Need help identifying and locating an accelerator linkage for my 67 250 352

 

I'm curious to know what prompted your question... Is it missing?

I simplified mine by deleting the bell crank bolted to the manifold. Now I only have one rod between the gas pedal arm and the carburetor. I think I have the parts somewhere.....An OEM configuration should look like this:

 

that's a good pix of the stock linkage...hit the boneyards, you'll prob find one. they come off with one bolt. silver, post a pix of your modified linkage.

 

I am rebuilding to stock as much as possible. I would like to see a pix of the modified linkage in case I can't find one if you wouldn't mind.
Thanks

 

Fashizzle....I would if I could but I left my memory card in my PC at the office.

See above. I'll be in the area and will swing by my office later today to get the card and then post a pic.

BRB....

 

On the way back home, I went and bought a new LED computer monitor.. ahhh.. MUCH better!

Below is the pic of my 70. I have moved the breather hose out of the way for a clearer shot. The 2100 carb and intake will eventually go away fto make way for an Edelbrock intake and FAST EFI....

The rod and clips are from my 68 Mustang.' had to put a mild bend to correct the angle. There are other options on the market - 1) first is a billet rod with heim joints.. about $60; and 2) Head to your local hardware store and pick up some steel rod and a couple of small heim joints. Cut the rod to length, cut some threads for the heim joints, assemble, and bolt it on... about $15.



Stock:


Or a $12.95 kit:1964-1973 MUSTANG PARTS / MUSTANG ENGINE / MUSTANG CARBURETORS, LINKAGE & SPACERS / MUSTANG CARBURETOR LINKAGE -- Sacramento Mustang Online Store

 

I took that squirel cage completely off and used the single adjustable rod from a 70's truck and bolted on a ball stud to the carb from a holley. Couldn't be more simple and no bushings to wear out.

I get what you mean by keeping it stock but you would also be using a genuine ford truck part by using either of the solutions posted here!

 

Thanks, I appreciate the help you can find on the forums. My son and I are just about finished with the Mechanical reconditioning, this was the last item to take care of. The '67 Camper Special is at the Body Shop getting a really nice make over and will be ready for my son on his 16th Birthday. I was kinda hoping he would take my 2000 Ford F150 and let me keep this one.

 

Which ever way you go just remember to use a dual throttle return spring setup for safety.

 

Great, simple solution. Makes you wonder why Ford used the old trapeze setup anyway? Lookin at that stock pic...what is the other rod that looks like it runs into the cab? I should know this, I know my truck has one, but can't remember what it is or what it does or what it connects to.

 

It's the kickdown linkage to the automatic transmission.

 

Yeah, i see the kickdown linkage...but what is the shorter rod behind it?...runs from the trapeze/linkage and goes back to or into the firewall.

 

I don't recall it doing anything. I think it only prevented the trapeze linkage from rotating... a brace.

The original set-up has too many moving parts and why I simplified it.

 

Sir, I have a 68 f100 that was originally a standard shift, without the stabilizing linkage it is very hard to drive as the throttle will pull itself open when you let out the clutch,I almost wrecked my truck when I changed it to a 4 barrel and was in a hurry to try it out,needless to say I found out the hard way what it was for. The next day I made new rods .I now have a c6 in it and still have the original linkage on it. With a automatic it is not as critical.Kenny Nunez

 

I don't see the kickdown linkage on your simplified setup... Is this linkage not needed?