Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Sticking front caliper

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 04-11-2013, 03:47 PM
ghanson's Avatar
ghanson
ghanson is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 562
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Sticking front caliper

Hey everyone, I've been trying to figure out why my brakes are sticking but I've come up with nothing so far. A few months ago I had the front right caliper lock up due to internal rust. I replaced both front calipers, replaced all the brake fluid, and called it a day. I noticed though that the front right still sticks. After about a mile or so it starts to chirp and won't stop chirping, even at speed. I got fed up, warrantied the caliper, installed another new one, replaced all the rubber brake lines (thought it might be a collapsing line), flushed the brake fluid again and it still does the same damn thing.

Has anyone had this problem or know what it could be? I know it is something with the brakes; with both new calipers the wheel had resistance to turning when the truck was jacked up, but it spun freely with the caliper removed. I bled the brakes myself a few times, then even paid to get them professionally done. It's only the front right.

The truck is the one in my signature; 1997 F-250 HD, diesel 4x4. Thanks in advance for any help!
 
  #2  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:01 PM
MeanGreen460's Avatar
MeanGreen460
MeanGreen460 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: In Hastings Delton area
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Is your truck pulling to the right when driving down the road?.Usually a bad caliper will cause the vehicle to pull .Sounds like maybe something is rubbing like the brake rotor shield.
 
  #3  
Old 04-11-2013, 11:49 PM
ghanson's Avatar
ghanson
ghanson is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 562
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
It doesn't pull to the right as far as I can tell, and now that I'm on my second new out of the box caliper, I have to think that it's something else. The shield isn't making contact with anything either. One thing I have noticed is that when I hit the brakes hard the steering wheel does turn left.

Makes me think that, along with not releasing, it might not be engaging either. Is there a valve that splits the front brake line pressures between left and right that could be sticking or is it equal pressure to both sides?
 
  #4  
Old 04-12-2013, 10:32 AM
Yaga1973's Avatar
Yaga1973
Yaga1973 is offline
Elder User - What???

Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Did you clean and lubricate the mounting pins/bolts?
 
  #5  
Old 04-12-2013, 11:15 AM
broncoderek's Avatar
broncoderek
broncoderek is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Maybe a wheel bearing? That rotor should be getting pretty hot if it's dragging. To the point you would smell it.

Pretty suspicious of the fact that it's happened with mostly all new parts.

So this has happened on THREE calipers at this point? I'd look further down the line, what about a clapped-out axle shaft u-joint?
 
  #6  
Old 04-12-2013, 12:17 PM
SideWinder4.9l's Avatar
SideWinder4.9l
SideWinder4.9l is offline
FTE Chapter Leader

Join Date: May 2009
Location: Eastern Ky
Posts: 8,838
Received 20 Likes on 18 Posts
Originally Posted by ghanson
It doesn't pull to the right as far as I can tell, and now that I'm on my second new out of the box caliper, I have to think that it's something else. The shield isn't making contact with anything either. One thing I have noticed is that when I hit the brakes hard the steering wheel does turn left.

Makes me think that, along with not releasing, it might not be engaging either. Is there a valve that splits the front brake line pressures between left and right that could be sticking or is it equal pressure to both sides?
I'm gonna venture a guess that the rubber line has collapsed..$15/side to replace.

Here's the D/S. Notice the T fitting.


And here's the P/S
 
  #7  
Old 04-12-2013, 01:00 PM
broncoderek's Avatar
broncoderek
broncoderek is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
[quote=ghanson;13053452] I got fed up, warrantied the caliper, installed another new one, replaced all the rubber brake lines (thought it might be a collapsing line), flushed the brake fluid again and it still does the same damn thing.
quote]
 
  #8  
Old 04-12-2013, 01:47 PM
ghanson's Avatar
ghanson
ghanson is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 562
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Yaga1973
Did you clean and lubricate the mounting pins/bolts?
Yes sir, not only are they new, but I lubed them.

Originally Posted by broncoderek
Maybe a wheel bearing? That rotor should be getting pretty hot if it's dragging. To the point you would smell it.

Pretty suspicious of the fact that it's happened with mostly all new parts.

So this has happened on THREE calipers at this point? I'd look further down the line, what about a clapped-out axle shaft u-joint?
This first time it happened the caliper actually had rusted up on the inside. After it happened I had both sides lathed and i put in all new wheel bearings and seals. And the weird part is that I don't really smell burning brakes. Then when I jack the truck up, that wheel is hard to turn. I know it is the caliper doing it because it spins just as easily as the other side when the calipers are removed. Technically, the first caliper failed, and its the 2 brand new (nothing from the junkyard) that haven't be functioning correctly. I'm thinking it might be a hydraulic problem but I'm not sure where to look for it.


Thanks again everyone for your continued help and ideas! Oh, and in case anyone's wondering if I'm complaining about a mouse fart, I can hear the squeaking clearly over the straight pipe diesel, even at 55 mph if my windows are down.
 
  #9  
Old 04-12-2013, 02:02 PM
ghanson's Avatar
ghanson
ghanson is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 562
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
So I went off to see the wizard to ask about my problem (my buddy has 10W30 running through his veins) and he suggested the master cylinder. I'm going to see if it has separate or shared lines for the front brakes, if they're separate, that's my problem; new master cylinder for me! Stay tuned for more info! And again, thanks for your help!
 
  #10  
Old 04-12-2013, 02:17 PM
Yaga1973's Avatar
Yaga1973
Yaga1973 is offline
Elder User - What???

Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
That was going to be my next suggestion considering you have replaced everything else at least twice. Let us know how it turns out!
 
  #11  
Old 04-12-2013, 11:22 PM
drewcoolness99's Avatar
drewcoolness99
drewcoolness99 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Runout in the rotor will cause it to chirp. Also it sounds dumb... but make sure the cotter pin isnt rubbing the inside of the dust cap. I've seen that in quite a few cases. Hell ive seen a few people with loose centercaps on the wheels that come in complaining about "brake" noises.
 
  #12  
Old 04-12-2013, 11:59 PM
ghanson's Avatar
ghanson
ghanson is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 562
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
I appreciate the help Drew, but it's not just chirping, the brakes are actually sticking and not releasing fully. Plus the 4x4 hubs are all c-clips; no cotter pins that I remember.
 
  #13  
Old 04-13-2013, 07:10 AM
drewcoolness99's Avatar
drewcoolness99
drewcoolness99 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry didnt see the 4x4 part. Try lifting the front of the truck while its running then disconn ct the vaccum line from the booster then check the wheels and see if they freed up any. If they dont then try cracking the line going to the fronts coming off the master. If they get easy to spin then its the master. If it doesnt, start opening lines in succesion going from the master to the wheels until it releases. If none of them free up the wheels then its a mechanical bind.
 
  #14  
Old 04-13-2013, 02:00 PM
ghanson's Avatar
ghanson
ghanson is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 562
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
I know it's the brakes, not mechanical, but I'll try that. I just wish I had more room to work on the truck! Sucks living in apartments!
 
  #15  
Old 04-13-2013, 09:08 PM
MeanGreen460's Avatar
MeanGreen460
MeanGreen460 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: In Hastings Delton area
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Have you checked your tires ? You may have a bad tire broken belt .Try rotating your front tires side to side see if pull changes to other side .If that do't work try doing the same thing with the rear tires ..Also a bad front axle joint froze up or frozen ball joint could be causing your problem .You replaced the 2 brake calipers and rubber lines with new ones that didn't help plus I don't believe the Master cylinder would cause your problem >If it was the master cylinder causing a problem I would think both back or both front would be hanging Or locking up.
 


Quick Reply: Sticking front caliper



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:07 AM.