SEAN Got a Good One with EGR Valve if its not working right or Plugged in


At your Temps you should remember the Fan it would have been noticeable


SO you just bought this truck and had to Pour Money into it



If it was me New Mechanic Time Im sorrey if its a Family friend

 

Im shure we don't hear the Whole storey on FTE until its ASKED Up FRONT


I guess he could have just bought someone else Problem


I see a Ton of Parts getting changed though LOL

 

Not ready to give up on my mechanic yet.

Will check egr valve. I think that I did hear the fan when I had those high temps although there is doubt because it was not nearly as loud as the fan on my old 7.3 which really did sound like a jet engine starting up. Is there a way to test that fan & clutch?

I'm on my second oil cooler due to a faulty seal, and have a thoroughly flushed cooling system, with coolant filter installed - and engine is still running very hot. Apparently the water pump on this engine is very solid but is this something I should consider changing anyway? They aren't that expensive.

I had back flushed the radiator (and oil cooler and heater core) sometime ago with a garden hose but perhaps I should take the radiator out and have it professionally tested?

Even if I can find something wrong with the water cooling/circulating system, could that account for the high deltas?

Too many questions here, I know. Thanks for any input.

 

the Impellar on the OEM water pumps Slip there Plastic

the upgrade is a Metal Impellar water pump

 

I know first hand, if you have ruptured an oil cooler, you need to pull thermostat, and pull both block plugs (might as well install fumoto valves to make it easier) to get it clean. I don't think most mechanics understand this.

VC9 is a rust remover, not a degreaser. Use internationals Restore for a degreaser. Restore plus is the same as vc9 but cheaper. Degrease once or twice. Pull thermostat and plugs. Use a hose pipe run into the degas bottle, open the block plugs, and rev the engine after the radiator is full. Thus will gush water out the plugs and get as much debris out as possible.

Then BACKWASH the heater core with a garden hose. I washed mine into a 5 gallon bucket just to see what was still in there. You will be amazed by what was lodged in there after being flushed. I did not have to BACKFLUSH my oil cooler because I knew it was being replaced. So, I didn't figure out how to-do that. I'm curious how you backwashed yours and what it looked like.

I know everyone who backwashed their oil cooler and didn't get the crude out of the coolant system, got great improvement in their deltas for less than 1000 miles ..... Then the deltas returned to where they were before the backflush.

 

05+ had the updated water pump in them. Bulletproof diesel is who sells the metal impeller pump.

 

While we a re talking water pumps. If you have time you may want to
pull it and check the housing behind it for any cavitation evidence on
the back side. If you find a lot that that could be one of the reasons.
Also it was said before I think but pull the host coming from the intake
to the degas and but in a clean bucket and see how the flow looks. That
can give you an idea on how well the pump is moving fluid.

Sean

 

Does the updated Water pump have Metal Impellar?? I thinking all the Auto Zone and Oreillys pep boy all there Water [pumps are metal impellar and might be alittle cheaper then BPD

Althought the BPD may have a Sweet Bearing in it IDK


I thought it was still plastic just a Little bit bigger with 1 more Fin


IMO the Updated WP was a BUST cause it really needed a Metal impellar


IMO the Cooling system in these Shed Heat EXCELLENT in these trucks REGAURDLESS of Water Pump Size Waist of time to change Front cover and Water Pump

Just a few catches the Thermostat and Fan even the EGR Valve needs to ALL be Working

 

Iirc the 05+ water pumps are just bigger and are still a plastic impeller.

 

Enduro, can you tell me how you backflushed the oil cooler? I've never done it and want to know how others do it.

 

When my first oil cooler failed, I put the Bulletproof EGR cooler and stock Ford oil cooler in. I took it to a shop to do the swap, and instructed them to do the complete flush. I also installed an Atlas 40 FICM from Ed at that time, and installed my Insight CTS.

After a short while, the EOT/ECT delta started to grow. In talking with Ed, he pointed me in the right direction for a proper flush, and I did it myself. It seems the shop probably didn't do a thorough enough job, or certainly not as thorough as I did, since I had to fork over the $1300 in parts and $1200 labor the first time...

Doing Ed's flush bought me some time, and about 18 months later the next oil cooler was starting to fail with 20-30* deltas. I bit the bullet and got the HD Bulletproof Oil Cooler and most of the time EOT is lower than ECT now. Very rarely is ECT above EOT and if so, not by much.

Don't have many miles on the Bulletproof setup, but it seems to be working well. Even though it was expensive, I did it myself so I "saved" the $1200 in labor that I paid the first time...

 

I back-flushed my cooling system by hooking the garden hose to the vent line coming from the egr cooler to the degas bottle.
I disconnected the line at the degas bottle and let her flow with the block drains open and lower radiator hose disconnected.

In my opinion my cooling system was "clean" as I had deltas of 5-7 f at 65mph, I had flushed with FleetGuard Restore due to a failed thermostat at approx 90,000 mi. I was quite amazed to see the debris come out during the reverse flush.

I currently have over 185,000 mi. with original coolers, I also installed a coolant filter at approx 105,000 mi.

 

Good stuff!

 

how do you know that the water pump is in good shape?my Whole inpemlar was completely off of the spindle not turning at all and I didn't know it from looking good.

 

Good stuff!