NEw tie rods. Still a lot of freeplay
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From about 6 o clock to 12 o clocks amount.
I've replaced all the tie rods with moog tie rods and moog track bar bushings. Les Schwab said it needs shackle bushings as well. So far nothing I've done has tightened it up. My buddy has 2 of these f350s and the steering play on mine is nowhere near as tight as his are. Also my tie rods seem go fop up and down 2x as much as his do. Even with the new tie rods they flop badly.
I've replaced all the tie rods with moog tie rods and moog track bar bushings. Les Schwab said it needs shackle bushings as well. So far nothing I've done has tightened it up. My buddy has 2 of these f350s and the steering play on mine is nowhere near as tight as his are. Also my tie rods seem go fop up and down 2x as much as his do. Even with the new tie rods they flop badly.
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so you have 180 degrees of play.... that is a lot....
To find where the play is coming from have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth in the free play area with the truck on the ground (engine off) and inspect each component.
The steering wheel is directly connected to the steering shaft so the first joint is the rag joint (unless the splines on the steering wheel are damaged).
if the shaft on the steering wheel side and the steering box side move together then move to the steering box (if there is any play replace the rag joint... they are cheap).
For every move the input of the steering box makes you should see the pittman arm move. if there is more than about 5% play, replace the steering box.
and so on till you get to the wheel and tire.
Richard
EDT: you can adjust the steering box a bit but that can be very dangerous. steering boxes wear more in the middle than at the ends so if you take the play out in the middle the steering can lock up (or the box can split) when you are turning.
To find where the play is coming from have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth in the free play area with the truck on the ground (engine off) and inspect each component.
The steering wheel is directly connected to the steering shaft so the first joint is the rag joint (unless the splines on the steering wheel are damaged).
if the shaft on the steering wheel side and the steering box side move together then move to the steering box (if there is any play replace the rag joint... they are cheap).
For every move the input of the steering box makes you should see the pittman arm move. if there is more than about 5% play, replace the steering box.
and so on till you get to the wheel and tire.
Richard
EDT: you can adjust the steering box a bit but that can be very dangerous. steering boxes wear more in the middle than at the ends so if you take the play out in the middle the steering can lock up (or the box can split) when you are turning.
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I found the culprit on my '95 van, it was the lower U-joint on the steeringwheel shaft.
The one just in front of the steering gear, and of course it's no longer in production.
I have the upper U-joint and shaft from Cardone, so I was thinking about breaking that apart and repair the lower one.
The one just in front of the steering gear, and of course it's no longer in production.
I have the upper U-joint and shaft from Cardone, so I was thinking about breaking that apart and repair the lower one.
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Well I just rebuilt the steering column and it seems to have helped. The pitman arm moves pretty much in sync with the wheel. What I'm seeing is the tie rods themselves flopping up and down quite a bit. I looked over my buddies truck and when he turns his wheel his flop but about 1/2 as much as mine. I'm gonna keep investigating and if I find the major issue I'll post it up here.
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The tie rods are not supposed to flop up and down at all.
They should be tight.
When i hold my hand over the tie rods both sides (ball joint and nut end), a buddy moves the steeringwheel back and forth. Both sections of the tie rods should move in sync.
If it flops, something is worn out, or nut end of tie rod is not seated properly.
There is a conical seating, if it's worn out and made oval, the arm must be replaced.
Maybe this helps you solve your problem
They should be tight.
When i hold my hand over the tie rods both sides (ball joint and nut end), a buddy moves the steeringwheel back and forth. Both sections of the tie rods should move in sync.
If it flops, something is worn out, or nut end of tie rod is not seated properly.
There is a conical seating, if it's worn out and made oval, the arm must be replaced.
Maybe this helps you solve your problem
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