Well I would like to build something like jfish045 and make some real HP haha
but I would like to get my ol truck back on the road sooner than later so I was wondering, since my block was rebuilt a wile back ago and the crank looks to be in good shape I would like to re ring the pistons hone and good cylinder head work would that be feasible?

 

Only way to know for sure is pull it apart and mic it , otherwise you're rolling the dice . a built engine will find the weakest link.

find a donor engine and build it on the side , then you can go wild and you have a backup engine if something goes wrong .

 

If the bores and crank are within spec, then a simple freshening up would be fine. Of course, if it still has the truck 390 pistons, it would be the perfect time to find something else that doesn't stop more .100 from the top of the block....... It's harder to make decent power with a CR in the 8's....

 

Rogue_Wulff what kind of pistons would you recommend?

 

Low cost option, factory 360 pistons (on 390 rods/crank) in the correct overbore size. Yeilds a CR in the mid 9's. These were relabeled car 390 pistons, not sure exactly which version.
Slightly higher, and bit harder to locate, mid 60's 390 4V pistons. Should get the CR into high 9 to low 10 range.
All out option, forged 390 pistons, designed for giving a CR as high as you dare go.

 

or get an entire rebuild kit for around $390-$500 from Mabbco motors and get the hyperutectic high compression pistons you can get almost exactly what you want with these guys MABBCO® MOTORS Online Catalog > Rebuild Kit > Rebuild Kits - FREE SHIPPING IN CONTINENTAL USA > Ford > Ford 390 6.4 Master Engine Rebuild Kit 1964-1976

 

How does the block look? Is there a ring ridge? Is there still a cross-hatch pattern on the thrust sides of the cylinders, or is there a vertical wear pattern?

 

Hypoid there is a ring ridge and no cross pattern, looks smooth

 

Sorry about the delay, I figured somebody else would understand where the question leads.

If you plan on replacing rings and bearings only, you need to check your bores for "out of round" wear limits. New parts in a wore out block is not a good investment.

If you plan on swapping in a 390 rotating assembly, you need to get those bores cleaned up. I've heard about guys swapping in a 390 crank and rods without machine work, and tore down such an engine. The top rings came out in tiny pieces. Reason is, the 390 piston sits higher in the hole, where the cylinder necks down from the normal wear of the 360's top ring.

Did I say that right?

 

The Silvolite 1130 Pitsons are rated at 9.5:1, and you can probably still run 87 octane fuel, but it depends on your Head Volume cc and some other specs. The higher your head volume cc, the lower the compression. Do you know your head volume cc? Here's a good compression calculator:

http://www.summitracing.com/popup/ca...ion-calculator

I would definitely hone it and check the straightness of the cylinders. Make sure they are not oval shaped. If there's a ridge and you are considering buying new pistons, I would go ahead and bore it and buy the correct oversize pistons.

 

About as right as right gets

Without getting rid of the ridge, and there's a ridge there if the hone marks are gone even if you can't see it, you're asking for trouble.

 

[quote=jonezzzman;13752767]The Silvolite 1130 Pitsons are rated at 9.5:1, ..........................................quote]


They are rated 9.5 IF they are sitting on top of a 390 crank and rod.

If they are sitting on top of a 360 crank and rod, they are what the OP has now, with an 8ish CR, if not high 7ish.

 

Not proud of this, but it can be done. When purchased the 352 in my truck was all original, and didn't run, hadn't run in no telling how many years. I tore it down right off. The bores were terribly worn, like on the order of .010 - .020 over and tapered like crazy. I ridge reamed it, dingle balled it, installed new rings and bearings. I had access to do the head work, so that was done. Cleaned everything else up and slapped it together. Ran great, and remarkable good power. When you stand on it you can smell the blow-by, and there's oil on valve cover where it vents from the filler cap. For years it towed a 5th wheel camper and firewood, never missed a beat. I think I put 20,000 miles on it before I bought a 390 short block for it. Certainly not a suggestion, but I knew it was going to be eventually replaced and there was no point in throwing good money away, at the time I had just married and didn't have much.


EDIT: I have a ridge reamer if you're interested...low miles, only used 8 times. LOL

 

haha you can keep you're reamer, I'm going to make some HP!

 

I did basically the same thing with a Triumph Tr7 engine, and drove it for a year or two. Didn't take the ridge off But reusing the original pistons, the top ring land was so loose that the ridge didn't matter