I posted a while back with some questions about a 47 Ford Dump Truck I purchased and at the time I wasn't sure what I was going to do. It wasn't running when I got it but it would turn over.

I decided to go ahead and learn what I could about it and see if I can get it running. Eventually I would like to get it road worthy

The first thing I need figure out is why there is no spark. I was able head down to where I have the truck stored today to work on it. As I started trying to figure out what the problem, I found a number of potential problems. Most problems revolved around the crud caking everything. As I was poking around, I got tired of standing on the thin strip of metal that serves as a bumper. It was digging into my feet and it kinda hurt. Decided to climb down and try to think through what I need to do to troubleshoot this.

As I was standing there looking at the engine I realized that there was really only 7 bolts preventing me from removing the entire guts of the core of the ignition system. 2 bolts for the distributor, 2 bolts on each side that hold the metal tubes that the spark plug wires run through, and 1 holding the coil in place.

Thought what the heck, might as well take it all out. Seemed like a good idea. I thought it might be easier to troubleshoot it out of the truck on a bench. So I took it all out and now have it with me at home.

Everything went pretty easy and only had 1 problem. When I removed the wires from the coil, 1 of the terminals broke off. I stopped on the way home and picked up a replacement.

It seems like it shouldn't be overly difficult to set up a simple bench test to see if I can get enough voltage generate a spark on a plug. I already have a small test stand that I use to test magnetos on a spark plug so I can repurpose that.

If I take the distributor and build a small mount for it, it should be fairly straight forward to set up a test shouldn't it. I know I am making this into more work than necessary but I can't think of a better way to get a handle on how the ignition system works. I am even considering setting up 8 spark plugs and use a drill to spin the rotor shaft so I can watch each plug fire and the sequence.

One question I have is about typical points of failure. I want to use a multimeter to troubleshoot the distributor. Anyone have some good pointers for doing this?

I removed the condenser and it appears to be ok. I test a condenser by using a analog ohm meter. Touch 1 probe to the condenser body and the other to the wire. I watch the meter and switch the probes. If the ohm meter bumps a bit showing brief continuity and then goes back to no continuity, then I assume it's probably ok. I should see a slight bump in the needle each time you switch the probes.

Going to replace the plug wires. The current ones are super saturated with oil and covered with gunk. Anyone have a good source for plug wire with the braided cloth cover? I like the look of the yellow n black.

As soon as I get some photos edited, I will post them. I took a number of them showing the different things I discovered.

On a different subject, I noticed that the engine is a 59A-B . Not sure if that is good or bad but it seems like its a preferred model for people looking for a flathead.

Still worried about tires. The current tires are severely dry rotted 7.50 x 20s. Getting wheels under this thing is going to bankrupt me.

 

coker tires has a few tires that will fit.
military style #77504 7.50x20 $266ea
STA transport highway #77503 7.50x20 $316ea
firestone truck tread #761401 7.00x20 $230ea (will fit the same as 7.50 just 2" less in diameter)

 

The basic things you'll probably need to do to the distributor are:

1) clean the points so that they make contact. Your multimeter's ohms range can tell you when they are making good contact.

2) Set the gap of both sets of points to 0.014" to 0.016".

That's probably all you need to do. It is possible that the timing is screwed up, but I believe you said the truck was running when they parked it. So the timing was probably OK then and will still be OK now.

As long as you have it out, I'd suggest that you replace the condenser. They do fail with age and a new one is readily available from NAPA.

Tom

 

Thanks Tom, I am going to start some cleanup on the distributor tonight. Remove the crud encasing the outside, run a point file across the points and then use a tester to figure out what is what.

STELLA1. Thanks for the heads up. Hadn't found those. Nebraska tire has some for $150 + shipping. I am looking at $1500 for just the tires. Not sure if there is anyone in the area that are willing to work on 2-piece rims either. The tires are out there, but they would set me back 3 times what I have invested in the truck so far. That's a tough one for a cheap *** like me

 

One piece tubeless 19.5" or 22.5" wheels are available and will resolve your wheel/tire concerns. I have an ad in the classifieds for 19.5s, and others have 22.5s listed. Stu

Ford Truck Parts for Sale - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

I bought a couple of the 7.5-20's from Nebraska Tire a few weeks ago...they seem to be a good tire for the price. The local farm tire shop in my area had no issue with working on the lock rims.