Hello all,

1978 f250 4wd.

I just installed my new 6 inch skyjacker springs.

Original set up;
stock spring, add-a-leaf, 3 inch steering arm block. (truck had zero bump steer)

Current set up;
6 inch lift, 3" steering block, 2" drop pitman, and tie rod end flipped to the top of the arm. (Horrible bump steer)

Question, Anyone here running skyjacker 6 inch Springs? What components did you use for correction? If any, what angle is you drag link at from horizontal?
I am thinking i should have left the TRE under the arm??



Chris

 

How did you flip it in the first place ? The hole is tapered.

 

Is your drag link parallel to the frame or is that just the pic? I.e. horizontal offset of the pitman is the same???

 

I was planning on the same lift kit for my truck but a little uncertain of all of the details that are often discovered during the install.

You mention a 3" steering block. Where is this item?

I think for a 6" Skyjacker you need their adjustable drag link in addition to the dropped pitman arm.

Like Mark a. mentions the hole should be tapered so did you do some machine work? If not, try mounting it back under.

I've read cross-over steering is the hot setup if you have lots of lift and do a lot of off road running and run bigger tires (>35" dia).

You might like this setup:
1978 Ford F250 4x4 - 1978 F-250 4x4

 

I would of left the drag link under the steering arm, the angle would have been more than acceptable.

If you have access to a 76/77 highboy steering arm (it's 2" taller than yours) i'd swap it with your steering arm and ditch the 3" steering arm block, or get an adj. drop drag link.

 

I tapered the hole from the top down. I had extra Chevy 1ton DRE's from my suburban. They measure .800-.700 at the large to small. The Fords measure .700-600 large to small.

When you taper top down, the smallest portion of the Chevy end is still larger than the largest diameter of the ford.

You will need the sleeve also, the treads for chevy are 7/8 18tpi and the ford is 7/8 by 16?? or 14??

Speedway Tapered Ball Joint Reamer, 7 Degree - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

 

The block is on top of the steering knuckle. no one makes a raised arm. just the block to put under it.

 

Just use a 76/77 highboy arm (pic below) those 3" raised blocks create a lot of unnecessary leverage on the steering linkage.

 

Here is what the block looks like installed and the red one what they look like not installed (well duh, lol)....they sale them for a D44 and D60. IMO I would not use this set up, I got it with a parts axle deal. The D60 was already set up too, I have different plans.....

I use the drop pitman arm and adj drag link on ol red, no idea on bump steer, cause its just a mud rig.

 

I don't think a 1" or 2" steering block on a D60 is too bad, not ideal, but not that bad either, they're square shaped with more mounting surface area, not much leverage there.

It's the tall narrow 3" steering blocks used on a D44 I don't like, it's just way too much leverage placed on the steering knuckle.

 

Does anyone have the original pitman arm? I would buy it, my local junk yards have none.

Chris

 

chris989 PM sent .....

 

Update,

Reinstalled the factory pitman arm. Bump steer diminnished but not totally gone.

The angle of the drag link is lower at the steering arm than the pitman, but it steers better. Must have something to do with the angle of the frame.

3 inch lift and 3 inch block



6 inch lift/ 3" block, flipped DRE.

 

Any idea of what company made the cross over components in the link you posted?

 

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...ki6_AeBUjAyI2A

Part is on the way......