Is there one out there? My bronco does not seen to be charging and I figured what better time to do an upgrade

Also, what is the test procedure to make sure my alt is for sure bad

 

If you have a load tester you can do that but basically it is just a voltage check at the alternator under load.

As far as a write up I never found a good that really covered everything but the one linked below covers ALOT and has links to other forums to cover what is not covered in it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...doing-one.html

 

There are many threads about the 3G upgrade.
Some are stickied in the tech headings both here and the '80-'86 sub forum.

If you look on the back of your alternator you will see one of the regulator screws says "Ground Here to Test".
That will send your alternator to full output.
Otherwise, just check the voltage at idle and something like 3,000 rpm.
Then check with all the lights, fans etc.. on.

 

Right now I am putting out 9.5 volts at idle and the lights keep getting dimmer.

Anyone have a pic of the screw that I am supposed to ground? I can hardly see the alt, no less the back of it

 

Your 96 doesn't already have a 3G? I thought that 3Gs started being installed in trucks around 94.

 

After looking at that link, I think I have the 3g. Would my 96 of had that stock?

 

Pretty sure it would.
2g has a fan installed on it right between the pulley and the alternator housing. 3g has the fan built inside of it.

 

External fan = 2G, but anyway, there is no possible way you have a 2G in there stock, in 1996 they're all 3G. You just need to take some care of your alternator, replace the brushes, they're mounted on the regulator, also check the slip rings, those are the copper rings the brushes rub against, they're mounted on the stator (if you don't know about alts. get a diagram and all will make sense). Those are the usual wear items, don't run the truck like this because you risk burning the regulator, and that one is expensive (if the brushes and rings look good then it's probably the cause). If all the afore mentioned checks, then the rectifier is the next part to check.

You can determine if you have a 95A or a 130A unit easily: look at the face that houses the pulley, if there are 3 groups of 4 holes (spread 120° from each other) you have a 95A small case, if the groups are of 2 holes then congrats, you got a 130A large case.

 

If you ground the screw to full field the alternator and your voltge goes up, thet tells you the regulator is bad.... are you really gonna just replace the regulator? If you are only getting 9v running, its not charging, 99.9% of the time a new alternator will fix it. I'd just replace it, then if it still doesn't charge (.1% chance) check the wiring.
If you want to try to full field it, on the back of the alt, the black plastic thing is the regulator. I think there are 4 small torx bolts that attach it to the alt. The one that looks difffernt is the one you ground to full field the alt.

 

Not the screw, but you can see the location.

 

I know it is not charging, I just want to see if something else is wrong. I had a bunch of things apart. New cluster, fully gutted interior(dash out), and lots of sandblasting

 

I have a 200 amp T mount 3G alternator sitting in the garage.

 

If your at 9.5 volts your alternator is in need of replacement. It should be around 14 give or take a little for load.

 

The alternator needs to 'see' exciter current at the green/red wire in order to 'turn on'
The yellow wire senses output (system voltage) and then the regulator should limit it to ~14.4V (depending on exactly which regulator is installed)

 

Did you go back with the same year cluster? There are some differences in the charging circuit and a few other minor things in the different years.. I'm thinking I remember that 92, 93 = same,, 94 , 95 = same,, 96 , 97 2/350 = same...

Unfortunately I don't remember the exact differences but maybe this will get you started looking in the right area...