Jim,
That sounds about right. The plate goes betweem the flexplate and the block. Remember to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate before seperating the tranny from the block. You don't want to disengage the torque converter from the trans.

Bobby

 

10/4 Bobby, thanks for the quick response.

 

I seem to remember having two locator pins on the bellhousing to center the flexplate.

Mine is a c-6 so might be diff.

 

No problem

I don't remember the block plates being bolted to the block....but then again, its been ages since I've had a Ford apart. Now that you mention it though I think I can kind of remember a couple of countersunk bolts holding it to the block.

The last plate I messed with I didn't take completely off the truck. I replaced the flywheel on a 1977 F-250 with a 460 and C6. I did that one withouth dropping the tranny and I never even looked at the block plate.

Bobby

 

Jim , the plate is installed as you say , between the flex plate and the block .
But it has no bolts of it's own , it is simply held there by the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the block .
Unfortunately it means the removal of the trans and flexplate to do so .

 

"B/B", I know what your talking about when you mentioned the dowels, unfortunately one of mine is missing. When lining up the trans, I cut the head off a 4" bolt, then cut a slot in it for a flat blade screwdriver. This allowed me to guide the tranny using it, then remove it after I got the first few bolt's in etc. Now that I know what has to be done (thanks to all of you.), I think it should go Ok. I've lost count but I think this is the seventh time I've had to pull this trans., its just getting kind of old at this point. I'm sure glad I made the trans. x-member removable, again with the help and advice of fellow members.

 

The dowel is important, Jim, and only costs 12 bucks delivered. I can't imagine a machine shop that doesn't have them, or the Ford dealer for that matter.

Dowel Pins Block to Bellhousing Ford Mopar | eBay

 

The plate should just hang on the dowels till you get it bolted back together

 

I would get one for sure, the dowels keep the transmission in alignment with the engine better than just bolts.. The bolts can let the alignment be off a few thousandths and cause wear on the front pump/converter bushings..

 

Thanks guys, I ordered the dowels off EBAY (thanks for the link Ross). I think the aluminum is broken at the dowel hole on my bell housing. I believe I put the broken piece in one of my nut and bolt drawers when I first got the trans, if so I may be able to JB Weld it back and clean it up, or if not maybe fill area in with JB and drill a new hole? If you guys don't think that's an ok fix, I could have a professional welder come over and fill it in with new aluminum and then grind and drill a new hole. I don't have much experience with JB Weld, but I here it recommended on the board now and then, so any comments on the JB Weld approach, or should it be welded?

 

The point of the dowels is that those are the only holes drilled with precision relative to the centerline of the crankshaft. They align the centerline of the transmission shafts accurately to the crankshaft. If the dowel can't be re-installed in its hole, somehow you need to get the hole re-established in the correct place, or replace the BH. On a C4 that's "fairly" easy, you'd need to completely drop the trans and pull out the t.c. (I know, you relish the thought of that!)

I'll be honest and say I've relied on just the BH bolts, and not had a problem, but on manual trans cars. It appears you're getting away with it now, so you have to decide if all that is worth it. With one good dowel your odds are better of getting away with no more work.

 

I took a quick pic of the BH, it looks as if there is enough of the original hole left to properly place and secure the new dowel (especially if I find the other piece), what do you think? I have another BH from my old set up, but your right Ross I don't relish pulling it out that far if I don't need to.LOL

 

That looks like it will work as-is, just don't hang the weight of the trans on the dowels. (easier said than done!)

 

Jim,
That broke piece is on the bell housing so you could always bolt on your good housing.
Like said on a small block, no bolts or screws hold the block plate, just squeezed between the engine and trans. You could always cut the bottom of the block plate crank hole so that it would slide down over the crank without removing the flexplate, it would not effect anything as it would still space out everything and index the starter. You would only be cutting out a couple inches right in the lower center at that point. It would not be effecting anything in a negative way and you would not have to pull the flex plate and trans out, just sliding it back.

 

Goooooood to hear LOL. I'm still going to try and find the piece that broke off and try securing it back in place. To Ross and everyone that has made this post an educational event. Thank you so much, your help is ALWAYS very appreciated.