Been while. Sorry about that.
Update:
Frame mostly now boxed. Few more pieces to weld on. Body temporarily rested to frame, new engine/trans & IFS mounted. Believe going to try 32" column. Will soon find out if did something wrong.
Next need to figure out headers. Looking to be long road figuring what will fit best.

 

What's wrong with the headers that are on it? They are good ones, factory designed for street use. Have them high temp powder coated.

 

Factory headers are fine but have future engine gain dreams. Thought was doing it now may be the smart route.

 

I agree with AX...those headers are sweet. Any small gain that you think that you may gain from different headers will be lost when it comes to price and fitment. Take a look in my gallery if you want to see what kind of trouble you can get into with a C4 IFS and "normal" headers.

 

Pics are good. Thx Charlie!

 

Those headers will work better than basic block huggers even for most normally aspirated mods up to about 650 HP, especially for street applications/RPM ranges/thru mufflers. Racing headers will only see a small gain near/at redline but will likely produce a loss at off idle to street shift points.

 

Hello,
looks like a great build, but I am interested to know how you are going to strengthen your frame with those big cutouts for your IFS?

 

That's what I was wondering also .
That's something I doubt an engineer would pass for rego here in Australia .

 

I'd suggest adding a piece of 2x3" 1/8" wall rectangular tubing on top the frame from the front to as far rearward as practical past the notches (at least 6" or to the center of the crossmember) with tapered closed ends, I assume the smaller top notch is for the swaybar?

 

Looking great. I stuck with the stock headers as I could find no real gain to be had for the extra cost.

 

This is what happens when projects go into limbo for to long.
Want to thank you all for directing attention to cut outs. Seems the guys for some reason put sway bar on other side. Don't know what happened but will have to fix that. Pic below was plan found here some where in beginning of year. Strengthening plates will also be added to both sides.



Thx for header advise also. With stock headers this is where lands.
Possibly long tube headers or just different break pedal setup





Also working on IRS if interested.

 

Any good muffler shop worthy of the name should be able to cut off that collector and turn it downwards, altho I would go for hanging pedals.

Note that adding a doubler or two to thicken the vertical web of the frame will do very little to improve up-down bending strength. Doublers are used to spread stress front to back, such as over a splice. adding vertical height to the web to return it to it's original height above the notches is the proper fix, just like when deep notching the rear of the frame:




Note that doublers shown here are used to act as boxing plates on inside of frame (assuming rear of frame is not boxed) If frame was boxed a section of square or rectangular tubing welded to the top of the frame would serve the same purpose.

In your example picture it looks like the swaybar and the tie rod goes thru holes in the vertical web that do not touch the horizontal web (possibly with a tube added, altho I believe the sway bar is going to require more clearance around it), the horizontal flanges were not cut. You can cut a lot of holes in the vertical web without weakening the structure IF you leave a portion of the web intact above and below the hole and don't cut the horizontal web. Cutting lightening holes in vertical web of frame, front axle etc. is a time honored method of removing weight without weakening the structure.

PS: I'd be very surprised if your frame DIDN'T warp from welding the notch linings.

 

Thx AX for drawing & effort. All weight stress is behind cut outs but will weld something once custom inner fenders are figured in.
Current sway bar location seems ideal for now and will modify end links.

 

What is the sway bar going to mount to up there?

 

About ready to measure up wheels but not before Adirondack show.