help please
#1
help please
I have 2 issues with my 97 powerstroke.
1) my heater barely works. It blows lookwarm air. The top radiator hose is warm, but cool enough to touch even when running at normal temps. My temp gauge fluctuates wildly from the A in normal to the O in normal.
2) my truck randomly dies with lack of fuel. I had this issue right before thanksgiving and then put in an inline electric pump out of a 1999 powerstroke. This got the truck up and running again. Today, Im running down the road, and then it just died without fuel again. I turned the key on and let the pump run until the bowl filled up and then the truck fired up and ran fine. I have noticed declining power over the last few days. Im not sure what to look for. Im going to replace the fuel filter again. I do run a mix of biodiesel and regular diesel. Any ideas?
Thanks all.
1) my heater barely works. It blows lookwarm air. The top radiator hose is warm, but cool enough to touch even when running at normal temps. My temp gauge fluctuates wildly from the A in normal to the O in normal.
2) my truck randomly dies with lack of fuel. I had this issue right before thanksgiving and then put in an inline electric pump out of a 1999 powerstroke. This got the truck up and running again. Today, Im running down the road, and then it just died without fuel again. I turned the key on and let the pump run until the bowl filled up and then the truck fired up and ran fine. I have noticed declining power over the last few days. Im not sure what to look for. Im going to replace the fuel filter again. I do run a mix of biodiesel and regular diesel. Any ideas?
Thanks all.
#2
If your temp gauge is all over the place like that, then I would flush the system and look for some kind of blockage. Mine stays really steady and always has. A little variation in the winter depending on outside temp, but not like that. It sounds like your t-stat might be sticking. Have you ever replaced it?
#4
#5
I did not remove the mechanical pump. I havent had the time to bypass the pump completely. I didnt use a kit. Just put the pump in the sending line in front of the diverter valve and wired it into a wire that is only on when the ignition is on. Dont remember exactly which wire.
I cleared out the filter in the return line and then made sure the return line is clear. I also opened up the check valve a little as the biodiesel tends to thicken around freezing... I run a 20% pump diesel and 80% biodiesel in the winter.
I cleared out the filter in the return line and then made sure the return line is clear. I also opened up the check valve a little as the biodiesel tends to thicken around freezing... I run a 20% pump diesel and 80% biodiesel in the winter.
#6
The first thing you need to do is check the fuel pressure at the regulator. You're looking for +/-65 PSI at the FPR, which has a schrader valve on the side of it (on the driver side of the fuel bowl). You may also want to check the FPR screen inside the fuel bowl to see if it is all clogged up with gunk (most of them are).
I don't really see how the electric pump could push the fuel through the mechanical pump if it is still inline, and I think it's possible that having that restriction in the system could have killed the pump. The stock mechanical pump is a 2 stage pump with a low pressure diaphragm side, and a high pressure piston side and if the electric pump is just boosting the pressure to the (apparently failing) mechanical pump, there is a good chance that you haven't solved the original issue, but just masked it by temporarily boosting the pressure coming into a weak pump.
This is not meant as an insult, but these fuel systems are complicated enough as it is and adding a pump into the mix *****-nilly isn't going to cut it. If you need a long term fix, you need to either do a full-on conversion or replace the mechanical pump and eliminate the electric one. I've experimented with the alt-fuels some myself and I can tell you from experience that cutting corners isn't the way to do use these alt-fuels successfully. That being said, I know that plenty of guys run B100 in their trucks with the stock fuel system in it and it works well.
I don't really see how the electric pump could push the fuel through the mechanical pump if it is still inline, and I think it's possible that having that restriction in the system could have killed the pump. The stock mechanical pump is a 2 stage pump with a low pressure diaphragm side, and a high pressure piston side and if the electric pump is just boosting the pressure to the (apparently failing) mechanical pump, there is a good chance that you haven't solved the original issue, but just masked it by temporarily boosting the pressure coming into a weak pump.
This is not meant as an insult, but these fuel systems are complicated enough as it is and adding a pump into the mix *****-nilly isn't going to cut it. If you need a long term fix, you need to either do a full-on conversion or replace the mechanical pump and eliminate the electric one. I've experimented with the alt-fuels some myself and I can tell you from experience that cutting corners isn't the way to do use these alt-fuels successfully. That being said, I know that plenty of guys run B100 in their trucks with the stock fuel system in it and it works well.
#7
The first thing you need to do is check the fuel pressure at the regulator. You're looking for +/-65 PSI at the FPR, which has a schrader valve on the side of it (on the driver side of the fuel bowl). You may also want to check the FPR screen inside the fuel bowl to see if it is all clogged up with gunk (most of them are).
I don't really see how the electric pump could push the fuel through the mechanical pump if it is still inline, and I think it's possible that having that restriction in the system could have killed the pump. The stock mechanical pump is a 2 stage pump with a low pressure diaphragm side, and a high pressure piston side and if the electric pump is just boosting the pressure to the (apparently failing) mechanical pump, there is a good chance that you haven't solved the original issue, but just masked it by temporarily boosting the pressure coming into a weak pump.
This is not meant as an insult, but these fuel systems are complicated enough as it is and adding a pump into the mix *****-nilly isn't going to cut it. If you need a long term fix, you need to either do a full-on conversion or replace the mechanical pump and eliminate the electric one. I've experimented with the alt-fuels some myself and I can tell you from experience that cutting corners isn't the way to do use these alt-fuels successfully. That being said, I know that plenty of guys run B100 in their trucks with the stock fuel system in it and it works well.
I don't really see how the electric pump could push the fuel through the mechanical pump if it is still inline, and I think it's possible that having that restriction in the system could have killed the pump. The stock mechanical pump is a 2 stage pump with a low pressure diaphragm side, and a high pressure piston side and if the electric pump is just boosting the pressure to the (apparently failing) mechanical pump, there is a good chance that you haven't solved the original issue, but just masked it by temporarily boosting the pressure coming into a weak pump.
This is not meant as an insult, but these fuel systems are complicated enough as it is and adding a pump into the mix *****-nilly isn't going to cut it. If you need a long term fix, you need to either do a full-on conversion or replace the mechanical pump and eliminate the electric one. I've experimented with the alt-fuels some myself and I can tell you from experience that cutting corners isn't the way to do use these alt-fuels successfully. That being said, I know that plenty of guys run B100 in their trucks with the stock fuel system in it and it works well.
Also, it's fairly dangerous to have an electrical pump without a failsafe. If you get into an accident it will keep pumping diesel fuel everywhere if the accident cause line breakage. I hear burning to death is not very comfortable.
I ran a tank of B95 in my truck and it actually ran better afterwards.
Don't forget to check your CPS... that can also cause an engine to stop but my bet is on the fuel pump.
Richard
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#9
Here is a diagram that shows the stock system.
This is why a kit is needed to convert to the electric pumps. You have to redesign the way the system functions so you're not running 70PSI through the filters (which will probably result in little to no real filtration).
If you're interested in doing a lot of the conversion yourself, there is a e-fuel design out there that has been termed (I'm not kidding here) the "Tightwad Mod" because it reuses much of the stock system (including the regulator) but it is still more involved than just bypassing the mechanical pump.
Here is a link for that if you're interested in going that route.
The "Tightwad mod" Fuel Bowl delete and regulated return for peanuts. - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Sorry if I come across as being harsh, but it's not as simple as just bypassing the mechanical pump. I'm just trying to prevent you from messing up your truck.
#11
Richard
EDT: again... not to be harsh... but the old saying applies... Do it right or you will be doing it again, or worse.
#12
Thank you for all your help. I appreciate the warnings. I was unaware of potential issues of just bypassing the mechanical fuel pump. I will do some reading and see what I can do this weekend. Unfortunately, this is my DD and my backup truck is waiting on repairs as well. It got COLD ... ugh. I will get one or the other fixed this weekend. I will update when I can.
#13
Thank you for all your help. I appreciate the warnings. I was unaware of potential issues of just bypassing the mechanical fuel pump. I will do some reading and see what I can do this weekend. Unfortunately, this is my DD and my backup truck is waiting on repairs as well. It got COLD ... ugh. I will get one or the other fixed this weekend. I will update when I can.
Richard