Marauder, congratulations!
And it sounds like you beat me by an hour or so to get yours to start first.
Don't they sound great?!!
I'll start another thread and see if I can post a video.
Tom

 

congrats to you too! They do have a distinct sound! Let's see some video of that jewel you have.

 

Sorry for bringing this back when it had settled down to 3rd page, but I wanted to answer the question and most importantly give future searchers a "rough 'in the field' timing guide"

So looking at the photo (far left, center - highlighted by sunlight) you can see the damper's timing mark is a circle - I called this a timing pip - not the "mark" I am used to on everything else Ford (thin but very definite line)... see in the pic (bottom right) how the rotor points almost perfectly at the red mark on the dizzy body. I took red sharpie and marked my dizzy on the casting seam, there's a very definite casting seam there. Straight behind that casting seam is the oiler pip I mentioned - little flip top covered spot for lubing the dizzy.

In the field with no timing light you can at least start there, and I about guarantee that is "close enough" to get it to at least stumble to life - tune it by ear, lock it down then drive it to the shop where you can use the timing light proper.

 

Yea my dad was a mechanic by trade and was always tinkering on old Flatheads when I was a kid. We would go out and pull them after dark on backroads. I always got the car being pulled and they always started although sometimes we pulled them for several miles. Those are some of my fondest memories as a child, and no I never run into the back of the pull car.

 

Another method I have used to time both 8BAs and H / M series sixes:
1. Line up the crank pulley / vibration damper bump with the timing cover pointer. You may advance it a few degrees based on your altitude, type of fuel available, etc.
2. Pull the distributor cap and rotor.
3. Loosen the distributor clamp bolt.
4. Retard the timing as far as it will go on the distributor without damaging the vacuum line. Your points should be closed. If your points are open you have a problem.
5. Turn on your ignition switch.
6. Have your wrench in your hand ready to tighten the distributor clamp bolt.
7. Advance the distributor slowly until you see a spark at the points. This will happen when the points first open. Stop moving the distributor. If you aren't sure if you moved the distributor, back it up and do it again. Repeat as necessary to ensure you know when the points open.
8. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt without moving the distributor.
9. Reinstall your rotor and cap.
10. Smile. Your engine is now timed properly and you don't need a timing light.

 

I always do the same, except on #7 I put a piece of notebook paper between the contacts and close the points. Then bring the Distributor back till I can just pull the paper freely. My Auto Shop teacher showed me that in 1967.....

 

Greetings. I too have a '49 F1 with the 226 that I bought in August. The weekend I brought it home I hooked up a 12V battery and rolled the engine over just to confirm that it would. Just this weekend, after installing new points, condenser, rotor and a 12V coil I added a little gas to the carb and cranked her over. I got fire, and it "tried" to run. After about 20 seconds of cranking I quit and fiddled with the carb a bit before trying again. However the starter would not turn over. I have plenty of juice, but can't get it to crank Any ideas? I loved the audio by the way!

 

I would take jumper cables hook them up and ground the negative and touch the positive directly on the stud on the starter the positive connects to. If if won't turn that way it's most likely the starter, you could try rocking the truck back and fourth to make sure the engine is still free. When I first tried to fire my 226 It kept doing that and I found the flywheel bolts had come loose and the ring gear was dragging in there. Personally I like to always use Starting Fluid it always seems to work better for me.

 

Just got back from a road trip and before I put my battery back in my driver I tried the F1 again. Still no movement, but I noticed the dipstick moves slightly when I put power to the starter. I have the truck up on stands, no box, no fenders, no doors, etc., etc., so I have put a ratchet on the dampener bolt and the engine turns freely. I'm thinking I will pull the starter, open things up enough to see the ring gear and such.

 

DougofMontana I'm curious did you change the motor oil, if the engine is very cold you might have a problem with the oil being to thick

 

I have a heated garage... stays a balmy 62 degrees

 

I had a similar experience with my F4 when I was trying to get it to start- at one point thes starter would just not respond. No click, no turn, almost as if there was no battery connected. I removed it, connected power to it on my shop floor and it came to life and slung across the floor! I put it back on and it has worked fine since. I don't know what the issue was, but I would guess there was a connection issue on either the hot or ground that I probably could have discovered without removing it.

 

Fellas, really hate to bring this one back up but....
Tried for the first time to fire the 226 yesterday. She really tried to start, at one point stumbled for about 6-8 seconds before dying. Really think its a timing issue. In earlier posts, it is mentioned the "bump, "circle", "o" is on the face of the harmonic balancer, not a line on the edge of fan pulley like most Fords? I can see a mark on pulley (faint), but I"m thinking this isn't the same? Unfortunately earlier images posted via photobucket are so blurry they are useless now. If someone could post a picture of this "bump" it would be helpful. My lighting in the shop, coupled with a hood that doesn't go up very high make seeing a challenge. many thanks!

 

Is this what you're looking for?

 

If it is like the V8's, the "bump" looks like a rounded rivet head.