Looking good! By the way, the next round of storms is coming through here Monday, so don't let the Ark sail w/o you.

 

Wife's cousin called around 12:45 and wanted to know what I was doing. He was supposed to be doing a concrete pour in Cape Charles today, everything was supposed to be ready for the inspection and pour. It is a big slab floor with buried plumbing. Friday and Saturday the system held water perfectly, when they arrived today, it was empty so the plumber has to dig everything up and find the leak(s). Whoever the job is for is having a fit about it has to be done by Friday. He is about fed with it. He came with his crew and started closing part of the inside walls as far as he can till I get the next electrical part inspected.

 

Another's misfortune is your gain.

 

Got a chance to do some inside the shop work today (konvertible is at a slight impasse, engine computer is fubar) so I put some LED lights up in what will become the wood shop area.



Lights are 4' ones, worked out as 1,2,1 for spacing.



Here is what they are, from Sam's Club.

 

I've looked at those. Sure seem bright. But I can't justify replacing all the fluorescent ones I have year as the first set of bulbs is still going. But, some day I will do it.

 

I have been slowly doing the ones in the house, but have enough 8' fluorescent tubes to last a looong time. These were for an area I need to install lights in.

 

I've converted the house to screw-in LED's, but the lights in the shop are all 4' T8 fluorescent tubes with a CRI in the high 80's. Doe the LED work lights have a Color Rendering Index?

 

Don't know, I will see if it says anything in the literature or on the boxes.

 

Just this morning I was called to my friends garage because he said there was no power, but the lights were on

When I checked the garage subpanel the neutral was bad.... but those LED shop lights were still shining bright because they draw so little current and the drivers adapt to
lower voltage.
The LED's themselves only require something like 3V to operate.

 

The ones in my buddy's garage are t8 replacements that I got from Amazon.
I bypassed the ballasts in the fixtures, and swapped out the bulbs.
They come in 4k and 5K for $8-9 a piece. (Dozen per package)
2000 lumens but no mention of CRI.

Mostly did it because they draw half the wattage of fluorescent and come on instantly in the cold

 

Mine come on instantly, although it doesn't get cold nor hot in my shop. But, I have two ballasts out, so why not start the conversion by ordering some replacement LED's rather than ballasts?

My goodness! There are a lot of options: .

 

Ok, Gary, here is the label from one of the boxes.

 

Thanks, Bill. That CRI isn't quite what I have, but not too far off that, either. Maybe I'll start swapping them out, and start with the ones that are dead.

 

New acquisition on 17 July, bought a bunch of shelving pieces for $21.75 from a thrift shop up in Pittsville MD. Need to find a few more shelf supports and some sturdy 5/8" shelving.

 

Looks like drilled angle iron, I think you can get that at lowes.
As for shelving, I'd use Advantec sub flooring, It's got a 50 year warrantee, so it'll hold up to being used as shelving and it won't bow, cup or twist like regular linear boards and even plywood.
As a side note i used to have one of the post jacks like that orange one in your picture. I had to leave it behind when I lost my house.
I got it from a high school when I was in high school, and rebuilt it and brought it all the way from California to Missouri.