Truck still stalling and how to prevent a new gas tank from rusting
#1
Truck still stalling and how to prevent a new gas tank from rusting
Guys,
I made a post a while back about my truck stalling every time I came to a stop. My fuel filter was filled with rust, so after checking the tank, it was the original and filled with rust. So, I bought a new tank and replaced it, installed a new fuel line, and then cleaned the fuel pump. The fuel pump is the original and when I took out the glass sediment bowl, there was an inch of rust particles in the bottom. Anyway, I cleaned the fuel pump, ran a new line from the tank to the fuel pump, and a new line from the fuel pump to a new fuel filter, and a new line to the carb.
I took it out driving this weekend and it still stalls every time I come to a stop. I was on side roads mostly so I just started doing rolling stops so it didn't stall. If I give it gas while in neutral, it stays running. When it did stall, I was able to start it while it was running while just pushing in the button and pushing in the clutch. The glass sediment bowl is full of the gas, as is the new fuel filter. So, based on my email a while back, people recommended that I rebuild the carb. With all that rust in the old tank and in the sediment bowl and the fuel filter, I am sure there are issues with the carb. So, would that be the best next step, to rebuild the carb? What other issues might be the cause? At this point, I think the fuel pump is working fine.
Also, I replaced my old tank with a new tank from LMC. I am going to use ethanol free gas with the new tank. But, is there anything I should be doing to prevent rust from forming in the tank? Some guy told me to keep the tank filled as much as possible. If that is true, that is an issue because the closest station that sells ethanol free gas is 20 miles away. I am there once a month so I was just going to use my car and fill up 5 gallons cans of gas then pour them into my truck's tank, saving me a bunch of money from driving my truck to the station. Another guy told me to put some fuel additive or something to prevent it from rusting. Thoughts?
Any advice would be great.
Let me know.
Thanks.
I made a post a while back about my truck stalling every time I came to a stop. My fuel filter was filled with rust, so after checking the tank, it was the original and filled with rust. So, I bought a new tank and replaced it, installed a new fuel line, and then cleaned the fuel pump. The fuel pump is the original and when I took out the glass sediment bowl, there was an inch of rust particles in the bottom. Anyway, I cleaned the fuel pump, ran a new line from the tank to the fuel pump, and a new line from the fuel pump to a new fuel filter, and a new line to the carb.
I took it out driving this weekend and it still stalls every time I come to a stop. I was on side roads mostly so I just started doing rolling stops so it didn't stall. If I give it gas while in neutral, it stays running. When it did stall, I was able to start it while it was running while just pushing in the button and pushing in the clutch. The glass sediment bowl is full of the gas, as is the new fuel filter. So, based on my email a while back, people recommended that I rebuild the carb. With all that rust in the old tank and in the sediment bowl and the fuel filter, I am sure there are issues with the carb. So, would that be the best next step, to rebuild the carb? What other issues might be the cause? At this point, I think the fuel pump is working fine.
Also, I replaced my old tank with a new tank from LMC. I am going to use ethanol free gas with the new tank. But, is there anything I should be doing to prevent rust from forming in the tank? Some guy told me to keep the tank filled as much as possible. If that is true, that is an issue because the closest station that sells ethanol free gas is 20 miles away. I am there once a month so I was just going to use my car and fill up 5 gallons cans of gas then pour them into my truck's tank, saving me a bunch of money from driving my truck to the station. Another guy told me to put some fuel additive or something to prevent it from rusting. Thoughts?
Any advice would be great.
Let me know.
Thanks.
#2
Yes, a carb clean and rebuild is the next best step. There are a variety of carb rebuild kits to be had from Mac's, LMC, and others - not too much difference between them. If you don't already have one, get a Shop Manual to guide your work on the carb.
The carb cleaner also has some options. In addition to the spray can, you may want to consider a dip bucket from Berryman or similar seller. It is likely that there is crud in the carb ports/nozzles that is contributing to your issue.
On the tank, keeping is full is certainly the time honored method - keeping in mind that the change in gas formulations is relatively new. Going corn free (non-ethanol) is a good step. Considering how long it took to get fully crud infested, the best solution is to simply drive this beauty - causing you to replace the gas before it ages.
Get your carb right and don't be too worried about the tank - our heirs will figure it out.
DW
The carb cleaner also has some options. In addition to the spray can, you may want to consider a dip bucket from Berryman or similar seller. It is likely that there is crud in the carb ports/nozzles that is contributing to your issue.
On the tank, keeping is full is certainly the time honored method - keeping in mind that the change in gas formulations is relatively new. Going corn free (non-ethanol) is a good step. Considering how long it took to get fully crud infested, the best solution is to simply drive this beauty - causing you to replace the gas before it ages.
Get your carb right and don't be too worried about the tank - our heirs will figure it out.
DW
#4
#5
Assuming it is an original carb then it'll be a 'tube' type and the internal passages are drilled from different angles and have plugs in them. It is hard to get serious crap out of those passages without pulling and repluging. What happens is that the passages get smaller so when you spray cleaner into them and hit them with air you actually drive the crap into a tighter area and make things worse.
I'd try the berrymans or crc that has a basket so you can let things soak for a couple hours...let them soak much longer and some will discolor the coatings...then get a couple spray cans of carb cleaner, the stuff from walmarts (they also have the tubs of berrymans) is very good. I do lots of carbs and generally use 2 or 3 cans of spray cleaners.
If you give rebuilding a try and have problems post them up on here and you'll get lots of good advice. If you find a broken doodad or missing something give me a pm, i got lots of parts.
I'd try the berrymans or crc that has a basket so you can let things soak for a couple hours...let them soak much longer and some will discolor the coatings...then get a couple spray cans of carb cleaner, the stuff from walmarts (they also have the tubs of berrymans) is very good. I do lots of carbs and generally use 2 or 3 cans of spray cleaners.
If you give rebuilding a try and have problems post them up on here and you'll get lots of good advice. If you find a broken doodad or missing something give me a pm, i got lots of parts.
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Killgore
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02-21-2014 10:50 AM