I have an cpo 08' job 2 f350 cc/lb bought with 68,800 on the clock salesman told me the mechanics at his dealership believe in the 3,000 mile oil change for these trucks? Do you think it has to do with oil dilllution that they know is happening? I dont mind spending the money on the truck but is it worth it ? Or could i wait till 5,000 miles ? Curious very curious?

 

that's overkill.....Plus Salesmen (most) don't know JACK about cars or trucks.......they only sell. Here's the link to pdf maintenance schedule....
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_fy...it?usp=sharing


Page 4 is the info you requested above

 

EXACTLY.... I've entertained the idea of trading my 6.4 in for a 6.7 a few times and each time I go to the dealer, I get a liar for a sales guy. I act somewhat uneducated to see what they'll say and I wish I had a hidden camera or microphone. They just feed you a bunch of BS... The one time I did expose my knowledge of these trucks, the sales guy gave me the key and said take it for the weekend... He knew he wasn't going to BS me....

Back to OP..... 3,000 is crazy. 5,000 is fine. It wouldn't hurt to run an Oil Analysis a few times over the next 20,000 miles... Maybe one at 2,500 miles, Mid OCI to see how the oil is holding up.... Heck, if your OA's/TBN come back good you may consider stretching OCI a little. Maybe 6,000 or 7500 depending on your dilution. Lots of people are able to get dilution down to <.05% like myself, Senix, Slowmans, etc.

 

Agreed with all above. 3k is a little short. Get a sample at 2.5k and another at 5k and send it to Blackstone. For 25 bucks, for each sample, you will have answers. Post it here, these folks can give you a "real world" analysis. Also watch your dipstick. Use the short stick method as you can see it better. You can tell if you are making a lot or not. I have marked my dipstick right after an oil change so I know the right level, then watch it from there. My experience is that idling makes more oil than my regens as I try to always drive my regens out.

 

I run 5K oil changes and 10K fuel filter changes using OEM only filters and I run the Motorcraft 15-40wt year round.

Seems to do well.

 

I agree with senix.

Also before a long trip and if I'm between 3-5K miles I go ahead and change the oil.

Save the money and go to 5K and spend the little extra cash on Coolant and Trans filters and maybe a few add on coolers.

In Texas at 98 degrees no load I'm hitting 210 on my oil with the coolant temp hitting 198. To me that's a little high and would like it lower. Almost hitting the 15 degree problem..

 

I have a Fumoto Valve and if I'm pushing the end of my OCI, I'll drain 4 Qts and add a fresh 4 Qts. ONLY if my trip isn't planned to put me over my 5,000 mile interval.

I'm in Texas too... Past few days of 98+ and my EOT never surpasses 205 while empty.

 

I had a dilution problem when truck was stock. Ran as high as 6% on the blackstone reports and of course with that much dilution I was getting a lot of metal wear. I stayed at 5000 mile changes but installed a fumoto valve and at every 1000 mile interval between changes I drained down to one quart low, and added a quart. That improved my reports a good bit. The hard part was figuring out how to read the dip stick and when I had drained to a quart low. So, send in a sample and see what you get for results. If it's diluted this works, but deleting works a lot better.

 

Thanks to everybody for the responses and info.i will be looking into the blackstone report.i felt that i'd be okay with 5,000 mile changes,i always drive it during regen till it completes it and do some mixed driving and towing. thanks again and when i do the report i'll be sure to post results for some good insight.

 

I use blackstone, I am deleted and tuned and run Mobil 1 5W-40 and have been changing it 6500 mile intervals my last 2 runs, my UOA's are great and have been told I could easily go 7500-8000 miles on the oil but i am not comfortable with that. A UOA is the only way to tell.

 

Question: What issues have you had with the fumoto valve? After reading the thread and discovering what a fumoto valve is, I did some research and I am wondering which fumoto to order. The valve with or without the nipple?
2010 F250 4x4 Lariet
no mods

 

mrgreen, I just keep switching my fumoto valve from one truck to the next. The valve I used on my '06 6.0 is the same as the one on my '09 6.4. Hope that helps. The oil comes out a bit slower than if you pulled the plug, but is more manageable by being able to close it to take samples, swap oil pans if you only had smaller ones, not chance stripping threads, etc. I do my own oil changes, but any time I have brought it to the dealer where they needed to drop the oil, I have noticed they remove it and put it back in (not in the same angle from where I installed it). Probably because they have never seen one before and don't know what to do. That is how much confidence I have in them!

 

This is the one I ordered:

Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve Powerstroke/Cummins/Durmax

 

Thank you. I did not know that they existed. I am planning on getting one for my truck and other vehicles. I do all my oil changes on my wifes car and plan to start on my truck. Question: do you have the hose clip attached to your valve for extra safety or do you leave it as is?
mrgreencms
2010 F250 4x4
no mods

 

I just run mine as it is.