Ok, I will see how the best way to do that is. The auto shop area is asymmetrical due to the "office" bathroom and woodshop taking up the left side. I will send you a cross section of the building also.

 

I can "print" it to a PDF that you can print and draw on.

 

Most of the stuff is in PDF format anyway.

 

Emailed to you, thanks!

 

A little more progress, since the outer ends of the front wall are over the metal base connector, Ray Doughty recommended I use a 4X6 pressure treated piece 8' long and lag bolt it to the base connector and attach it somewhere further up. The top row of bolts on the sides are just about 6' up. Here is the right side installed. The top roughly 10" needed to be cut at a slight angle to clear the curve.

 

Interesting. Had I seen that pic before drawing it yesterday I would have asked exactly how high the curve starts. I didn't realize it was so obvious. But I scanned your drawing in and enlarged it and drew around it. Turned out that my guestimate that the radius of both the side curves and the top curve is 6' was correct, or very close.

Do you want me to post the drawing here to get input from others? Or, you could? You might get better advice than mine.

 

Go ahead and post it, maybe someone will come up with something, or maybe just agree.

 

Well, I had a post completely typed up and was attaching the pic when my browser crashed on the iPad. So, here 'tis again.

Bill sent me drawings of his shop and I drew a front view up on my CAD program to allow me to move things around easily and accurately. The attached pic shows what I ended up with. The lights are centered on the straight section of the roof and bounce light directly under a vehicle on the lift. And, they also shine directly on the sides of the vehicle for things like mounting wheels, working on brakes, etc.

The downside is that his fixtures have some kind of cutoff angle due to the reflectors. Don't get me wrong, reflectors are good, it is just that they cut off the light at a certain angle and that may cause problems on the right side of the shop. Bill is to get me info on the fixtures, maybe even with model #'s, so I can try to guestimate the cutoff angle and then draw that in. But if they only have a 90 degree spread then the lower right will be dark with the fixtures as shown. However, he has another 32' of fixtures so can easily solve that, although knowing the cutoff angle will help us place those fixtures to maximize the lighting.

But, we/he are looking for more input. More eyes and brains are better.

 

Gary, I saw this after I sent the email, so I sent a label picture from my iPhone.

 

Got it, thanks. And that explains why one message was from "Bill" and one from "William Vose".

 

Yes, and one will have been @icloud.com

 

Ok, let's try this. I drew up the light fixtures and then found what I'll call the cut-off angle. However, there are really two angles since the far tube has a wider angle to the opposite side reflector. Both angles are shown on this drawing, but the combined light is shown in bright yellow while the light from the single lamp is shown in a darker yellow - if you can see the difference.



Then I placed those fixtures in the shop. The yellow lines represent the narrow 128 degree angle because that should be the brighter of the two since both tubes are contributing to that lighting. And, as this drawing shows that's quite adequate to get both the storage area on top of the rooms as well as the floor on the right side.



Bill - If that seems to nail that down, then where would you want to put the left-over strip? I can easily put it anywhere.

 

Damn, Gary that looks great! I was thinking maybe just at the top of the curved area on the right side, again, angled with the roof. That way, left and center for the middle bay, center and right for the right bay, and everything if you really want/need it. I have the strips set up where the A and B sections will be fed separately from opposite sides of the 230V feed for both safety and load division reasons. That way I can turn A or B only on a strip and have every other 8' section on. I will end up with two switches for each strip, for a total of 6 on the main, and two more for the current 16' section along the back wall. I do have, once I get a ballast for it, a 4' section to add for a 20' strip there. I take it the 128 on the label was the critical piece of information?

 

Is this what you mean? I was actually going to put it there before I sent the previous post, but Janey said lunch was ready and I hit "post". Anyway, I think that'll work very well.

As for the switches, I'll make a bet with you - you'll ALWAYS turn both switches for each strip on. I have my lift area set up exactly the same way and I always hit both switches. ALWAYS.

Oh, I forgot. I didn't find your fixtures. I think they are too old. So I just modeled them as best I could.

 

Pretty much, the way mine are wired there are 4 wires running the length of the strips. black, blue, green and white. The black and blue were originally the two sides of the 460 volt line in and the ballasts were wired in such a way that A sections were black and white line, B sections Blue and white line. The outputs were more convoluted, it looked like either alternating sides, ie, A left tube and B right tube or in-line A and B would be on with the black and white energised and the others when Blue and white were energised. With the intellivolt ballasts you only have 3 output wires, two blue and one red, blue goes to one end of the tubes and red to the other end, so you can't really do the cross fixture wiring any more.

I kept the input wiring split so black on = A section on, B section off, A section on, B section off. Thus I will have light, dark, light, dark rather than one end on the other off. Since the B ends will be toward the front (male pins on light harnesses face that way, so lead from wall will terminate as a female plug).