1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

WOOD FLATBED BUILD - 3D MODEL AND CONSTRUCTION PLANS

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  #46  
Old 06-27-2013, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RAY1986F150
This is exactly why I started this thread, for everyone's ideas! You guys have given me some good ones. Wade, I really like how the side rails on yours come up above the deck. I imagine that would be good for helping loads stay put from side to side. Have you had any problems with it sticking up like that? Only positive remarks? I may try working that concept into my design if you think its a good thing to have.
I did that for that very reason. Makes the load stay in and not have to worry about it sliding out. I kept them low so I wouldnt lose the side loading/unloading. I have thought about adding the stake side holes for it, but aside from loose loads like mulch, stone, etc it hasnt really been an issue. I have a set of the stake brackets and stakes sitting in my garage, but dont have the need yet.
The hardest part of this project, IMO, is the filler location. My original idea was to incorporate it into the box. I scrapped that idea so I can remove the box with ease. I'll be interested to see how you guys address this issue. I'll try and snap a pic tonight of the set up I have been running. Its not the greatest, and is the weak link of my build for sure.
 
  #47  
Old 06-27-2013, 12:54 PM
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One other thing that I found interesting. Going from the stock bed to this PT build, I dropped almost 300 lbs of truck weight!!! Winter here in MA means running four-six sand bags for traction now. Summer time means smokey burnouts at will
 
  #48  
Old 06-27-2013, 08:41 PM
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I think you should also consider the rear of the truck and the trailer hitch. The side boards you are using covers up some of the "business" part of the side frame area, though when I looked at buying a aftermarket flatbed for my old truck, they had dress up plates that went on the sides to cover the gaps on top of the frame to the bed.

But you still might have open gaps in the rear. I especially like that polished aluminum diamond plate you can get, though it would not be cheap. But it would look nice with the red lights in the rear, and give it a finished look in the rear, and hide the frame in the back. Something like this;

 
  #49  
Old 06-27-2013, 10:01 PM
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Dave, I planned on keeping the stock bumper in place, and building the bed up to it. That way I have a step on the back for getting up on the bed. Look at Wades photo of his Dodge, sort of like that.

You see, the trailer hitch I got from Gary mounts to my frame rails, however it is also supported by the bumper. If I remove the bumper I would have to rethink how the hitch is installed. My truck really needs a hitch, the ball on the bumper is way too high for most trailers. When I brake while towing something on the bumper the trailer load pushes up on the back of the truck and is very dangerous. The hitch lowers the tongue height to an acceptable angle and the truck brakes with the load shifting through the frame into the front brakes.

I guess I could redrill the holes in the frame and move the hitch forward, thus allowing me to attach an angle iron cross brace of some sort to support the tongue.
 
  #50  
Old 06-28-2013, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RAY1986F150
Dave, I planned on keeping the stock bumper in place, and building the bed up to it. That way I have a step on the back for getting up on the bed. Look at Wades photo of his Dodge, sort of like that.

You see, the trailer hitch I got from Gary mounts to my frame rails, however it is also supported by the bumper. If I remove the bumper I would have to rethink how the hitch is installed. My truck really needs a hitch, the ball on the bumper is way too high for most trailers. When I brake while towing something on the bumper the trailer load pushes up on the back of the truck and is very dangerous. The hitch lowers the tongue height to an acceptable angle and the truck brakes with the load shifting through the frame into the front brakes.

I guess I could redrill the holes in the frame and move the hitch forward, thus allowing me to attach an angle iron cross brace of some sort to support the tongue.
Whoa whoa whoa.....Wade DOES NOT have a Dodge!!! That is a 2000 FORD F350!!!!

I do like Franklins suggestion about the rear bumper. My bed ends where the factory bumper begins. Yes, it makes for easy step up, but I do wish I had another 6-12" of bed at times. Those solid bumpers would allow for it. I dont have the welding skills or the $$$ for one myself, but it would be nicer than the OEM bumper as far as looks go.

I think I'm up to around 50cents worth of 2 cent ideas now.
 
  #51  
Old 06-28-2013, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by WADE MMT/PSD
Whoa whoa whoa.....Wade DOES NOT have a Dodge!!! That is a 2000 FORD F350!!!! .......
Sorry Wade, I didn't look close enough at it to realize it was a Ford. For some reason my memory was telling me it was a mid 90's Dodge. My bad.
 
  #52  
Old 06-28-2013, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RAY1986F150
Sorry Wade, I didn't look close enough at it to realize it was a Ford. For some reason my memory was telling me it was a mid 90's Dodge. My bad.
No worries
 
  #53  
Old 06-28-2013, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I think you should also consider the rear of the truck and the trailer hitch. The side boards you are using covers up some of the "business" part of the side frame area, though when I looked at buying a aftermarket flatbed for my old truck, they had dress up plates that went on the sides to cover the gaps on top of the frame to the bed.

But you still might have open gaps in the rear. I especially like that polished aluminum diamond plate you can get, though it would not be cheap. But it would look nice with the red lights in the rear, and give it a finished look in the rear, and hide the frame in the back. Something like this;

See, if I built a bed like Ray's, then just extended it out almost even with the top edge of the rear bumper on my truck, I'd have something that looked similar to that from the rear.



Pardon the old picture.
 
  #54  
Old 06-28-2013, 01:02 PM
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What do you guys think about elevating the toolbox? I might loose some storage room in the box, but I gain valuable bed length. I can slide boards and sheets and things under the toolbox. The effective length of the bed would be 100". That about 8'4" long and bring the end of the bed up to the bumper.

I don't think this looks as cool as the toolbox that goes all the way to the deck though. I need to add a board to the back side of the toolbox that prevents stuff from hitting the back of the cab when sliding.

Thoughts guys?

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  #55  
Old 06-28-2013, 01:15 PM
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Really diggin the 3D plans
IMHO the raised box makes a LOT of sense. I think it will also give you a better or easier way of mounting your fuel filler. Mine has a 4" rise to it, and havent done anything that I've needed more. 2x4's slide right under on the side or stack two.
I like where this is going
 
  #56  
Old 06-28-2013, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WADE MMT/PSD
Really diggin the 3D plans
IMHO the raised box makes a LOT of sense. I think it will also give you a better or easier way of mounting your fuel filler. Mine has a 4" rise to it, and havent done anything that I've needed more. 2x4's slide right under on the side or stack two.
I like where this is going
Good point on the fuel filler. I could mount the stock plastic box that contains the filler neck inside a small box under the toolbox. I can even hide it with a hinged 1 x 8 board as the new gas tank door.
 
  #57  
Old 06-28-2013, 01:34 PM
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If you like the look of the box on the deck why don't you just fill in the pieces on the sides?
 
  #58  
Old 06-28-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RAY1986F150
What do you guys think about elevating the toolbox? I might loose some storage room in the box, but I gain valuable bed length.
If you expect to be carting 8' loads much in the future, that would be the way to go.
The box section steel frame could be extended on down full depth of the deck, & bolted to reduce the flex caused by the space under the toolbox.

I intend making up a flatdeck for my own truck (in steel though - just because I'm an engineer by trade)............I know how the ideas start to flow & these projects take on a life of their own .
I've found that keeping weight down can start to become an issue as you plan in features, extra strength etc.
 
  #59  
Old 06-28-2013, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken Blythen
If you expect to be carting 8' loads much in the future, that would be the way to go.
The box section steel frame could be extended on down full depth of the deck, & bolted to reduce the flex caused by the space under the toolbox.

I intend making up a flatdeck for my own truck (in steel though - just because I'm an engineer by trade)............I know how the ideas start to flow & these projects take on a life of their own .
I've found that keeping weight down can start to become an issue as you plan in features, extra strength etc.
Ken, like you said, the 2x4 legs of the tool box will extend all the way down the 2 x 12's and can be bolted. You said "steel frame", but I am not sure what you are referring to because this is all wood. The bolts are a great idea. When I want to haul a tall stack of something, I can simply unbolt the toolbox and remove it so I have a true flatbed. In which case I can just make the toolbox full depth.

I am a draftsman/designer that engineers. I am not a degree'd engineer. I'm not sure why you feel the need to use steel just because you are an engineer.

I always come at projects from a practical standpoint. What are my needs? What will it carry? How much will it cost? How much can I do myself? A wood deck properly supported will carry anything the suspension on this truck is designed to carry, so there is no need for a steel deck. If you think steel looks better and want to spend all that money then I'd say go for it.

This truck is going to be retired in a couple years to do duty on my farm, and be used to haul building materials to build my log cabin. We are moving to Kentucky this year to do all this. So getting this truck ready for all that is a part of the plan.
 
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
If you like the look of the box on the deck why don't you just fill in the pieces on the sides?
Great idea!!
 


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