Jim is correct, however, since it is already up it gets more interesting. There are some angles for supporting the arches that the erection crew did not use. I have to put them on the outside of the eave section spanning several arches. Then you take a bunch of the panel to panel seam bolts out and loosen the joints. Then you attach a piece of angle long enough to span the 7" between the seam bolts. Once these are on the 3rd, 6th and 9th arches, I take a cargo strap and anchor the other end. I will take up the load on the 3rd arch and then block the outer rib at one of the bolts with a 2X4, then move back to the 6th arch and repeat. Then back to the 9th arch. Then you start over at the 3rd arch. Once it is plumb, I leave the 2X4s bracing it and reinstall and tighten all the bolts. The 2X4s stay until the front wall is finished at least far enough to tie it in.

Since the wall will end up 6 1/2" from siding to inside of 2X6s, the flange will actually pretty well sit on it when finished. In actuality, the front of the first arch will overlap it about 3/4 - 1"

 

Wow! They put it up out of plumb and you have to do all that? Why wouldn't they come back to do it?

 

The problem is Steelmaster doesn't put them up. They gave me someone they recommended, or at least the salesman did. I was hoping they would put pressure on him to come fix it. I have a ton of pictures, not once did they use a level or the arch supports.

 

Yes, I would hope the contractor comes back. If not, it is Angie's List time - or at least tell Steelmaster that you are going to post on AL they they and their contractor do shoddy work.

 

Better yet, on FB with pictures.

 

That'll do it as well. I'd give Steelmaster a chance, but if the contractor that they suggested won't come to fix it I would explain my plans to Steelmaster. Their man recommended the contractor so you are right in including them in the post(s).

 

I just talked to Rich Merrill at Steelmaster. He has the pictures I took of the erection process and is sorting and renaming them for his/my file. The crew that put it up is run by a second generation, a Joe Maloney Jr. He used to work for his dad, and when the dad died, he took over the business. He is now (previous to my issue being reported) off the list of authorised Steelmaster installers. According to Rich there is at least one other like mine that needs realignment.

I am going to try to get ahold of him since I still have his number and see what he says. It will probably be a wasted call.

 

Yes, it will probably be a wasted call. Reminds me of a few years ago when I discovered that part of the ceiling of our house hadn't been insulated. It is only 9 years old so I called the builder, who said he not only doesn't use that company any more since they didn't fully insulate the houses, they've gone out of business. Shoddy work will catch up with them. Good luck, though.

 

Joe called me back, his suggested method was to see if the specified height of 16' 11.875" was correct at the first arch inside. If not, to raise it to the correct height (he recommended using 17') and leave it supported until the front wall is finished.

 

So, he wants you to fix is crew's mistake? Or, is he saying that if it isn't 17' he'll come fix it?

 

He is of the opinion that since there isn't a front wall the building may have settled a little, which is what Rich Merrill thought too. He is trying to blame the back portion on the base connectors being installed wrong.

 

Back to some good stuff. When I tried to bench program the door remotes the first time I was reading through the instructions and it told me the pick a 4 digit number and with the receiver in the program mode enter it. The first one they sent only had 4 active buttons, 4,5,6,8 and 0. The instructions also referenced a stop/close button. When I emailed John Golbeck at Gama Electronics, his comment was "they sent the wrong one".

He shipped me another one, and said just dispose of the non-functional one. Here are the two:

 

Looks like even the good guys make mistakes. But they responded, and positively - unlike National Quick Start. Anyway, does it work?

 

Once I set it up, I can hit open on one of the fobs, close and stop and using my Fluke 75 connected to the appropriate wires see that the relays were doing what they are supposed to. I then entered the code I had set, and the open relay closed, then when I hit stop/close, the stop relay opened, I hit it again and the close relay closed. I think they will work very well.

 

Yep, it sounds like they do work. Good deal! When is the wall going up? Oh wait, everything has to be squared first. When is that happening?