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My truck has a 330 Industrial engine and i was wondering about more pulling power. I have mountains and hills that the truck does not pull very well. Where is a good place to look for a 391 rebuild kit so I can have the engine beefed up. Any suggestions?
As you know, the 330 is an FT engine, same family as the 361 and 391, related to the FE car and light truck engines.
Bore and stroke are 3.875 x 3.50. The 391 is 4.05 x 3.78. You will not be able to overbore your block to fit the 391 piston. Even if you could, you are talking pistons rods and a crank, a complete rebuild. Balance and other items are different as well.
Power, as best as I can find, was 186 hp, 300 torque. For a 391, power,again, as best I can find, is/was 192/333 for later models, down from 235/372 in earlier models. Some discussion here, not official or verified:
So you can find a reman'd 391 and it will bolt in easy enough, but you will still be wanting for power. You can repower with an oil burner, and probably be in it as much as trading for a later model truck by the time you are done.
Yes the engine is running properly and the cylinders all had a compression test done and checked fine. I called the man I bought the truck from and he said the truck was already bored and it was technically a 361. But he also said the rear seal leaking was normal for these old trucks and I tend not to believe a whole lot he says now. It leaked a lot of oil so I changed the seal and now it leaks again after only being in there a month. I suspect the rear journal on the crankshaft as a possible culprit? The truck has a 5+2 and I guess its does fine, just real slow loaded or empty(top speed about 40-45). Does that seem right for that type of truck? Also got conflicting answers from different sources on the oil capacity and what weight to put in it. Where can I go to find out more info on this engine?
I appreciate your time and response. I was wondering do you know of where to look for parts in case I need a crankshaft? I also wanted to add that the man took told me that he kept the original carburetor and electronic ignition system and I wonder how much impact that is making on the performance. He didn't volunteer any of the info at point of sale and I did not know anything but that I needed a dump truck.
You could have the crank turned also if you wanted to go that far.
But if it is not the seal, note that these engines have a habit of leaking from the rear of the intake manifold where it rests on the block. Intake manifold R&R is best done with a 2 or 3 man team or with a crane. Most here suggest using gaskets for the port sides, but RTV only for the ends. If you find it's leaking and want to change it, more info can be found on the FE/FT forum.
As for oil capacity, truck motors are more than car or pickup motors, so I am guessing 6 to 8 quarts. Checking the level starting at 6 quarts when you change oil will tell the tale. As for oil type, when new in '77, a detergent multigrade would have been a possible. 10w-40 or 20w-40 or 20w-50. I can't imagine anyone running these new with non-detergent oil, but they may have run single grade. Maybe you can find out what it was fed...?
With a 5 & 2 and a 330, I would expect at least 60 MPH top speed on the flat. We had a '58 292 with a 4/2, and it would slowly creep past 60 with enough road and enough gas to keep that old 4bbl going.
This motor may have come from the factory with both a governed carb and a governed distributor. OEM electronic ignition in '77 should have been Duraspark II. What does it have now?
The carb--what does it have now? If it is a Ford/Motorcraft 2bbl, see if you can find a number in or near a clock-looking bunch of numbers cast into the side of the bowl. You can see it here, note the number "1.21"
FYI I dumped the old Holly Carb on my 391 on the and put in one of those new Edelbrocks. I ran absolultely perfect afterwards. I believe ti is technically a Carter AFB and the parts all interchange.. My 391 is in a 72 Wanderlodge by Bluebird.
I worked on a neighbor's farm whilst in high school. He had an F600 equipped with a 330, 4&2, and a tag axle. It would hit 70 pretty easy empty (14K) and though it took a bit to catch her breath loaded, would easily hit 65 on a flat. I had to downshift on hills, but with an over-loaded weight of 46k, that would be expected.
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Thanks for that info ND. How can I get some pep out of this Doggy. It is hooked to an Allison 6 speed and I suspect that most power and gas goes into turning those duel rear wheels.
You can't get more power reliably out of that engine in that application. They were built the way that they were to slog along pedal down without detonating themselves to death.
All of the normal hot rod tricks that work in cars don't work in medium trucks, at least with a very long engine life. ALL medium and heavy duty GAS truck engines from ALL manufactures were built this way for a reason.
It is what it is, slog along in the right lane and let it do what it does best, move a load. If you want to go fast, then a big diesel is the only way to go without breaking the bank in fuel.
I have run a little 330 / Allison MT series for four years now, zero engine problem, no exhaust leaks, nothing other that one set of tune up parts. Not fast, but it has now moved over 6 million pounds, and pulled trailers just fine, although on secondary roads I am down to 7-12 mph at times on steep hills, that is what the right lane and the four way flashers are for. I watch where and how I drive on the Interstates as I need to maintain the minimum 45 mph required speed and it will not always do that at 35k to 40k combined.
It will run on a good day a little over 60 mph flat out, will do 65-66 indicated on a down hill at 4000 rpm.
__________________ 90 F250 7.5L E4OD, 03 F350 SD auto with the infamous diesel 6.0 for work, 70 C600 330 MT40 auto dump truck O2 Oldsmobile Bravada, Kubota L3200, Hustler Super Z mower, all Hydrostatics, 85 Honda Elite 250 & 150 scooter CVT - Nary a manual in the fleet!
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