Very recently I've noticed what sounds like an exhaust leak on the drivers side on our 09 5.4 Super Duty. I've read that these engines were/are notorious for breaking studs and cracked exhaust manifolds and I think our engine has fallen victim to one or both of these malady's, Although, I was hoping Ford had made the changes necessary to stop this from happening by '09.

This truck has just barely 40,000 miles (which is a bit of a mystery/irritation) on it and my question is when I get around to fixing it is there anything that can be done hardware-wise to avoid this happening in the future? We really like this truck and I want to keep it for a long time. I heavy tow with it about 80% of the yearly mileage and is there anything I can do to as the operator to lessen the odds of this happening again? I conscientiously make every attempt to let it idle and cool down following a period of pulling it hard, beyond that I am at a loss as to anything else I can do in the process of daily operation.

This is very disappointing since mileage-wise it's only 4,000 miles beyond the end of the factory warranty. If this is going to happen every 40,000 miles I'm not sure I want to keep it.

Thanks for any light that can be shed on this situation.

 

I haven't heard of this issue on the newer 5.4, I would first look very carefully for any missing manifold studs and then for a crack. My 03 had 2 broken studs. Keep us posted because like I said It doesn't seem to be an issue with the newer motor..

 

To my knowledge they have not changed the exhaust manifold stud size from the somewhat small M8x1.25 studs. The manifolds are still a big chunk of iron which expand and contract a lot which break the studs.

The 3V engines are not immune to stud breakage, threads pop up from time to time with broken studs on 3Vs. Check to make sure there are no broken studs. The nuts can rust fast so grab each with a pliers to make sure they are not barely hanging on. If no broken studs check around the manifold leaks for soot from a small leak. A piece of rubber hose held up to your ear can help pinpoint leaks. Maybe you just have a nut that needs tightening.

If there are broken studs you can either replace the broken studs and keep the manifolds or go to a set of headers. The headers will solve the broken stud issues BUT you have to tighten the header bolts from time to time. Although there are locking header bolt kits available to prevent loosening. I thought at one point ARP made a stronger set of studs or bolts but I am not sure.

In the minut chance there are no broken studs and no leaks at the manifolds. Start working your way back to the ball/socket where the manifolds connects to the y-pipe, 02 sensor bungs, y-pipe joints, cats and etc checking for leaks.

 

Would be worth seeing if that is covered under the 5/50K emissions warranty. To me an exhaust leak wouldn't allow it to meet EPA emissions specs. I'd also say there is a fair chance the 5/60K powertrain warranty would cover it. I haven't read the specs on it for quite a while.

 

Thanks DKF for the pointers. We'll be checking out the things that you mentioned.

Galaxie, I'm thinking like you that the exhaust emissions warranty may come into play here. We'll be checking with the dealer as soon as harvest is finished.

I also purchased the Ford extended warranty and if the emissions warranty doesn't cover this deal I'm hoping the extended warranty will.

 

My 08 did it at 50K. Drivers side so far. I obtained new studs, nuts and gaskets from the dealer, get the three at the pipe flange too. Pre-soak for a few days with PB Blaster. I was able to removed the ex mani without total removal of the Y pipe from the passenger side mani. The rear bolt sheared at manifold height so there was enough stud left for me to tack weld a nut to it. Came right out with gentile coaxing of a 3/8" impact. The rest came out with the air impact as well. Really have to know your air tool and be gentile to avoid breakage. Once everything was out chased the head holes with a chaser then I surfaced the mani and head with a large file and die grinder with scotchbrite wheels. Then applied copper anti-seize to everything on the way back in. I rechecked the torque after a week of driving just as a sanity check. So far alls ok. Using a regular hand ratchet will almost always guarantee galling. The hammering action from the air gun always (mostly) prevails.

 

Good luck. Tried to replace mine and ended up taking it to the dealership. I have a 2003 with 56k and the nuts were too rusted for me to get off. If your going to do it you need to heat them up and pray they don't snap.

 

I had the same problem on my 08.Passenger side manifold was cracked. Truck had just under 50000 miles on it,covered by warranty.