Looking at buying my first truck and need some help with Towing. We're planning to get an RV in a year or 2 and I want it to do it right the first time!

Looking at a 2011 F150 Supercrew Ecoboost with Max Tow. According to the Payload on the door jamb it's 1850 lbs and Ford says it can tow 11,200 lbs.

Now we've been looking at RV's for a few years now and like these:
Jayco 33RLDS
Jayco 26RKS
Lacrosse 323RST
Lacrosse 327RES
Prowler 30PRLS
Outback 316RL

All have gross weights between 8,400 lbs and 10,300 lbs. and about 30-36ft. I worked up a spreadsheet based on 10 and 15% tongue weight and it looks like at 10% we're good as we have 820 and 1010 payload left. At 15% it gets a lot closer and in some cases only 300 lbs.

Is this doable and with a Weight Distributing hitch would it make sense or should we be looking elsewhere?

Also the #'s I came up with on young weight are much different that the RV brochures. Is that normal?

 

I think you will get a lot of input on your post because this type question comes up on this forum often. Here is where it gets tough.

First manufacturer's weights are often not accurate and the only way to know for sure what your weight will be is to put it on a scale, which is exactly what many of us do.

Secondly, I think a 10% tongue weight is unrealistically low and closer to 15% would be a better figure in terms of balancing your rig.

You also have to remember you have a payload capacity for your truck which includes not only tongue weight, but also you, the family, the fuel, etc.

If I were just starting out and didn't have the truck yet, I would go to a 3/4 ton. If you have the 1/2 ton already, I would stay as light as I comfortably could and remember, distributing bars do not change any weight rating on your truck, just how it carries the weight.

I'll stop here and let others jump in.

Steve

 

That's what I figured. But would it be safe to assume that the GVWR is at least accurate? I know I'm basing my calculations off that as I think that's the absolute maximum. The real # lies somewhere in the middle but most likely near GVWR.

Which makes me confused - the weight listed in the brochures for tongue weight is not anywhere near the "dry weight" * .1 or .15 and is less than the GVWR times the same.

Where do they get these #'s from?

Yeah - luckily it's me and the wife and a 65 lb dog. I'm thinking most "stuff" for camping will just go in the trailer (clothes, food, etc)..

Thanks. The only thing I don't like about the SD is it's big (I drive a Taurus) and at some point the truck may end up becoming my Daily Driver and with an almost 80 miles a day commute (37 each way) the lack of fuel economy would kill me (I think). It seems like all the SD's around here are either well over 100k or lifted and tuned, etc. Don't want those hassles.

I think I understand with the WD hitch and it's one of those things that since in most payload calcs we're at 300-600 lbs of extra payload at GVCR of the trailer and 15% tongue "shifting" a hundred pounds or so back to the trailer may be OK?

There always is looking at lighter RV's - any suggestions that would work with the F150 EB Max Tow?

Thanks!

 

I am really glad you are giving this serious thought! I am not sure how to address the weight issues without actually doing some weighing. some manufacturers use an average, some actually weigh every unit and their weights are spot on, but I would never assume that.

The dilemma here, as I see it, is you, like most folks want gas mileage when not towing, but still want a pretty good size RV for camping. You can shift weight back and forth and you may well be able to squeak in under the ratings for your intended truck. The issue will always be how close you want to come to the max rating. What I have always found is the closer you are to the max rating of the truck, the more things like wind and passing tractor-trailers move you around, although in my opinion, this has improved dramatically over the years.

A question that often gets asked is, if you want to RV, do you buy the RV first and then match the truck to it, or do you buy the truck and then buy a suitably sized trailer?

If you have your heart set on a F150, you may want to work with a dealer who will help obtain actual weights. If you are a serious buyer, it is not unreasonable to ask to weight something before you buy.

Two suggestions, first if anyone on this forum is towing with the same model you are considering, it would really help if they would chime in. Secondly, also post in the F!50 forum and see what owners there have to say. Continue to gather feedback from multiple sources and you will do fine.

I do not recommend specific manufacturers, but can you manage with a 26-27 foot rather than a 30-36?

Steve

 

Man, you do not want to tow a 30 ft trailer, 5er or bumper pull with a 1/2 ton truck, period. You might get the numbers to work for you but I doubt it, and even if you do it will be a very uncomfortable situation.

The best advice I can give you is to buy the trailer first, then get a truck to match. I will also add the following, never believe what an RV or truck salesman tells you about towing weights. Never believe what the weight tags in the trailer say, weigh it on the scale the way it will be loaded for the trip.

There are some after market things you can do to the truck to let you tow a bigger trailer safely and comfortably. Air bags, over load springs and upgraded wheels and tires come to mind.

I would also add that spending time on these forums will help you learn. The numbers are confusing and people who have been doing this for years will disagree about what means what.

Also know that there is no law enforcement waiting to weigh your rig and impound it for being over some weight unless you are a commercial vehicle. That does not apply to a truck so overloaded as to be a highway hazard.

It is important you pair the truck and trailer in a manner that will let you and your passenger enjoy the trip. There are trailers, both 5ers and bumper pulls that a half ton can tow but they are not 30 footers. At least I don't know of any.

As a general rule you can tow a lot more trailer in a 5th wheel configuration. You give up some of the cargo capacity in the truck bed but will be able to handle a lot more trailer.

Anyway, we will look for you out in the campgrounds soon, it's a great way to travel and see this wonderful country, good luck.

 

Thanks everyone for the input!

I'm definitely taking this serious as we can't afford to make a mistake (I don't want to buy something today and then take a bath on trade to re-buy). And fortunately or unfortunately, I'm one of those methodical people who needs to make 1000% sure it will be fine. And I also am one that takes anything anyone trying to sell you something says with a grain of salt. Too many "he said it would" or not and it's either ignorance or outright lies.

I've posted this on quite a few forums and the responses seem to be all about the same - bigger truck for those RV's. I think that's what the #'s were telling me but with all the conflicting data I was thinking I was missing something.

Really don't want to go up to 3/4 ton so I think we're going to go back through the brochures from the RV show and see if we like any of the smaller floor plans.

 

Good luck!

 

I have always been an advocate of putting the truck as load on the scales. I prefer catscales since they will give you the steer and drive axle weights independently. You can find them all over the place at truck stops.

If you don't have the truck already then as Stanley suggested, zero in the on the trailer and then get the truck that is for the trailer.

 

My sense, from reading the OP's posts, is a F150 is in the cards, so that may be what makes it to the scales first. Then maybe a smaller trailer is in the cards. I also favor CAT scales. Cheap, easy to use, and easy to find.

The real problem here, if industry stats are correct, is RVers tend to make a transformation from smaller to larger units and tend to outgrow their tow vehicle over time. If the you end up buying a bigger truck in a few years, which is what often happens, any saving in fuel the first few years of RVing with a smaller truck gets wiped out with the purchase of the larger truck.

There is really no simple answer when the norm is ownership of multiple RVs overtime!

Steve

 

While the scale is the best way to go, I am confident that the sticker in the trailer itself (for my trailer anyway) is fairly accurate. When I was planning to buy I was going by brochure weights on the Forest River website. The sticker on the TT itself states a GVWR, unloaded weight, and cargo weights that are quite a bit lower than what the brochure said. This tells me that they weigh each individual TT at the factory and slap the sticker on there. If the law dogs go by anything, I assume they would be looking at the weight sticker on the TT if they pull you over. Personally I am figuring 12-13% for TW.

 

Weight will not be a factor for non-commercial tows unless you are involved n an accident. Some owners have reported stickers are off 1,000-1,500 pounds. Some are also spot on.

If you read the statement on every industry brochure you will find manufacturers accept no liability for anything in the brochure and maintain the right to make running changes at any time.

You may be correct in your assumptions, but you also may be wrong. Only the scale knows for sure. I have done inspections with owners where the dealer has to agree to have the unit weighed, before the customer signed anything.

12%-13% is certainly acceptable and historically used to be the recommended figure in the industry.

Just a few of my thoughts.

Steve

 

Lots to think about!

Weighing the truck won't be an issue - we live in a huge trucking town (Carlisle, PA) and there are about 5 truck stops and I think 3 CAT scales in town. Is it truly as simple as weighing the truck and subtracting that from the CVWR on the door? And if I take stuff out (like maybe the step rails as I think they may not be needed) I get that back as payload?

Since unless a miracle happens it will be the wife, me, and the dog for the future I think that we can easily control the packing. We used to pack everything but the kitchen sink and we would have the kitchen sink!

The plan is to get the truck, pay it off in under 3 years and in a year or 2 look at an RV as I'd rather have the truck almost paid off. Most likely keep that combo until we retire. Then the plan may be to get something bigger and go full time and see this great country.

I just can't get over how even the stickers on the door for unloaded weight are "allowed" to be wrong! Maybe it's just my analytical side (I tend to over-analyze everything) but I'd rather have accurate #'s than "close enough". Especially when piloting close to 20,000 lbs (truck + trailer) down the road @ 60 MPH.

 

see if you can borrow the truck for a road test and then take It to the scales.

Yes you are taking the door cert limits and subtracting what you came up with on the scale.

 

It is not so much that anyone allows it, they just down play it. Believe me, things are a 1000% better now than they were a couple of decades back when the posted numbers were almost pure fantasy. The industry is very weight sensitive as one manufacturer was put completely out of business due to a class action suit having to deal solely with overloading the axles.

Following a review article I wrote on one manufacturer's campers in which I quoted the GVW of their trailers and fifth wheels, the manufacturer went nuts and demanded a retraction. He stated my article was going to confuse "experienced RVers" by causing them to think their trailers and fifth wheels weighed too much. Their advertising at the time claimed everything they made was half-ton towable! As I pointed out to the publisher, the figures in my article were taken directly from the manufacturer's website and the manufacturer did not argue with that. They just did not want them noted in a consumer publication. Bizarre, but an absolutely true story.

Steve

 

You mention a "first truck" and a rather large trailer.......Your driving a Taurus now. Do you have any friends, family or co-workers who own a trailerable boat, or some other decent sized trailer, lets say something 15'-20' overall trailer length, with tandem axles? Ive owned mostly full sized trucks now for over 30 years, and ive towed assorted 14' to 20' boats, a couple utility trailers, flat towed an old Jeep and Scout a few times. Finally in the last 7 or 8 years, mostly with my Dodge Diesel ive done quite a bit of towing. i now own a 16' Flatbed, tandem axle car trailer, and a 2 horse, slant load bumper pull horse trailer. Last year, i logged at least 5000 miles towing these two trailers, i was moving and using primarily the car trailer with various boxes, totes, furniture etc. It also gets used now at least twice a month for hauling loads of hay for our 4 horses, and for building materials, etc needed on our 3 acre mini ranch, and ive FINALLY gotten super comfortable, and pretty competent driving, maneuvering, backing, and parking the trailer. the tow vehicle is a heavy 3/4 ton, 140" wheelbase, 4wd diesel that weighs at least 7000 lbs with a camper shell and all the junk i carry, its got a LOT more torque than that little V6 Ecoboost( horse power may not be too different, though) ive got much bigger brakes, heavier frame, suspension etc......Your post SUGGESTS you havent towed much( if im wrong, Let me know!) but it sounds like your considering buying what many people would consider the minimum for what would be called "serious" towing duties, and your also considering a pretty big trailer???
Your Taurus is what 14' long, im guessing?
a 30' trailer, hanging off the end of a 16' or 17' truck.........Your jumping from driving a "compact" all the way up to something as big as many commercial truck drivers pull down the highway! PLEASE dont take my remarks as dismissive, insulting or suggestive that you cant learn to drive all this perfectly well, and for all i know, you may well have towing experience, but you are looking at a pretty serious rig here.........I would appreciate it if a guy like RV Tech would give his personal viewpoint here, and correct me if needed!