1) Yes, follow these procedures: Fuel Injection Technical Library » EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) and Fuel Injection Technical Library » EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR)

2) The green line is connected to the EGR Control/Vacuum Solenoid (EVR)

I recently spent a month troubleshooting a problem with code 332 on my 1991 5.8. My problem ended up being that the o-ring between the EVP and EGR valve wasn't sealing right and so all applied vacuum wouldn't hold. But since your EGR is holding open with vacuum I don't think that's the case.

Keep in mind that this code states that the EGR valve opening is not detected, not that it's not opening.

What I ended up doing is tapping into the EVP wires and monitoring the movement of the sensor while I was driving. I ran jumper wires from the EVP wiring to inside the cab where I had my meter set up and could watch it while I was driving. You might want to consider a similar set up to determine if there's any movement of the EVP/EGR while you're driving, but you will only see movement at part and full throttle.

 

So let me get this right in simple terms. Troubleshooting the egr it passes and seems good.
The egr sensor is what tells the solenoid when to open. So I'm most likely not getting vacuum to the egr because of a fault in either one...


I priced the sensor and solenoid and both are $60. I could just buy both of them and see if that fixes my problem.
The solenoid I guess just opens when 12 volt power is applied only when sensor sends the signal.
Hmm more troubleshooting or just buy stuff..

 

Here's some more reading for you.. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-evr-fix.html

A code 332 means the ECU did not see the EVP sensor move when the ECU commaned the EVR(EGR Vacuum Regulator) to open. At this point, I would TEE in a vacuum gauge directly to the EGR valve. While driving the vacuum should be around 3 to 6 inches vacuum. It does not take much vacuum to operate a EGR valve. No vacuum and NO electrical codes for EVR means you have a bad vacuum line to the EGR valve. I had the same code for my 95 E350 bus and turns out it was a busted hard line at the vacuum canister.

If you have a vacuum gauge, by all means use it like I did, that saves $$$$ and makes things alot easier to diagnose. I doubt the EVP sensor is causing as it would of showed up as a code(but anything is possable)

 

No, the computer tells the EGR solenoid when to engage. The EVP sensor tells the computer how far open the EGR valve is.

At idle, the solenoid vents vacuum to keep the EGR valve shut. When the computer senses throttle operation via the TPS (throttle position sensor), it then sends a signal to ground out the EGR solenoid. When the EGR solenoid grounds, it seals the vent and vacuum is applied to the EGR valve. As the EGR valve opens, the EVP sensor tells the computer when the valve opens and how far open it is.

You're welcome to replace the sensor and solenoid, but throwing parts at a problem doesn't fix it. My money is on a bad vacuum supply, and what you need to determine is why. It's either cracked or broken vacuum lines, a faulty EGR solenoid, or a leak in the EGR valve. Since you've already vacuum tested the EGR valve and it held vacuum, that one is ruled out. So now you need to determine if it's bad vacuum lines or a faulty EGR solenoid.

Why don't you take the money you were going to use to buy the sensor and solenoid, invest in a vacuum gauge, and use that to diagnose the real problem?

 

I have a vacuum gauge. I'll see what I can come up with
Ill test the ohms as well

 

Yes they crack and disintegrate like a ****. There is a decent writeup on replacing all the plastic with rubber on fullsizebronco. The coffee can i am referring too is the one sitting on the passenger side fender liner. Has 2 vac lines going to it. They like to rot out. I had the 332 code when i bought my 91. What fixed that issue for me was pulling e egr off the truck, pulled off the evp and cleaned it all. Put it back on and reset ecu and i was good to go. But your truck is running like **** you say so id like at the vac lines for sure

 

Ok update.
I took off plug on solenoid and tested ohms. Read like 36 with multimeter on the 200 scale of ohms.



Next test procedure was to ground out the one wire. One has power so the other I poked with a wire and grounded out. That should of opened solenoid then rpm changed on motor or just stall it out, but nothing!
Ok next the top white hose on solenoid I imagine this should have full time vacuum then when solenoid opens sends it to egr. There is no vacuum to the white hose..???



The white hose runs back to a little 1x1 box then tees to another 1x1 box beside it. The furthest back box thing has a spot for a plug but no wire to it??

I'm pointing to the box with nothing plugged in.

 

Ok this tells me one of the hoses should have vacuum!

Part 4 -How to Test the Ford EGR Valve and DPFE Sensor.

 

Ok so I disconnected the white line to solenoid and ran a hose from intake to white hoses spot. While running I grounded the one wire of solenoid. Engine stalled! So I now have vacuum to my egr!
Took it for a drive and it drives smooth. I noticed the exhaust is even quieter. Check engine light didn't come on for the 5 minute drive. It's usually not on at first then will appear.
Idle is at about 8-900 rpm vs the 500 it was at before. Didn't stall once but it was the worst in the mornings. I think I got it!! Fingers crossed it stays like this.

 

The white vacuum line is coming from the vacuum can on the passengers fender. The vacuum can should be supplied with vacuum from a red vacuum line. The red vacuum line goes to the vacuum tree on the upper intake manifold.

The "little 1x1 box" are the solenoids for the air pump system. One is for bypass and one is for diverting (AIRB & AIRD). The white vacuum line supplies all three solenoids.

 

I'm going to check the vacuum to egr while driving. I just need to grab a Tee for the line for my gauge.

 

Drove to work this morning. No stalling until after 10 minutes exgaust starts with a loud leak. The bottom of egr valve was connected with what looks like heater hose ,connecting the pipes to manifold?? Wtf
Did previous owner cut out that section in engine swap? The heater hose blew a 2" hole out side.
I replaced it with a high heat hose from my hydraulic shop in town. It's rated up to 375 ferenheit.
Fixed hose when I got home. Also tee'd vacuum gauge to egr and drove it. No vacuum for first 1000 meters then it kicked in and was around 5-7 under cruise speed. Seemed like it was doing what it should!!


New Hose on egr tube was super hot! I couldn't touch it long. I don't know if it will last. I think this previous hack is haunting me again!



Put a vacuum gauge on intake and at idle it seemed to be at a healthy 22 with no bouncing and dropped nice when I hit throttle.

 

Oh, better get rid of the rubber hose as a EGR pipe! FIRE hazzard! EGR pipes will get hot and will burn anything that touches them! Exhaust gases are around 900 to 1100 deg F under cruse! Also do not use copper pipe, won't last long, I know the hard way..... find one hopefully at a junk yard(good luck getting it off) or use steel pipe, someone here used stainless steel pipe to fix their EGR pipe.

As for the vacuum to the EGR valve, that is good around 3 to 7 inches vac while crusing.

As I noticed you have a 96 F350, the vacuum canister is a plastic rounded box on the pass side fender next to the battery. I put one in from a 96 truck as my old soup can vacuum canister rusted out! Check the vacuum hard lines going to it, most likley a hard line is bad.


A few threads down I find this one: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ment-help.html

Same will apply for the 5.8L engine too, just get correct part.

 

+1 on that. Even if it does tolerate the heat for a short amount of time, what may end up happening is the interior walls start melting away at first, and then all that nasty mess will be sucked into the intake. That'll be a real mess to clean, and damn hard on the engine to boot.

Word of caution on the aftermarket EGR tubes: make sure the replacement is exactly the right length. I bought one a few months ago (Dorman brand, I think) and it was too short by an 1/8th inch. After some struggling I managed to get it to work, but that's the first and last time I'll mess with one too short.

 

Truck is running like a champ for the past week. No stalling!
Still have rubber/silicone high temp hose on. I only do short drives but I do want to fix it right soon.

I had an idea of brazing it up as welding would be impossible in place.