Hi everyone, My name is Ska and I am the proud owner of the one and only Lemon, Haunted, Unrepairable, 93 F150 4x4, sporting a 302, with the E4od transmission. I bought this truck relying on the FORD name to be the only truck I would ever need. What a mistake. I have read 100's of threads here and other sites, and noone has a clue to why the code 629 is unclearable. I have done everything people have suggested. I replaced the trans. and torque converter. I replaced the trans. harness and MLPS. I have grenaded 2 used transmissions thank god for 90 day warranty. And now that I have put a NEW transmission in it is doing the same thing. Hard shift, slipping, not shifting. Then TADA it shifts perfectly smooth. I bypassed the cooler and ran a line in between trans lines thinking the cooler was restricting the flow. Does the same thing. I cannot afford to grenade 3000.00 more dollars of parts. I am about to cry over this truck but then I would have to punch myself in the face. There has to be someone on this friggin internet that has had this problem and fixed it before it cost them their house. Well whew that's about it for now until I find the right forum to post in, or should I just start a new forum for issues noone has ever had the right repair information to fix. Sorry but I'm so pissed I could spit, but being a lady and all I would have to reapply my lip gloss which I can't afford to buy do to this truck

 

Hi Ska, welcome to FTE!

Sorry to see you are having problems with your truck. Our members in the tech forums will be glad to offer their assistance and knowledge to help you get it running like you would like to see.

Stop by the SoCal chapter FTE has for the locals. You can find the chapter here,,,, California, Southern Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Good luck with your truck.

 

Welcome aboard!!!!!
Sounds like your purchase was someone else's problem dumped on you.
In a nutshell, the only thing I can think of is some sort of programming problem. If all else is new, something along the way is not communicating correctly.......Sorry, that's all I can think of. To me, if you can't get the code reader to clear the code, there's issues getting the signal to the control module. Same signal the tranny needs to correctly recieve signal to work/shift ect ect.

 

Hello Ska, I redirected your thread to the proper forum, where you'll find more answers and ideas to solve your problem. I'm sad to hear the trans are dying on yours, my E4OD lasted 200k mi and I wasquite happy with it... And I do remember reading about that code you mention sometime, I'll try to find the source, meanwhile I'll leave it to the guys to see if the can help you in any way, welcome to FTE!.

 

It would be interesting to know if the truck used to have a manual transmission, swapped for a auto trans, with out changing the ECU/ECM

just a thought

 

If I was to GUESS, I would say the TPS(Throttle Position Sensor). Believe it or not, it has a lot to do with the shift points of the transmission, even though it's on the engine. It actually does control the shift points of the transmission. This would only apply to E4OD and other electronically controlled transmissions. Now i said this was a GUESS.

 

Did you try manually locking the TCC, verify it will if given command from the computer?

629 both KOEO and CM returns, they are telling you the computer has no connection with the TCC solenoid. Its failing before being driven, road test is waste of time until correct the problem. Perhaps you already know/understand that though.

Tap into that circuit its a ppl-yel wire found under the hood, do so as near to computer as you can. Run it up into the cab enough slack to work with. Then get running down the road steady speed and any point after up shift to 3rd (2nd works too), ground out that wire to the dash brace or e brake pedal bracket.

You should feel it lock up and stay locked up until you take away that ground.

If it works it does lock then the trans and that circuit from between where you tapped into it down to the trans is fine. Problem is up stream of that point in that circuit or you have a failed computer.

If it does not lock up you need to tap into that circuit down closer to the trans, right at the trans bulkhead connector, try again. If still fails verify power to the TCC solenoid, odds it doesn't have any power to it yet others do are very slim, all solenoids in the pack share a common power source.

First verify it will lock manually locking it, than find out why when the computer should lock it it doesn't happen.

A LED light tied to that circuit on the computers side, wired in as so it will light if/when the computer gives the command to lock will also aid in finding the problem.

So say computer gives command you see the led light shows the computer doing what it supposed to, TCC will lock you know it will as manually grounding the wire locks it, shows it does what its supposed to. Yet it fails to lock when it should, both those conditions prove its nothing more than a bad connection between the two.

Easier if install a ON/auto/off switch in to that circuit to manually control lock up and with an LED light that signifies the computer has given the command to lock the TCC.

Temporary switch install under dash a minute for testing saves grounding end of a wire while running down the road.

Switch left in "off" position test computer, watch for light to light via computer command lock TCC any time after shift to 3rd.

 

this is a very good possibility.
check the VIN to see what transmission the truck left the factory with.

 

Well I woke up this morning and with lighter in hand went to my garage in search of a gas can. As I headed out to say good morning to my yard art truck, I decided to check this site for any responses. You guys made me have to slap myself. I am typing this through watery eyes because you have already shown me that help for my truck problem may be out there. George, thank you for the direction of contacting local members, Curtis thanks for reminding me to go by and punch out the previous owner, Encho for putting my first ranting post into the proper forum and not just tossing it into the abbyss, Danr1 for the information on how to actually perform the TCC lockup check that I can understand, except for adding a switch, but I can handle the grounding the wire, got a wiring diagram for the switch light set up? Thank you 88n94 for reminding me that I have noticed my rpm gauge falling off about 500 when my foot is around the same spot at cruising speed. I'll find the test for the TPS. And Chefsteele for taking the time to think out of the box and cover all possiblities but no it has the correct PCM I have had it out and opened it up and checked all the solder joints while I was in there. Okay I'm heading out with a little better outlook thanks to all your suggestions so far. FIRST STOP, CADILLAC RANCH TO FIND THE PO.

 

Welcome to FTE!!!

 

Diagram no not one handy but it goes like this,

Need a toggle switch with 3 positions.

Then its connected as so,

"Auto" position = circuit from computer to solenoid is passed through switch (just like no switch had been installed, circuit complete).

"On" position = circuit from solenoid connected to ground, zero continuity to the computer side (just like you would for example manually grounding the wire to the dash brace, wire clipped to computer side).

"Off" position = circuit between computer and solenoid is open (just like it would be if took pair of wire snips and clipped the wire running between the computer and solenoid).

Negative side of Led light is connected to the computer side of the TCC circuit and at the switch, feed power from any handy 12v source found under dash.

Computer commands TCC lock it provides ground path, when it does the light glows signifying it has done so.

Don't follow something there due to how I wrote it just ask, I'll re word or see if I can draw something up but that should give ya the general idea know what has to happen.

 

The problem is with three of the electrolytic capacitors in the PCM, rather than solder joints. The caps leak, spraying electrolyte on the board; after they leak they don't "capacitate" any more and the PCM loses its little silicon mind. (TBH most of the time it's the 4.9 I6 with this problem; still, it does happen to the V8 models as well.)

When you had the PCM out and the cover off, did you see any brown goo under the three caps? (If memory serves, they are a 10 uF 63V and two 47 uF 16V caps, all with radial leads.) If the goo is there, replace the caps and clean the goo off the board, looking for corrosion as you work on the board.

There are a plethora of photographs and writeups on this problem on site, should you need pictures and instructions. And lest I forget, welcome to the site.

 

Well I'm back and proud to say that being the daughter of a Ret.Special Forces/OPS with 5 brothers and UFC ringtime trumps a smart mouth on liquid courage. TKO. Don't get me wrong, I clean up quite well, and had to just a bit ago. Thanks Jeff for the welcome, DanR if you could see my face after reading your post, you would swear I was that deer just before you made contact with your bumper. Broke Vet, first off SIR, THANK YOU for your service in keeping me free in this United States of AMERICA, I salute you no matter what rank you are, Semper Fi. as for the caps on the PCM I did check those and they are damage free and within spec. I'm gonna play the girl card and ask for a drawing of the TCC manual switch hook-up, so please please show me . I used a remote starter switch and checked the fluid flow through the stock radiator trans cooler versus a clear piece of hose 3 feet long between the trans lines. I think cooler in radiator is clogged because it took a few seconds to get fluid out of the outlet side while the fluid filling the tubing was almost instant. What can I clean the radiator trans cooler with? Can I just bypass it into a aux cooler? If so can I just slide fuel line hose over flare on stock lines and hose clamp it? If I should not bypass stock cooler and cut the lines to install an aux. cooler also, will hoses clamps hold on the unflared stock lines where I cut them?, because I sure as hell can't flare that steel line. Okay I'm feelin frisky so to recap:
stock cooler clean with what?
bypass altogether?
hose over flared ends?
hose clamped to unflared lines?
At least you guys have gotten me interested in trying to fix my truck again, now how about getting me a little excited about it OMG

 

CRAP HEY DANR DO I SPLICE INTO THE WIRE OR CUT IT ?
IF I CUT IT WHICH END DO I GROUND OUT?

 

Gonna have to cut it, wait till daylight tomorrow I'll post back include some pic's give you more to go on that way I'd think.