1997-2006 Expedition & Navigator 1997 - 2002 and 2003 - 2006 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator Discussion

Coolant Crossover Tube/Intake Manifold leak and replacement

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Old 08-05-2013, 03:18 PM
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Coolant Crossover Tube/Intake Manifold leak and replacement

My wifes 2000 Expy just a sprung a coolant LEAK! It's leaking at the passenger side valve cover/right out of the metal crossover where it joins with the intake.

I have researched and found that the '97-99 used and entire aluminum intake and then Ford revised their "composite" Plastic intake after 2003. I also found I have to completely REMOVE the intake and replace it as a WHOLE assembly..??? Ford??? Seriously??? I love Ford's but this Triton motor is becoming my last Ford product I ever touch.

Ranting over..Still irritated...

I found a complete '97-99 aluminum intake for the 5.4 on Ebay and want to know if I can purchase it in place of the Composite intake. I have heard and from what I was looking, Aluminum is getting hard to find.
 
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:06 PM
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I would compare them closely and if they match other than in the material they're made from, then go for it.
 
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:36 PM
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cross over leak

Originally Posted by timbersteel
My wifes 2000 Expy just a sprung a coolant LEAK! It's leaking at the passenger side valve cover/right out of the metal crossover where it joins with the intake.

I have researched and found that the '97-99 used and entire aluminum intake and then Ford revised their "composite" Plastic intake after 2003. I also found I have to completely REMOVE the intake and replace it as a WHOLE assembly..??? Ford??? Seriously??? I love Ford's but this Triton motor is becoming my last Ford product I ever touch.

Ranting over..Still irritated...

I found a complete '97-99 aluminum intake for the 5.4 on Ebay and want to know if I can purchase it in place of the Composite intake. I have heard and from what I was looking, Aluminum is getting hard to find.


i have been dreading this on my '98. Please post back when done and let us know what you did to fix.
thanks
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:19 PM
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I have a few other questions..

Does anything else need to be addressed after removing the intake manifold? I'd like to address any further PM's while I'm this far into the repair.
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
I have a few other questions..

Does anything else need to be addressed after removing the intake manifold?
There is a coolant tube that runs under the intake, be sure to inspect that. There is also a coolant connection between the upper and lower intakes where the o-ring tends to fail. Lastly, I would change the spark plugs while the intake is out. They are much easier to access without the intake there.
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:25 PM
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I found a "chunk" of hard plastic in the thermostat housing. I'm gonna try to post pics of it and the leak so it may help others.

The Expedition has 201,XXX miles and have no idea about when plugs were last changed. Do I need to order the tool for broken spark plugs before attempting to remove them. I have time so its not like it gonna be down because I break one, but want to be prepared for the worst.

Thanks again for your timely replies Alloro.
 
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:31 AM
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If you're in no rush to get it up and running I wouldn't order the tool unless you end up needing it. But that's really your call as to whether or not it's worth the cost to have it just in case.
 
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:12 AM
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Does spark plug choice really matter on this engine? Motorcraft, Bosch, Autolite? Should I use Copper or Nickel Anti-Seize on the threads?
13-ft. lbs. the Torque spec for the plugs?
 
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:55 AM
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Update: Just popped out #5, it's an AutoLite. Looked rather well, showing about .067 gap.

I had let the plugs sit over night in a PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench Formula, to aid in removing. Took less than a minute to remove it, but I'm sure that #3 and #4 will be totally different.

Also is it worth removing the valve covers, and buying the tool to check the rocker arms and the lash adjusters? I could use new valve covers gaskets, but the wifey isn't happy that she doesn't have a vehicle anymore either...
 
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:07 AM
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IMO, the plugs last 100K miles, so go with the Motorcraft ones and then forget about them. Using other brands could cut into the 100K replacement milestone and force you to have to replace them sooner.

Also, I would only remove the valve covers if they're leaking oil or the valve train is making noise. Otherwise, you could end up doing extra work for nothing while pissing off the wife in the process.
 
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:47 AM
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Thanks again Alloro! Yeah..she's not a happy camper.

Also, is it best to use copper or aluminum Anti-seize and is it 13 ft. lbs on the plugs?
 
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
Thanks again Alloro! Yeah..she's not a happy camper.

Also, is it best to use copper or aluminum Anti-seize and is it 13 ft. lbs on the plugs?
Use aluminum anti-seize.

According to the workshop manual, spark plug torque specs are any of the following that you prefer to use:

78-176 in. lbs.
9-20 Nm
6.5-14.67 ft. lbs.

I like to use 13 ft. lbs. because that's what is shows on the actual procedure page in the workshop manual, which I've attached as a PDF.
 
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2000 Spark Plugs.pdf (26.7 KB, 221 views)
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:04 PM
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Once again, thanks Alloro! Will update this when completed and running well.
 
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:17 PM
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Got another question...the aluminum water jacket where the leak occurred, corroded some and now the surface isn't smooth and level. Will this be ok when installing the new manifold, or should I get some black RTV silicone gasket sealer and fill the gap/depression in?
 
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:02 PM
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Any thoughts.. I know the new intake has a rubber gasket installed, but worried about the gap the corrosion left.
 


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