Today I primed my engine on the stand and read about 55-60 psi. before the bypass kicked in. All of the rockers oiled and I'm a happy boy. With only 500 miles on the (crate) engine, the previous owner gave it to me because it ran less than 20 psi at speed and almost nothing at idle.

I saw no obvious problems. The mains and rods looked great and plastigauged to spec. I opted to just replace the pump and the filter adapter to see what happened. At 10 psi per 1K RPM, I think it's a "go" but was curious as to whether you get a true pressure reading when the engine is static versus when the crank assembly is rotating?

 

While on a stand or in frame, we alway either rotate by hand or with starter
with no spark plugs. So nautrally the will have more pressure when stopped.
That way all journal passages get filled up, rod squirt holes filled up. Maybe
overkill, but makes me feel complete. I mean if something does happen, I
know all bases were covered.

 

Were you using a drill with a priming adapter? Can you motor it with the plugs out like Big Job says? The only other places oil could leak is the cam bearings, or the plug at the front of the oil gallery (do SBC's have that?).

 

Yeah, I used a primer tool and a big-A$$ drill motor. I was concerned it was leaking from the cam bearings or a plug was missing or leaking in the front. I guess I'll yank the plugs and hook up a remote starter switch so Mamma can spin the engine while I drive the pump. I am considering a cam change and can check the front plugs if need be.

 

I know it would be more work, and cost, but is there someone around who has a dyno or test stand you can actually test run it on?

 

What engine are you running?

I bought my 351w as an unfinished project. Apparently the previous owners machine shop guy drilled a small hole in the soft plug in the bottom of the oil pump. I think that is a racing tip to prevent lifter pump-up. My engine would make pressure just fine with a drill turning the pump. It would make pressure when it started, but after the oil warmed up, it would drop to 0 pressure at idle. At power, it'd climb right up to 40 psi. I changed out the pump to a stock (not high volume) pump. I get 40 psi at idle now, & it runs at 60 psi while driving. I don't get any lifter pump-up issues.

Dan

 

Pulled the plugs, hooked up a remote switch, and spun the engine while driving the pump. 55 lbs. I'm gonna declare it fixed and will cover my ears and yell la-la-la-la if anyone wants to disagree.....

Actually, I was dismayed at the TIR Perpendicularity (.37) of the Flexplate Ring Gear while it was spinning. The Starter didn't seem to make any evil noises but I didn't like it. The question is will the Torque Converter when installed, pull it perpendicular ? Flexplates aren't expensive but I don't know if this is a common occurrence.

Dawg-A-Roo

 

Dawg,
Sounds like plenty of oil psi to me. As far as the flexplate issue, I would guess that the torque converter would straighten it right out. You could always pull the torque converter from the trans and bolt it on to see what it looks like (just make sure you get it clocked all the way back into the trans when you put it back together).

Bobby