well the clutch kit was wrong. Now no one can find one local. Rock auto has one that should work. Has anyone used one?

 

Ordered the clutch kit from Rockauto. AMS AUTOMOTIVE Part # 07518 under 1951 FORD F3 3.7L 226cid on their site. Also ordered new pressure plate bolts ARP 150-2201. Finally had some time Saturday evening to get it installed.

Fly wheel installed


Clutch and Pressure plate installed


Bell housing installed

 

Buddy came over today and we got the 226 installed.




Now to figure out the master cylinder. I'm going to keep the drums but would like to up grade to a dual master and relocate it under the hood. Any advise?

 

Putting the m/c on the firewall means converting to hanging pedals. Or at least, the brake pedal. It might be awkward having a hanging brake and through the floor clutch. That's your call. For a replacement dual-circuit m/c, I'd choose one from a circa~1969 F-100 with manual drum brakes. It should be sized pretty close to work with the stock brakes.

 

Crap I didn't think Abt the pedals...is there a dual m/c that will fit in the stock spot under the cab?

 

If it were me, I'd stick with the m/c I listed above and make my own adapter to make it work.

 

Yes hanging the peddles are the hardest part. But if you
can find them there are a ton of threads on here dealing
with just that. Use advance search or Google.

 

If you hang the peddles with a Power Booster you might be able to mount a hydraulic cylinder for the clutch and a slave cylinder if it would clear the booster on the firewall.
I had old Ford PU peddles in my 34 Chev. but no power cylinder booster to worry about. Thanks,
TractormanBill

 

I would keep the master cylinder under the floor. Adding booster, master cylinder, etc. makes the fire wall really busy and obviously modified.

 

Has anyone used one of these? Looks like it should bolt right on.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191416976373?item=191416976373&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
I'm also looking for a radiator.

 

Got the radiator frame, rear end, drive shaft and rear frame primed and painted this weekend. Almost ready for new brake lines and wiring.

 

Those aftermarket booster/MC combos will work but they are NOT a direct install into our F2/F3 trucks. I had to modify the mounting flange quite a bit, the bolt pattern for a F1 is different. At least it was on my Long Beach plant built truck. at least one other member with an F3 has said the same thing and had to modify to fit. also keep in mind that the inspection hole in the cab floor will no longer be of use since the MC is now further away. With the cab off the truck you can fill the reservoir, or you have to cut a different hole in the floor and it may interfere with your seat track.


Tom

 

I'm going to rebuild the original master cylinder with a kit from NPD. Hopefully i will get it the motor running this weekend and maybe even get the brakes hooked up.

 

Well i didn't get the motor running but i did get a couple things done. I got the radiator cleaned and mounted. Made gaskets for the water pump and thermostat housing and installed those with a new thermostat. Pulled the front drum brakes off they are pretty scared up not sure they are going to be able to turn them....but i tapped the wheel studs out any ways.

I also order a new master cylinder from rock auto and wheel studs. Picked up a 12v coil on Saturday. Debating on which wiring kit to order. any recommendations. There are really no wires that are useable so a kit should make it clean and easy to pull since the cab is the only body part on the frame.

 

i have been reading up on wiring kits for a while. I have decided on a rebel kit. i just need to decide if i want a 8 circuit or 9+3 circuit unit. about $20 swing in price. the 8 circuit can be had for about $200 delivered.