Not really a question in here, but just had to vent about my water pump rebuilding experience:

My 51 had a leaking water pump on the right side. I purchased a rebuild kit and found some highly recommended rebuild directions online (http://www.flatheadv8.org/Waterpump/pump.htm). So I go and get ready to remove the water pump by removing the castle nut that attaches to the engine mount. Easy peasy once I realize that I need to have a buddy on the underside keeping the engine mount stud from rotating. I then get my jack with a hefty plank in position under the oil pan so it will support the weight after the water pump is removed.<O</O
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The first retaining bolt breaks right off leaving me with about 3/8 exposed stud. Oh well, I can deal with that later. To get to the other bolts with the tools I had was not going to happen without removing the radiator, so out it came. Got all the bolts on the outside out and began an attempt on the one that hides on the inside of the inlet. No matter how I tried, I couldn't get a bite. Turns out it was never installed. After a nice whack from a hammer (through a piece of 2x4) the pump gasket gave way freeing the water pump.
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Now that the water pump is free, it is time to disassemble it. I get it in the press to remove the impeller. At first things are going okay until BANG! One of the ears on the water pump nearest the pulley snapped off causing the whole water pump to crash to the ground causing a piece to break off the pulley and the little area that holds the retainer clip to crack off.<O</O
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Not to worry, I have another old water pump somewhere that could be rebuilt. I just gotta find it. I finally put my hands on it and begin to remove the impeller. This one also broke at the ear.
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Now I am defeated. Salt is poured into the wound as nobody local has a water pump not to mention that anyone that stocks them list them as more expensive than I remember and charge pretty big core charges for which my cores may not be sufficient for now. I finally snagged a deal on eBay for a pair at just under $150, but now I have to wait at least a week for the parts to arrive before she will drive out of the garage.<O</O
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In the meantime, I was planning on taking my air wheel grinder/cutter and cut a slot in the exposed stud and then get an impact screw driver in there to get it out.<O</O
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Bummer all around. Sounds like it's time to quit for today and have yourself a frosty beverage or 6.

 

I wouldn't even try slotting the bolt to screw the remains out. Heat it with a torch til it's good and hot, let it cool, then grab it with a small pipe wrench or visegrips. Sears also sells some extractors that have worked well for friends, they look like this:
Sears.com

You pound them on, them turn.

When you get to putting it together, slather antisieze on all the bolts. Probably want to chase the threads in the block first.

 

Plus one on thread chasing / anti-seize.

 

That 's about par for the course working on these old rusted heaps .Had a nightmare experience doing the R&R on the left side king pin . The right side slide right out .No help that the PO had the locking bolt in backward .What an idiot & the truck had a repair / maintenance manual with it when purchased .