Well the passenger side front rotor is toast along with the caliper. How hard id it to do and where would I get directions?

 

Not knowing how many tools and such you have makes it hard to answer, but the process shouldn't be very difficult. Might be a little tough getting the studs out of the old one if you haven't ever done it before. The caliper will need bleeding if you haven't done that it is a process that is important to get right as your stopping is on the line.

 

Use a breaker bar to get the big bolts out then don't let it hang by the brake line, you can damage it internally. When you pull the pads out, lay them down so you remember how they go back in. Its not hard, its harder trying to explain it, LOL

 

The inner pad on the passenger side looks totally gone? i was told that I might as well replace the brake lines, bearings and seals while I am in there, which I think may be a good idea? How long of a job is it approx and where do IO get the parts and socket?

 

Replacing lines and stuff is a good idea it just depends on how much you want to spend. I don't know that I would replace the bearings unless there was some reason to at this point - play or noise or slop. The grease seals aren't worth replacing unless they are leaking or cracked or something. If it was me, I would replace the pads and rotor and only replace the caliper if I thought it was stuck or something. I wouldn't replace the lines unless I needed to because there was something wrong with them. To replace the rotor and pads (make sure you replace pads on both sides of course) is probably a couple hours if you haven't done too much of it before. You can get to where you can replace pads alone in about 15 minutes once you've done it a few times. I use a piece of pipe over my ratchet as a breaker bar and there aren't any real special tools I am aware of.

 

Here's a youtube video that might help. Wrong year but it will give you an idea of what you are going to be up against.

 

If you do decide to do seals, if the rear is similar to the front (I havnt had to do seals in the front on any of these trucks yet) theres a special socket you might need (or you can use a punch), Im sure someone will correct me if im wrong

 

Gentlemen, I am as we speak trying to change my rotor on the passenger side and it isn't like the new trucks, you have to remove the 4x4 hub to get the rotor off. i'm down to what looks like a threaded nut and Square key and the key is in there with very little to grab on to

Advise please I need it!

 

To get the hub but off you need a special socket. Depending on which hubs you have, the auto hubs have a hex nut with a locking key and the manual hubs have a nut then lock washer and another nut that will be torqued to about 200 ft lbs. The manual hub nuts have four square openings where a special socket gets into and allow you turn it.

Most auto parts stores will have the socket you need.

 

You can either buy the socket you need or Autozone has them in their "loan-a-tool" program.

I don't know about the 200 ft/lb torque number either. I know that is the case on some smaller axles, but the torque spec on these seems to be in the neighborhood of about 50-70 ft/lb. I just took mine apart this weekend and they weren't anywhere near to 200ft/lbs tight; I could buy the 50-70 number though. Here is a link to the D60 bible from Pirate 4x4. There is more info in there than you'll ever need, but about half way down the first page all the torque specs are listed. The ones you need to be concerned with are listed as "wheel brg adjusting nut" which is the inside nut that sets the pre-load on the taper-fit spindle bearings and "wheel brg locknut" which is the lock nut that locks the other nut and lock washer in place (assuming you have manual hubs).

If you have auto hubs then you likely have just one nut and a weird little half moon shaped locking tang that locks the nut in place. That nut requires a different socket, and doesn't use a lock nut at all, but is held tight by that locking tang (which is held in place by the auto locking hub assembly). There are pictures of the 4 pronged nuts down about 3/4 the way on page 1 also.

This isn't all that bad a job, but there is definitely more involved in it than changing the rotors on your average front wheel drive car! The biggest thing is to be sure you get the right pre-load on those spindle bearings when you put it all back together.

And yes, then there is the matter of separating the hub and rotor assemblies and pounding out the studs...

 

Nate, the auto hub nut (as well as the inner nut on manual hubs) is torqued to 50 ft lbs while turning the wheel and then backed off a 1/4 turn. The manual hub has the inner nut and then a locking washer and then the outer nut which is torqued to 160-205 ft lbs.

I don't know where the info came from from the pirate 4x4 site but Chilton and Haynes both state the specs I listed as well as the manual here.

 

Hmmm, the plot thickens...

I know I have torqued the outer lock nut on the D44 on my dad's Ranger to something around 175-200 ft/lb, but I can also say that when I disassembled the manual locking hubs on my D60 this past weekend the lock nut was nowhere near that tight. I was ready for a fight, but it was nowhere near as tight as I have made the ones on dad's truck. I wonder which figure is right then... I have to put mine back together as soon as I get my parts, so I guess I better get it sorted pretty quickly.

 

I just did my front brakes a couple of weeks ago. There is no way the outer nut was even 100flbs. I don't have the manual and I can see that that kind of torque should be fine on the outer nut. Just was not that tight on mine. No one had the socket for the D60 near me so I used a brass drift pin and hammer to tap them loose. Did not take much and to the OPs original question it is doable with basic knowledge and tools. Make sure you bleed the calipers well. U tube has a guy that does them on our style trucks. Hint: don't hit the threads on the wheel studs when you knock them out of the hub/rotor assembley. Stops the show....LOL

 

I would do as Nate says. And James do you know who torqued them the last time. Maybe they didn't have the specs.

 

Sure don't Nick. To clarify, It could have been all wrong and if the spec says 200 I would do it. In fact, I am going to try and find the tool and check mine. Everything in the hub and the spindle looked great for me.