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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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  #16  
Old 01-15-2014, 06:36 PM
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Its not hard to replace a head, if you can handle basic hand tools and instructions you wouldn't have any trouble.

Easier than a motor swap yea however you should determine the condition of the remainder first.

How many miles on it?

How well did it run when it was last driven?

Maintenance records?
 
  #17  
Old 01-15-2014, 06:42 PM
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Miles it has about 80000 on it and when it last ran that's beyond me. Of course my brother in law said it ran good but started to act up had some people look at it and they where telling him to replace engine but I knew there had to be a cheaper route. And as far as maintenance no clue on that as well. Basically I'm starting from scratch so it's like a shot in the dark. I recently got my 1970 ford going and working well. So I figured I would tackle this truck to see if I could get it going and back In usable condition. Would local parts store have the valves( autozone or oriellys).
 
  #18  
Old 01-15-2014, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rezford87
Miles it has about 80000 on it and when it last ran that's beyond me. Of course my brother in law said it ran good but started to act up had some people look at it and they where telling him to replace engine but I knew there had to be a cheaper route. And as far as maintenance no clue on that as well. Basically I'm starting from scratch so it's like a shot in the dark. I recently got my 1970 ford going and working well. So I figured I would tackle this truck to see if I could get it going and back In usable condition. Would local parts store have the valves( autozone or oriellys).
Based on that and cost I'd wouldn't play around repairing the head or heads it has, I'd get one or both from a bone yard put em on and run it hope for the best.

That way if the motor is viable it'll run if not won't have that much into it having to start over from scratch. Get a couple good heads they'd be salvageable in the end regardless, swap them onto a short block for example.
 
  #19  
Old 01-15-2014, 08:36 PM
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Before we go crazy yanking parts off, how old is the gas?
 
  #20  
Old 01-15-2014, 08:44 PM
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The gas I believe was about a year old brother in law stated he had some type of stabilizer in the gas call heet I think anyways 5 gallons of fresh gas was put in about a week ago.
 
  #21  
Old 01-15-2014, 09:25 PM
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I'd check fuel pressure before you crack it open. If you didn't drain the old gas, some still got pumped through the system. I'd pull the fuel filter and check it, just to be on the safe side.
 
  #22  
Old 01-15-2014, 09:31 PM
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If all that looks good, you can also remove the valve cover, remove the coil to dist wire (so it doesn't start) and have an assistant crank the engine. If one of the valves isnt moving properly, it'll be pretty obvious.

If you do end up replacing the head, you'll need a gasket set, a torque wrench and perhaps new head bolts. a Chilton's would help you immensely for all the various torques and torquing order on the head.
 
  #23  
Old 01-15-2014, 09:38 PM
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Monteg0 thanks for the input I think I may try draining the gas out completely and then refill with fresh gas and see what happens. This truck has been frankinstined in the past it looks like so i will see what I can get done
 
  #24  
Old 01-15-2014, 09:54 PM
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No problem. BTW, I'd just pull the bed off for access, and after cleaning the area really well, take the sending unit out and use a fluid pump to get that gas out of there. Dropping the tank is a real PITA...
 
  #25  
Old 01-15-2014, 09:58 PM
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Monteg0 thanks for the FYI my brother in law cut a section out of the bed to access the fuel pump and all so all I need to do is unscrew 4 screws and I'll have access to fuel tank
 
  #26  
Old 01-15-2014, 10:06 PM
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That's handy, lol!
 
  #27  
Old 01-15-2014, 10:08 PM
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I call the truck frankly lol
 
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