I changed my 4.6 3 valve plugs about a month ago, following Ford's TSB to the letter. I got lucky and got all 8 out on a 100,000 motor. Currently I'm having a few CEL issues so I'm back looking at things. I plan on changing COP's so I pulled the plugs last night. Much to my suprise there was not a lick on anti-seize left on any of the plugs. I followed the TSB coating the lower part of the plug (motorcraft nickel anti-seize) to help with future problems. So is this anti-seize just burning off anyways?? A couple plugs already showed signs of light carbon build in spots. Just wondering if it's worth using if it's just going to burn off, possibly cause fouling/misfire? Just thinking.......

 

This might be the can of worms being opened!

I use nickel-based anti-seize on my 5.4 plugs, basically lightly coating the entire thread, being careful to keep the electrode clean of it and anything else too. Of course I slowly torque the plugs to 23 ft/lbs and have not had any issues what so ever. (Mentioned only because whether to use anti-seize or not tends to bring about diagreements---just stating what *I* do. )

Yes its worth using it since there will be a residual amount left in the plug holes which is fine. IF its being burned away it would seem to me the threads aren't fully engaged (faulty plug body or head), you'd have noticeable leakage around the plug bases.

If the anti-seize were fouling your plugs there would be residue on the electrodes, also noticeable after a few thousand or more miles.

IMHO while the plugs platinum plating is said to stop the steel bodies from seizing in the aluminum head I'm hard pressed to understand (or accept) anti-seize isn't a good idea. I change plugs at 50K miles which helps too as they'd never ever go the touted 100K miles and still be fuel efficient.

With my method (learned mostly here on FTE) I've yet to have plugs blow out or even lose torque over their service life.

Hope this helps?

 

Thanks JWA, My new COP's arrive today so I'll be putting everything back together. I plan on recoating the end of the plugs again, I sure don't want the stress about changing them out again. I don't put any on the threads and I carefully torque to 23#. As you suggest, the next change will be 30K or less. Thanks for the response.

 

You didn't put any anti seize on the threads and this is the way Ford claims to do it?

 

TSB recommends anti-sieze on the plug where it extends down into the head, careful not to get any on the electrode, not the threads. This is the 3 valve motor with the 2 piece plug.

 

Tater,

Your on the right track man! Very small amount of anti seize on the plug threads, I apply it carefully with a large Q-tip then wipe off any excess, so it's basically only in the thread recesses'. Also use dielectric grease applied to the plug ceramic where it contacts the new COP boots.

Basically what JWA said. IF you follow that you won't go wrong and when you do that job again in another 50K it should be easy going. I've never gone the factory recommendation of 100K, never broke a plug and never used a lisle extractor.

Good luck and post back results, curious what a new set of M/C cops are costing these days.

 

Found the Motorcraft COP's for just over $40 ea. The local parts store wanted the same price for a aftermarket "generic" one. You are right, I plan on changing plugs every 15,000-20,000, I'm not going to go through all this hassle again. Cheap insurance.

 

Maybe a bit after the fact but a local Ford dealer told me Motor Craft now has a "value line" so make sure things like your COP's are the better quality.

Plugs will go 50K miles and still be just fine. They last at least that long---changing them more often is an expense that's not all that beneficial relative to the cost and time involved.

Adding to your cheap insurance is the boots and their proper sealing to the plug body. Paying attention there, changing them when they begin looking sketchy or suspect hits you about $5 each; NAPA/Belden USA-made p/n:702418.

Glad you found most info here helpful----that's most of our goal I believe

 

The COP's I picked up online came in motorcraft sealed packages and had the exact same part number as the originals on the vehicle. Hopefully they are original replacements. If you shop around the price varies from $40-80 each. Local repair shop quoted almost $100 each. It pays to shop around. Thanks for all the helpful information, I ended up saving a bundle doing this myself.

 

I had a very bad miss and drove the truck to my mechanic, no CEL was showing. It turned out to be cop 6. I needed it back asap so he installed a cop from NAPA, where he buys many of his parts. The coil cost me $ 85! He's been honest for years, NAPA is expensive. I needed some tune up parts and ordered a spare COP from my mail order Ford dealer in NV and one from Advance Auto Parts with a 30% discount code. Both were in the low $40 range. Both COP'S were Motorcraft ones.

Whimsey