So I'm building a 55 f100 complete restore..... who isnt, I have been searching high and low for a 351 cleveland and tranny to put in this thing. I can pay shipping if anyone has any to sell. Many ask why i want one and i like to be different i guess, any takers or idea givers.

 

I chose the cleveland as well. C-list has about 5 of them around my area. How low do you plan on setting this truck? Auto or stick? Im keeping mine off the ground for clearance for a zf 5 speed. The zf 2wd for a windsor bell was not easy to find either.

Make sure you edit your user profile so we know what area you live in.

 

Welcome Aboard Makin!
Post some more pics when you get a chance. We went with a 351W - not many choose the Cleveland route - should be fun. Good luck over there & stay out of the cold.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

I just fired a new Cleveland and I also have a new, never started 4bbl engine. All new internals, balanced etc, block has been ground smooth and painted AOD is fully polished. I built 4 tube block hugger headers with HPC. PM me, I might be ready to sell.

 

Profile edited, im in Western PA, which craigslist area were you referring to so i can look them up?

 

I had one and I couldn't even give it away, I sent on a journey to China.

 

I was referring to Lima/Findlay area. The past 2 months there have been several from here to toledo to columbus. I just checked again, the posts arent there any more. One pops up under the cincy and columbus list as of 2:11pm.

 

Man FF i wish i could fire mine up. But I decided to let the shop handle grinding down the thermactor/egr ports in the exhaust chambers. My heads were cracked and got some 75 400 heads. And they are taking FOREVER to do it. MAF sensors are good but roll the dice if it can fully adjust to the swap.

 

If it's a Restore why do you need a 351?

 

rebuild with a twist hows that sound?

 

What are you planning on doing with the front suspension of the truck? Height of the truck? etc

 

I've been bouncing around the idea of putting mustang II ifs on the front with stock height, No limit fat bar 4 link in the rear. Just trying to get exactly what i want figured out before i go blowing all my cash.

 

Ok if you get ahold of a C just be warned you will either have to fabricate an oil pan, or buy a nice expensive 300 plus dollar pan/pickup. The c is a front pump engine, and a crossmember will force the pickup to the rear location.

 

WHat do you suggest i want 400+ HP snappy like, with a nice choppy sound?

 

Depends on the rpm range you run. Im doing my first C rebuild. Alot will depend on what C you get. 2v or 4v. My build im going for fuel economy, and not so much for tq/hp numbers. 2v's are alot easier to control the compression. 4v's( or aussie heads) get the compression up easily. Your pretty much going to have to find a C then go from there. Displacement, compression, head flow and cam selection ( roller or hydraulic) all play there own critical role. Stroker kits are not cheap, but they make it easy. Offset grinding the crank for 377cubes is neither cheap or easy. Getting the compression up helps the hp numbers, but limits fuel types you can run. Converting to a roller cam frees up a bit, I judged it wasnt worth the cost. For the research I have done, doing a good port job on the heads works miracles. Exhaust choices will be limited, Im going to use the cast logs for ease of fitment and port matching at the head.This should be good enough for me. Shorties of any kind really dont give that much over stock logs. Most are about 8hp for 300 plus dollar headers. Not worth it to me.

Your best bet is to find C, then get ahold of Tim Meyer. The man has a reputation for being a cleveland expert. do a web search for Tim Meyer inc. He also does posts on this forum in the 335 series section for engines, here on FTE.