i just replaced mi points with the accel 2020 electronic ignition kit. the truck wasnt running before but it was a point issue. now that i have the elec. ig. installed it will only fire when i disingage the starter. no fire until i let go of the switch.
any help would be great. Thanks

 

must be the ignition switch............

 

See if you have spark at the plug while someone turn it over while your grounding it if it does look and see if it a good blue spark or week orange/yellow spark. Also in some of the wiring diagrams there. Happens to be 2 wires one of them was a Pink wire it had a resistor in line on it that when you go to a electronic ignition you tossed that resistor. BUT on my 68 I could never find that Pink wire and I tossed the point system for a DURAspark system So it sounds like your getting half the voltage you need for start then once you get it turning over go you let go of the key and it still has the momentum the switch comes back to run and shoots the full voltage and starts up.

 

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id also say the ignition switch, or a wiring problem.

i was considering using the 2020 kit on my truck so i want to know how this turns out....

 

From the factory there were two paths Ford sent power to the coil. 1st path was full 12V during cranking the starter. 2nd was after the egine started cutting voltage down to 6 to 8 volts to make points last longer. It sounds like you disconnected the 1st path.

 

I didn't disconnect anything but points. It's a simple kit too install

 

OKAY, wasnt the ignition switch..........

I have no idea where this so called resistor is at... i cant find it....
does anybody know where to look? and what it looks like??

i do not have fire with the switch in start position until i let it go back to the run position for a split second.

 

Try checking the starter solenoid. I'll check my wiring schematics when I get home. I believe when the ignition switch is turned to "start" it sends 12v to the solenoid at the "s" terminal. When this happens the solenoid sends power to the starter AND sends the 12v to the coils via the "I" terminal.

 

Sorry. coil not coils.

 

ill give it a shot soon as i get another person available to trun the switch for me. thanks for the info.

this is driving me crazy

 

FOUND THE LONG PINK RESISTOR WIRE!!!!!!!!!!YAY YAY YAY YAY

Not sure cutting it out tho...... do i just cut it out and reconnect the ends i cut??? there is a red and yellow from the ignition switch that connects to the resistor wire and connects to the red wire that goes to the coil +

 

That resistance is where the coil get 6- 8 volts during"run". Not "start". I have read other guys trucks weren't right untill they gave the module 12v. So I would cut it and by-pass it. But leave it there.

 

OK, i think im following you now. ill check my voltage at the selonoid tomorrow. i quit for today.

 

I still have the factory voltage regulator hooked up (i didnt mess with it at all) could my problem be there?

I 12.86 volts at the battery, but only 9.8 to 10 volts at the coil with switch in run position.

I dont have another set of hands to help right now, im just thinking.

 

Not voltage regulator. That would be possible only if the engine was running spinning the alternator. I hope someone else chimes in here that knows more than me but I think it is alright. I am thinking the 2 volts your truck lost there is just parasitic loss. Power going around the Grand Canyon before reaching the coil. With only the battery to push it and no alternator back-up. I wouldn't worry about it until that Bad Boy is running and then there is only 9 - 10 at the coil.