See what Bill has to say.
He used to own a carburetor & tuneup shop.

 

I blocked off my EGR right after I bought the truck in 1994. I never had any detonation problem and I was towing a 10,000 lb 5th wheel trailer. I left everything else on, just knocked the screens out of the tailpipe. I did install a straight up (pre-1972) timing set.

 

You just put a block off shim on the neck of the EGR plate, right?
Without the plate the throttle linkage is out of line, and the exhaust port in the intake manifold is open.
I don't know of any manufacturer that makes a 1" carb spacer with the bumpout on the passenger side.

 

Jim, I actually just put a carburetor check ball in the vacuum hose.

 

You will find each situation will be a little different. You can try what you are doing and take everything off, but sometimes it doesn't work out. The carb is calibrated for all that stuff, and you may find it suddenly has little quirks about it that it didn't have before. The safest way is to get a aftermarket carb that is adjustable. That will put you back in the 60's style of tune, which I think is what you want.

You still also may want to think about the distributor. It's also curved to work with all the emissions, and the engine can run better with a aftermarket dist that you can adjust.

And after all this, you need to experiment with the initial timing setting. You are on your own now, none of the factory numbers and adjustments are going to work best for your setup, now it's all changed.

 

I tossed the EGR, AIR pump, and evap canister on my truck (it was broken anyway) and it runs great, with no issues whatsoever

 

This thing was one hundred percent unmolested until I desided to do this. Hope I made the right decision.

The 60s muscle car set up is exactly what I'm going for. I'm not against putting a carb on it. Like I said, after the drivetrains out of the truck for the resto, it just might see some bolt on's and a bump stick. This is the first big block I've owned and I've always wanted that big block thumper sound. Actually last night I was looking at the thumper cams.
When it comes to moderns cars I can tear into these things with my eyes closed and with new things like this my confidence isn't there so I feel I have to double check, and recheck as well as ask lots of people advice. A good example would be the Alt bracket. Thank you guys for saying something, it would have really sucked to find out the hard way that it it wouldn't have held.
Speaking of which, any luck on a bracket for me
Surprising enough I went to the local Pull a Part and was unsuccessful at hunting one down. There their when I don't want one though so it's just a matter of time. I'd like to have this thing on the road ASAP without rushing it though.

 

More thoughts? What you would do?

 

Continue on, I have a feeling there is no turning back now correct? I can't take the high road and say you shouldn't take all this stuff off, I am guilty of it myself. The problem is you have to really know what it all did, and have expectations of the consequences when you take it off. I have had idle adjustment problems, pinging problems, driveability problems(being cold natured or hard to start when hot), etc. Some can be lived with, some need minor adjustments or some of the stuff put back on.

If this is going to be a play toy, go ahead and get a thumper cam and enjoy the sound it makes. If you are going to pull and tow with this thing, I would not put that cam in it. Look at the rpm range they have, it's not what you want for towing(you are already complaining that it's screaming down the highway). That cam can also mess up your carb adjustments, and make it run rich(the power valve comes on at idle) because the idle vacuum is so low with that type of cam.

But you can try it, just educate yourself on what could happen.

 

Heres my current setup. I have an Edelbrock intake and carb but other than that everything should be the same. I plan on getting rid of those manifold hoses today and install headers soon. This setup runs great, I hope the pics help.

Edit, I just spend 20 minutes getting one manifold tube off due to it being nearly welded from rust. It takes a 3/8 flair plug to cap it off. I would suggest plugging them like the guy did in my pics but better obviously. After the trouble trying to get the hard line off Im just going to leave them until I get headers. Good luck.

 

Well.......... made some good progress today, however im not sure what the heck is going on with Photobucket. For some reason i cant add any pics to my library. IDK! As soon as i figure what the hell is going on, ill post some pics along with my progress.
Untill then..........

 

Got rid of the ported vacuum trees on the thermostat housing and plugged them up with some pipe plugs.






Also pipe plugged this off. Man was it a pain to remove what was threaded into this. i used a pipe wrench, PB Blaster, and some heat in order to get it off. This is just temporary by the way. The thermostat housing will be replaced, and this line coming from the heads will be done away with all together, as well as the exhaust manifold and possibly the intake when the engine is out of the truck for the resto.



Went ahead and removed these while i was in there.
After this was done, i used some cleaner and a pressure washer to clean the whole engine compartment. I have to get some vacuum caps to cap off the vacuum ports that im not using on the front intake vacuum tree. I ran my distributor vac advance to this for constant vac instead of ported. Thats the only one im going to keep besides the one coming off the back of the intake of course. Ill get some pics tomorrow after i wrap it up.
I plan on checking the timing when i dial in the carb for the non-smog set-up, as well as constant vac advance. I also just received my tune up from Summit. Motorcraft plugs, Ford Racing Cap and Rotor, and Ford Racing wires. Id like to find an open element air filter housing that looks somewhat stock. After a ton of looking, im still on the search.
Also, this carb was just rebuilt from a reputable shop just before i bought the truck. If it gives me a hard time tuning in, its coming off and a nice aftermarket one will be put on. If anybody is looking for an unmolested carb, shoot me a PM.

 

Well guys, I just got back from a long trip with it after i finished, and tuned it up this morning. I put about a hundred miles on it give or take a few. Throttle response and pick up is noticeable. It's not much, but noticeable. From the tailpipe, it sounds different all together. Inside the cab, it's quieter. I have yet to hook the EGR back up, but I got to tell you guys, this is well worth the effort. I can't tell you about gas mileage due to the fact of my gauge doesn't work, and I'm not gonna run it out because I don't want it sucking dirt from the bottom of the tank. Next two times I fill it up, I'll check mileage from top off and report back. The engine compartment looks great after last nights cleaning job. I took a little more time to move and re-route some wire today.
Speaking of wire, I like the Ford racing wiring, but man is it hard to get the wire to look good coming from the cap down to the plugs. I did the best I could, but I'm still not happy with the outcome. I guess that raps this thread up for now. I'm always willing and able with questions gentleman.
Next step............... Resto

 

Glad you're happy!

You can NEVER use the gauge. Just fill it to brimming and reset the Odo.
If you have the proper speedo calibration for your tires and gears it should be good.
Even if not, it will show relative improvements, if not absolute numbers.

 

And thank you for your help. The suprising thing to me was the fact that i didnt have to touch the carb settings. Nor did i have to touch the timing. However, a straight up timing set will be on order in the near future so ill have to then of course. Still didnt hear any pinging under load without the EGR hooked up. Still going to hook it back up though in hopes to maximize MPG's.
Whats your guys's thoughts on the Ford Racing high volume Aluminum water pumps?