ok guys, my shop has ~250sqft office and bathroom, built around late 50's time period. the walls are ok, but it has ceiling tiles that are made out of some sort of fiberboard stuff that are tile sized. its not suspended, there is 2x4 framing above it, although i don't think there is any plywood though. A lot of the ceiling has disintegrated and some of it is falling in, and i would like to replace them so i don't have stuff falling on my head, a slight worry about asbestos, and to make it more presentable.

I have thought about hanging drywall, which looks like the cheapest option. the biggest problem with that is that most of the work will be done by myself, with some occasional help, also I only have a little drywall experience.

I have also thought about getting some really thin plywood, cutting it to more manageable sizes and then either painting it for now, or covering with tile. I do intend to lay plywood across the top so it can be used for more storage

any suggestions you guys have would be appreciated

 

Do you have any pictures?

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Can you borrow a drywall lift?
Or rent one for a day? (about $35, and it never gets tired)
It's only about 8 4x8 sheets, or less if 12's fit your layout.
Taping is not too difficult.

I wouldn't paint plywood, but you can get prefinished smooth masonite 'tile board' for under $15 a sheet.
It has a bright white enamel surface and you can install it with white screws.
Voila, you're done!
No taping or painting overhead.

There will be seams, but it is a lot better looking than stains and holes.
I used this in the basement of my 1860's house because the joists were WAY too far off to hang sheetrock without strapping, and I didn't want to lose another inch.
So the ceiling is wavy, but there's not grit and dirt all over the laundry.

 

The easiest to do would be to go get sheets of Luan (1/4 Plywood) it comes in 4x8 sheets, some places have it in 4x4 sheets, and 1x2 furing strips.
The Luan is light and easy enough to hang yourself with a brad nailer or screws. You can paint it. Then the furring strips can be installed over all the joints, or you can do some sort of grid pattern 2'x2' 2'x4' whatever your heart desires.

 

They sell plastic channels and corners for that tempered hardboard product.
I couldn't be bothered to try and weave them over all the stuff in my way.

Thrifty White 32 sq. ft. Hardboard Panel Board-709106 at The Home Depot

 

thanks guys, here is what i'm up against.



you can see where my dad put up pieces of wood to hold it up where it is sagging







isn't this that tempered hardboard? who knows how old it is. the joist are 16" apart, so I don't think I'll have a problem hanging just about anything. and these panels are 16"x32".

according to home depots website, that thrifty white isn't supposed to be used for ceilings, but it appear to be the same as what i have, just with a coating on the one side.

i'm gonna check out the masonite, i think it would be easiest if i could replace it panel by panel. that way I don't have to tear the light down and evacuate everything out of the office. but if it comes down to doing something with a 4x8 panel, I think I will go with drywall.

 

Is there a reason to not use one of the cheaper suspended ceilings, grids and lay in tiles etc?

 

I would at least price the materials on this option before I committed to anything else. This may be the a good route to go.

 

I used 7/16 osb in my shop. Once its painted it looks like a heavy texture on sheetrock. I wanted something that could handle the occasional hit of a board since its a wood working shop.

 

Doesn't meet fire code, but it does make for walls that are easy to hang things on too!

 

I don't have to pass a fire cods at my location. If I did I would use 1/2 inch sheetrock. I will in my house. next door. I will have it finished by a pro. I can do small repairs to sheetrock. but no big jobs.