Anyone have a diagram or maybe even a CAD for the input end of a 3.03? I'm working with a HEF but input dimensions and bolt pattern are identical? As my research has shown... feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Moreover, a diagram or CAD file (that you made or even concise measurements of the front face would be much appreciated. I have had little success in locating any such illustration.

 

Drawings, parts lists etc.

Flathead Parts Drawings-Transmissions

IIRC, which is questionable, the input bearing holder will have the same bolt pattern, but may vary in length depending on application. (BB/SB, Car/Truck)

Comparing the part number from a car box vs truck vs sb or six vs BB will give a clue to variations.

Not exactly what you need here but the best I can do. Are you doing a rebuild or something beyond the usual r & r with new parts?

 

Lot of very useful parts explosion drawing there. Thank you for that. What I am trying to locate is a map of the input face of the 3.03. (Bellhousing mounting surface). Moreover, I am attempting to determine something that I am fairly certain is true. Is the input shaft centered on the hole in the bell-housing? Yeah, it LOOKS like the input shaft is centered but when it comes to machining an adapter plate to mount an electric motor in place of the original 170 I6 in my 1965 Econoline while KEEPING the three-in-the-tree transmission and clutch (what can I say, I'm nostalgic) I really need to be sure. I am trying to NOT have to disassemble it YET. The entire project is an EV conversion basically pulling the 170 I6 in favor of a 165HP 3-phase electric motor. 60-80 more HP than the original 170 and nearly 235 lbs LIGHTER.

And for all the purists out there, I feel ya. But I want to be able to run my Econoline like a daily driver without the incessant mechanical tweaking that an aging ICE requires. The plans include major revamping of suspension and braking systems as well... basically a 1965 Econoline workhorse but equipped to run efficiently and economically in the modern day.

So, as I said, I can GET the information by separating my 3.03 from the 170 in the van... I was just looking to see if the info was available before I started tearing it down so my machinist can get to work.

 

Why keep a clutch? Connect the motor to the input shaft via a single u-joint. Alingment issues will be handled by the u-joint.

With respect to concentricity: The input shaft must be in the center of the hole of the bell housing.

Keeping a flywheel and clutch centered without the solid assembly of bell to block will be a challenge. You don't need either with the electric motor.

How many batteries are you going to have to carry to run that motor? And the motor likes variable speeds/loads, right?

 

I am intrigued! Please keep us posted on this project.

I expect I will have to overhaul the 4.0L v6 in my Aerostar in the near future, but have thought about an electric conversion. The transmission I would have to mate it to a an A4LD, and I've read of the problems with trying to run an electric motor in front of an automatic, like starting from 0 rpm at "idle" may take some time for the pump to build pressure.

 

Yes, true and that would be the simple and easy way to do it. But as I mentioned earlier, I feel for the purists because I am one on most days and so I would hate to lose the "three-in-the-tree" AND the meager but eager 170 I-6 at the same time. Besides, doing the gear ratio and output calculations would let me cruise surface streets in FIRST, Interstates and highways in SECOND, and BE STUPID in THIRD! I mean an entire gear for it! But I do understand and know that running the electric motor directly is always an option. I HAVE gotten this project started albeit, the funding is going to be a little slower in coming given all this virus stuff. (When your career is based on live entertainment, this #$%^& SUCKS!) The adapter is being made. I will post pictures and updates as they happen. And thanks to those whose input has already been provided. It is always graciously accepted.