If you are still at a point where cutting and drilling etc isn't a problem (not in finished paint) I'd seriously consider the modern latches. There's a guy on FTE and the HAMB who lives near me (38Chevy454) that sells these latches for a very good price. I don't remember the brand but they are Made in US, and he has two types that look good. Doesn't appear they'd need a lot of work to fit to our trucks. AFAIK they have an easily-adaptable locking mechanism (for remote electric locking).

 

Ross,
I will follow up on those latches. I did remove and take a look at both of the original latches for Willard. Your previous thought is also a good one. The ability to modify both the locking and the non locking latches to allow a solenoid to push up to lock and pull down to unlock by modifying the locker just below where the key operated shaft locks the passenger door and then building in a similar feature on the non locker looks attractive. The linear motion required is only about 1/2". I need to better understand what is available in solenoid linear actuators.

 

The actuators I am most familiar with are those used on Mustang Fox-bodies and SN95's. They are not a solenoid but a motorized screw with over-running clutches. I think they would be perfect. Although the reason I am familiar with them is they seem to go out frequently...

 

Ross,
I took apart the key lock area on the locker side. I really think that the idea that you had will work well on both door latches by welding a few pieces to the bottom of the latches with a sliding piece of flat stock which connects to the motorized linear actuator. I am about to order a universal setup including the motorized actuators control box and remotes. They are really cheap (china stuff) which leads me to believe that is the same or lesser quality motors that you found to fail in the fox bodies. I called Spal since they have a decent reputation. Theirs is more money and I was told that their actuators are made in Italy. Probably better than China, at least of Fiat quality!

 

I'm anxious to see how it works! I'm tied up with my wipers at the moment but locking doors is a big item on my list.

PS I think Spal was the name on the Mustang pieces... in fairness, they seemed to get wet a lot.

 

As Ross showed, the bear claw style latches have the dimensions as shown and they are very easy to adapt to solenoids. The release force on my latches is about 1-2 lbs. You do not need any high power solenoids.

As for the question on solenoids vs actuators, I would use solenoids unless you need a lot of travel. For the latches i sell, the travel is about 0.25 inch to release. I recommend to customers to go to the junkyard and get some OEM door lock solenoids. More than strong enough and should be a lot better quality than any aftermarket made in China junk. I like the old 70's cars for potential donors, made before the mfrs started outsourcing offshore and getting cheap on suppliers.

As to hooking up the stock latch to lock by solenoids, all you need is to hook up via cable or rod, some type linkage to operate the locking. It may need two solenoids to lock and then unlock. The beauty of using solenoids to release the latch is they are locked every time you close the door, assuming the outer handle is not hooked up. This can work for stock latches as well as the bear claw latches.

I like keeping the stock outer handle, but not hooked up to the latch. Just there as a handle to grab onto. Plus keeps the stock appearance which in my view is why we like these old trucks. I also typically make the stock inner handle to be hooked up to the latch so you can open from inside without needing to operate the solenoid.

If you go with solenoids to release the latch, or even for just the locking lever on stock latch, always provide a back-up switch or cable in case of dead battery or wireless remote system failure.

Feel free to PM me with any questions, Terry

 

Terry,
Thanks for the info. I am at the point that the cab on my 49 is in final paint but not the doors. I drove Willard for a number of years with the stock latches and never had a problem. My initial attempt will be to modify the original latches to incorporate power locking. I think that what Ross suggested can be made to work. I would need either push/pull solenoids (or 2 solenoids as you suggest) or the motor driven linear actuator WITH a clutch mechanism. I think that with a clutch mechanism, I may be able to retain the standard key lock feature on the passenger door and it would be capable of opening the passenger door with the key in the event of loss of power, loss of the remote or other failures with the door locked.
If this plan does not work, I will go with the new latches that you sell.
Do you know if some of the later model car door locks (motor type) normally would have a clutching mechanism? My bet is that the ccc does not have a clutch.

 

Terry, I didn't realize that your latches don't have provisions for an internal release? Looks like they need vertical motion to unlatch?

 

Apologies, but have not seen your email. My friend that did work on my truck bought this kit off eBay. He installed it for me. I can ask him what kit he bought, but it really works well. To lock the doors from the inside I just push the handle opposite of opening the door. I don't remember what it cost , but was pretty inexpensive.

 

F-100's are real different than F-1's

 

I decided to pass on the ccc actuators and ordered a setup with a Swiss made actuators with the clutch arrangement. Since it is coming from So. Cal. it will be a while. I have plenty to do in the mean time.

 

Well, I have made some progress installing power locks using a blocking action as suggested by Ross. I have the passenger side close to completion. I really wanted to retain the ability to lock/unlock with the key. Retaining the key capability is far and away the biggest challenge. I also wanted to retain the original inside locking capability which I have. I have looked at how to do the drivers side (no key lock) and that will be easy by comparison.
Since I have power windows, power locks and I would like to install speakers in the door panels, I stated to count # of wires needed. I currently am set up with one ss braided door conduit on each side. I am afraid that I may need a second conduit.
I will post pictures when I get the modifications to the latches complete. I currently have more ***** in the air on Willard than I can juggle!

 

91490[/ATTACH]Pictures of my mods to the passenger door latch incorporating power locks while maintaining the key lock capability.
The 6 pictures are the passenger side latch starting with the original and then showing the mods. With these modifications the ability to lock from inside of the cab is also maintained.

 

Sooo, if you edit my quote from your post all of the evidence will be gone and nobody has to know.

 

EDIT
Like it never happened, but it will happen!