This is in the front drivers side wheel. It happens when turning sharply at very slow speed . The wheel feels like it's loose but it's not. The steering also has had a lot more "play" then usual.

 

Just a guess but when was the last time you checked your wheel bearings? Bad wheel bearings can cause this. And I've seen one instance where there was so much grease packed in one that the bearing never made a noise till it was just about ready to fall apart.

 

Agree a wheel bearing is very likley. Also it could be slop in the steering joints. I like to check first with the wheels on ramps. Get a helper to turn the wheel left/right and check for un-wanted movement. Then jack it up and check again by pulling/pushing the wheel up down and side to side.

 

Another thing it could be are bad ball joints. How are the tires wearing?

 

Wear is a bit more on the outer edge.

 

Jack it up, grab the top and bottom (6&12) of the tire, play in and out can be wheel bearing and or ball joints. As some one else moves it, you look very close to see the ball joint movement. Or reach in there and you might be able to feel it.

In and out play of the whole tire and wheel is a wheel bearing.

Grab tire L&R (3&9) play there can be tie rods. Insp the rag joint, trac bar mount points, radius arms bushings.

Loot at the steering box where the pitman are connects for play, it you suspect or discover it internal steering box play, Redhead is the way to go, NOT a fresh paint job parts store one.

Might a well buy a hub socket and a Chilton or Haynes manual while you are at the parts store, getting wheel bearings and grease.

Don't forget hand cleaner and shop rags.

 

Thanks for the advice . Is there anything I can do, without having to jack it up ? I injured my shoulder and only have limited use of that arm . Visually are there things I can check ?

 

Have a friend or neighbor help you out.......77&79 is right on! keep in mind if you drive this much, its only going to get worse. If one of these components lets go at speed, you may end up with more injured than a shoulder. ANYTHING related to, or associated with front end suspension or steering is serious stuff.

 

Other than drive it not really, you really need to have have to get the front end (tires) off the ground to ck the items mentioned.

You can do it with out, but its hard it not impossible to tell the condition of the ball joints and wheel bearings with weight on the tires.

You are going to need a buddy to move the steering wheel anyway, can't he run a jack?

Best call is to limit the amount of miles on it till you are healed up enough to do the work yourself, or pay a local to maybe drag you over the coals on it.

Are you a Cali FTE member, maybe that is a way to get someone to lend a hand? You guys are so big, the chapter is split in half.

And like iggybob44 said, steering and stopping components are NOTHING to let go bad. The rest will leave you stranded on the road side, the important stuff could leave you crashed and upside down on the road side.

 

I will take your advice and get someone to help me asap . Answer to the question am I a Cali- Chapter member is, not yet...Thanks for the info everybody!!!

 

I read a few northern California threads and seen "San Jose" mentioned so I am guessing that is your chapter....here is the link.

Northern chapter California, Northern Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

If they are not then there is always the southern chapter, I do not know the dividing line for the chapters.

Southern chapter California, Southern Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

On this subject, how hard are the front bearings to replace? I've got the same issue on mine and it squeels when turning, so I'm pretty sure the bearing is done. If they aren't bad, I may replace both sides. F250 4x4

 

Brian which truck? The bearings are easy, it the bearing race that is a little difficult to press back in. You can punch and hammer them out of the hub rotor assembly from either side thru the hub hole.

Its getting them pressed back in correctly and fully seated is the issue, I would say machine shop time to get it right or buy a bottle jack press from Harbor Freight, Cummings or Grisly and get a short piece of solid steel pipe to fit the outer diameter of the race face and hub hole and press them in yourself.

Its been years, but we use to bang them out bang them in with a big brass drift pin. Do one side might as well do the other and get new inner hub rubber/metal seals. They tap on the back side. Do a good bearing repack and might as well replace the front brakes since you are that far into it.

 

my newest f250 4x4. I think I'll hit up my dad to help, he's a mechanic by trade and will know what to do. Looks like the bearings are cheap, I just hope the hubs aren't as bad as my 60's were. :P

I've replaced them on my 75 monte carlo, and aside from the lockouts, they look pretty similar.

 

F250 piece of cake, get the hub socket and make it easy, if the rotors are ok keep on trucking if not turn them or replace them. Hubs bad ouch in the wallet I am sure.

I had to buy 2 new rotors a long time 100+each and still had to drive lug bolts out and back in.

Here is a little tid bit on info for you and the SC front D60.

This one is for those of us with Dana 60/70's. The usual spindle nut set of 3 pieces (a nut, washer with tabs to fold over, and another nut) usually work alright, but there is an easier way to go. Ford part # E8TZ-1A124-A is all three of those in one. It is a one piece ratcheting style locknut that all you have to do is torque down and go. It takes a 4 prong style spindle nut socket. I have them on my front 60 and rear 70 and they work great. They cost about $15 apiece from my local Ford dealership.