I have been thinking about ignition and wiring ...a lot. Some of the stock wiring is pretty sketchy some from previous owners and others from little hairy things with teeth.

Since 'factory correct' is something that, in my books, will always get trumped by "simple and reliable", I am going to do the GM HEI module / TFI coil conversion. I just happen to have a couple of TFI coils sitting around, so it should be a quick and easy swap.

I have a GM style big cap HEI on the Mustang. Since I locked out the timing, it has been awesome even when the rotor button in the cap was almost completely shredded at the end of DW12. I don't think the giant cap style would fit the truck very well. With the factory intake, it would be a tight fit if it would fit at all.

I think I will just make a plate that will bolt to the empty spot on the front of the passenger cyl head that I can mount the TFI coil, HEI module and a relay triggered by the ignition switch. All neat and clean and easy to get to. Seems like a popular swap in the Jeep world.

 

Interesting. I've never seen that one before. Post pics once you mount everything.

 

The nice thing about using the GM module is that they are readily available at any parts store. I've seen guys cut open a scrap ford duraspark ignition module and mount the GM module inside it so it looks ford.

 

very nice looking truck. I used a big coil hei dizzy on my super camper special. You need to use the dented water neck and probably put a big spacer plate on the carb, or a big tube to hold the air filter housing up out of the way. My setup is a little different with a taller intake manifold. I like the simple setup with the hei. keep up the good work jp3.

 

Started messing with the conversion last night. I dug around and found a whole set of HEI style plug wires and a repurposed aluminum sign to cut down and use as a mount.


The GM module will mount below the coil and will keep the wiring very neat and minimal.


The whole setup will bolt to the passenger cylinder head and should get plenty of air flow from the engine fan. The heater hose has to bend around the coil a bit, but I think it will be fine. I suppose I could rotate the fitting and make the hose go up and over. Time will tell.


Tonight though, I am going to dive into the rubber brake line (all 3) & rear wheel cylinder replacement project. Not real excited about it, but it has to be done.

 

Yeah, I just did my Drums and cylinder's and I wasn't very excited either to do it so I know how you Feel..... but once it is all done you feel a whole lot better knowing that your truck will Stop

 

Wow. First experience with brakes on floating axles. Giant pain in the butt, but the wheel cylinders and rear hose are swapped. Drums and shoes look good, and man, those drums are heavy! Surprisingly, I only had to disconnect the parking brake and remove 1 spring in order to wiggle the wheel cylinders out. Very happy I didn't have to disassemble all of it!

I replaced both front rubber lines and while I was there I took the angle grinder and clearanced those two bolt bosses on the calipers that made me have to use a spacer on the front wheels. It didn't take a whole of grinding to fix it and I am much much happier without the spacers.

I also worked a little on the ignition replacement. I put on the new cap and sorted through the plug wires I had to find 8 that fit properly. Then I did a little of the wiring, but did not have time to do it all. Maybe I can do that tomorrow and bleed the brakes.

 

That's good you did not have to disassemble everything because it's a little tricky to get it all back together springs and all... Yes... those drums are Heavy, you have to be careful you don't misjudge their weight or you won't have any toes left Take your time with the wiring and ignition so you make sure you go through everything right.... as far as bleeding the brakes it is easier when you have someone else putting pressure on the brakes for you while you bleed them but I'm sure you knew that already...... Good luck

 

Do you mean full-floating?

 

Man, thought I was alone. Can't wait for the day that I don't have that feeling... Hopefully, that day will come.

Really enjoyed my Sunday morning coffee reading this thread, Great job! Makes me feel better about my 69. I guess it's a road a lot of you guys have been down, but this is my first time with an old Ford truck. Reading this made me feel better. Looking out the window at the 69 and I'm smiling again.

 

Maybe. I always thought a full floater had axle shafts that were splined on both ends. Whatever.

1977cj5 - thanks! That's why I like doing these build threads. It's fun to share your struggles and triumphs with folks who "get it", because Lord knows my wife does not get it. Haha. They are really fun to go back and read and remember all the things you went through building a car or truck.

 

Yea, your F250 axles are full-float. Your Mustang axles are semi-float. I'm sure there are exceptions but the axles that have splines on both ends are typically referred to as 2 piece axles.

I agree with you. I enjoy posting up what I've done and so forth. Your build looks good.

 

Got the relay for the ignition wired up. 12v from the battery and the relay is switched via the ignition post on the starter relay. This evening, unless I have other stuff to do, I might get the rest of the wiring done and the ignition installed. Just need to run a tach lead and bolt the plate to the head and connect a couple of wires and it should be good to go.

 

Yes sir.... you are not alone when it comes to holding your breath every time you take the old Ford out.... LOL... That is enjoyable, sitting drinking coffee and checking your ride out Take Care.....

 

Cool !!!! The Relay is important... so small but plays a big part...