I've started contacting a few of the custom chassis makers for my project - it will be a mostly mail order '56 Ford F-100 Replica - will probably use a real cab, but everything else will be aftermarket/replicas!

My main question to start is the chassis - has anyone had experience with progressive Automotive or Fatman Fabrications? I'm really leaning towards Progressive as the chassis they offer has everything I wanted in an easy to understand page - 4 disk brakes, mustang front suspension with some upgrades available, ford 9" rear end with spring suspension.

They do offer 4 bar which I would like as it's not "common" and has an interesting look, but as this will be a semi-daily driver, I've read that it can provide a quite uncomfortable ride.

Progressive got back to me today and if I order immediately, it woulnd't be available till April! I just submitted the request to Fatman Fab today.

Any reviews, ideas, or thoughts?

Thanks
Jerry

 

I have not seen either of those but I did receive a TCI custom front and 4 link rear with coil overs a couple days ago. Based on the quality of those I would not be hesitant to use their full frame. They offer any option you could want.

Link to their sale flyer.
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf...Ford_Truck.pdf

 

Wow - 4 week lead time and it looks like they're in Cali, so I wouldn't have to have it shipped clear across the country, just within the same state!

Why did you go with the 4-link? Is it a comfortable ride?

 

I bought a TCI frame and for the $ 9012 they included a posi rear end and power rack at no charge. Bought at Back to Fifties car show so that might have been a show special price. The frame is well built and the welds are almost to good looking to cover up with paint. I went with leaf springs for the ride quaility. The TCI frame included a Currie 9 inch rear end . Fatman included a used 9 inch Ford axle.

 

I requested the quote from TCI and I like a lot of the options they offer better than the original two I cited above.

I do have one question - I requested a price with the IFS and IRS - can independent suspension be lowered? I don't want it riding the ground, but I do want it lower then the stock setup - is IFS adjustable like springs are? If so, I will go with the IFS all around.

 

I went with the 4 link for a few reasons. Needed to lower the rear of the truck as I was lowering the front, 4 link allows full adjust-ability of the rear (has 3 ride height holes plus adjustable coil overs. I was going to add track bars in the rear to control the power anyway, 4 link will serve the same purpose. When talking to Steve at TCI he informed me the 4 link rode and handled much better than the spring setup they offer.

When it comes right down to it the most important thing to me was to be able to adjust the rear ride height.

 

I don't think you would be disappointed with either of these frames. I can tell you that Steve at TCI knows his stuff, he has an awesome '56 himself. As for rear suspension the 4 link is hard to beat, I almost went with it on my "new" 56. I didn't because of $ at the time. Bite the bullet and do it now

 

Within reason - I expect the total build cost will be around $45k, so I don't mind getting the 4-link now, but everything I read hints that the 4-link is pure performance and no comfort. I want this truck for shows and semi-daily driving. My hope is to drive it at least twice a week while I live in souther california.

Any thoughts on the 4-link? Can it provide a good ride?

 

Typically coil springs give a better ride than leaf springs (leafs always have some friction between the leaves). That is one of the reasons most modern cars and even some trucks run coils front and back, even ford finally switched on the front of their trucks. That being said, a good set of leaf springs can give a very good ride. I have leaf rear springs on my 56 Fairlane and a friend has coils on his 64 Chevelle. I think mine rides just as good as his. Maybe someone who has switched can add more.

 

Jerry, without sounding like a salesman, the 4 link is suspended by coil over shocks and the spring rates can be adjusted/changed almost at whim. If properly installed they provide much better geometry, plus they look great from behind. I guess I do sound like a salesman, what the hell, go for it!

 

I actually found a couple of good articles on the 4-link and I just submitted a new quote request with TCI with the 4-link included!

 

So I got the quote back from TCI and I'm thinking of going with it, I just wanted to get some feedback. So here are the options I'm going with:

53-56 F-100 COMP IFS CHASSIS
-----------------------------
56 FORD TRUCK
302 SBF W/ T56 TRANS
CUSTOM IFS PLN
SGL RIDETECH COILOVER
FRONT SWAY BAR KIT CRM
POLISHED A-ARMS
STOCK HEIGHT CRM SPINDLES
12" DRILLED W/4 PIS CALIPERS
REAR POLISHED 4-LINK
CRM REAR SWAY BAR
SGL RIDETECH COILOVERS
STAINLESS HARDLINES W/ STAINLESS FLEXLINES PLUMBED
POWER PEDAL ASY
9" HOUSING W/31 SPLINE AXLES
370 GEAR W/ TSD POSI
12" DRILLED W/4 PISTON
CALIPERS & INTERNAL E-BRAKE

COIL OVER 4-LINK CHROME/STAINL

CHASSIS OPT UPGRADE BRAKE LINES TO STAINLESS STEEL

REAR SWAY BAR KIT

53-56 PWR BRK PDL BRE W/O BOOSTER AND MASTER CYL
CLUTCH & PWR BRK PDL W/CLUTCH w/ CLUTCH CYLINDER KIT ONLY

POSI UNIT (T.S.D) OPTION

POWER RACK OPT

289-302-351 WINDSOR ENGINE MNT BOLT-ON ENGINE MOUNTS


I will probably have the gears changed to something like a 3.23

The engine I'm ordering is the aluminator coyote 302 to be paired with the Tremtec T-56 6-speed manual.

 

I haven't ordered a chassis from TCI, Fatman or Progressive. If you like Corvette suspension, Progressive is a good way to go. Fatman has the Mustang II down to a science. As for TCI, their quality is much better than 10 years ago (thank goodness). I have judged ISCA and TSCA shows for over 20+ years and have seen just about everything you can imagine (good and bad) from most of the popular manufacturers. Everything from broken welds and untrue frame dimensions are just some of the issues I have seen. I once spent $20k to have a '34 Ford Chassis built and once it arrived, I had to cut it apart to true it up. The frame horns were 9/16" off from one side to the other. Thus the reason I now build my own so I can control the quality I expect. Im not accusing any of the previously mentioned builders of sub par, Im just saying not everyone has the same idea of "top-notch".

However, I would highly recommend you take a look at Art Morrison's suspensions before you pull the trigger. I have seen nothing but excellence come out of their shop. They are located in the NW so shipping should be reasonable to CA. They design everything by CAD and their chassis are "spot-on" from front to back. They have designed their own suspension geometry (no Mustang II) and are probably the only company I would farm out my chassis to. They arent the cheapest, but they definitely are considered one of, if not the best. All of the top builders use them and you will likely be delighted with their product.

Best of luck with your decision. I would think you will be safe with any of the above...do your research and you should be confident in your choice.

Troy

 

Right on Troy. I did not suggest AM because it wasn't mentioned but if you want to spend the $ they are top-notch

 

That's an interesting point - i will have to email TCI back about warranty issues should the pieces not bolt right on. The gentlemen I talked to on the phone today had said it once I get the frame I can start bolting the other body parts on, but I never thought to ask, well, what if they don't fit...I'm about to pull the trigger with TCI, so maybe I'll post around at different forums to get a broader range of of opinions on the quality of their full chassis products!

So I was looking around the Morrison site and downloaded their catalog, haven't fully looked through it as it's big, but I don't see that the offer full chassis options for the 53-56 F100. So maybe a little background is in order.

Hopefully I won't get in trouble for posting this, but here is the site for my truck build:

Mail Order Build of a 1956 Ford F100

I fully expect to have to register the truck as a kit car as it won't be a true '56 but built will all aftermarket parts and with the possible exception of the cab, the entire body being fiberglass. Overall, the truck should tip the scales a little over the 2,000 lb mark.

As for doing the chassis myself, I'm limited in a couple of ways:

1) I have very limited welding experience, and what experience I did acquire was over 15 years ago (I grew up on a farm and had to help my dad fix some of the tractors, equipment, and fabricate a trailer for hauling hay)
2) I'm OK with a torch, but I don't have one (easily fixed I guess) nor do I have the space for one
3) I know myself well - if this project goes past a year, and fabricating my own chassis would do that, I will NOT finish it...it's just a sad truth about myself
4) I want all of the modern amenities on the vehicle, so using a stock frame really limits that taking points 1 - 3 in to account.