I recently replaced all 8 body mounts with Energy Suspension Red ( really don't think there is a difference between red and black) I was able to use all of my original mount hard ware so i only needed to buy the grommets.
Anyway, here are some of the important hi-lights:
After installation, I really didn't notice any difference in ride however, I no long have the thunk coming from rear of cab when hitting a bump.
1. The drive side CAC tube must be removed or you will certainly brake it. disconnected mine from engine side and left the lower side on. unnecessary to remove passenger side since the boots have lots of flex.
2. It is possible to get to the rear most cab mounts from behind the seat without removing seat, however getting to the mounts behind the front seat would require that you work underneath the carpet with your socket wrench and the bolts fight the entire way because the factory used loctite,AND the bolts are really long, like 6 or 8 ". After fighting with one of these, I waited for help and took the back seat out whitch btw, is unbelievably heavy. Now, if you have a power impact ratchet, working underneath the carpet, you could accomplish without removing backseat.
3. Having 2 people is a must for 2 reasons: Removing back seat, and removing front mounts next to radiator.
4. You must make/have a puller. If you dont you will only be working against yourself. a few of the mounts pretty much fell out, but some fought the entire way where the puller was absolutely needed.
5. Front mounts by radiator: Mine were not really that bad but I never do jobs half way. If i'm replacing mounts i'm replacing all of them. WIth that said the fronts are a little tricky until you understand how they come apart. The the original mount, at the top of the rubber grommet there is a thick metal cap that is molded into the rubber. You wont really know its there but this cap has an inner cylinder thread that the top bolt threads into. we had to use a knife to cut away the top of the rubber grommet, then put a large pair of channel locks on this cap while someone up top cranked out the bolt. (edit - i need to make a correction to #5) after i posted i realized i made a mistake. To remove this grommet, one person must hold the metal grommet cap described above with channel locks while another cranks the bolt out from the bottom access hole in the frame. There are nuts on the top of the frame right next to each side of the radiator which have to be removed first. You will remove these nuts while removing all bolts from one side of the truck while only loosing the bolts from the other side. (this is in the overall instructions you get from Energy Suspensions).
I can pretty much answer questions on any part of this operation. Just let me know what questions you might have.
6. The Front bumper must come off. This is easy since there are only 6 bolts and 2 fog light plugs to remove but its really handy to have 2 people for this. You can find how to remove the front bumper from other threads on this forum.
7. Torque new mounts to 60footlbs. This is stock torque and Energy Suspension instructions state to torque to stock.
Also, i wanted to add that this really is not that bad of a job. It took us about 6 hrs. I think i could do it now in 4 since i know what i'm doing.

 

the daystar kit says to reuse the steel sleeves. mind are shot. these trucks have a serious rust problem. did any one else have this issue of having to saws all them out ?
by the way mu buddy just bought a 2016 f350. nothing underneath is painted !!! all covered in surface rust. what is going on here FORD ?????

 

Answer below.

Bankers and share holders.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

As i recall, the Energy Suspension folks offer a hard ware kit to go along with their bushings. My truck has spent its entire life in Florida so i didn't have to worry about rust and all of the mount hard ware was reusable.
If daystar says to use your old hardware i would suspect that they dont have an optional hardware kit but would think that you could probably use Energy Suspensions hardware kit. I believe it was something like $169

 

I replaced my body mounts a few weeks ago, had to have the company send out new front cab mounts due to a sizing issue. I stripped out the hexagon shaped retaining washer on the bottom side of the mount. Any ideas on a part number for those, or where I can find just the hardware and not the bushing with it?

 

Google...there are crew cab versions and no crew cab.

BODY MOUNT BUSHINGS HARDWARE - FORD F250 SUPER DUTY

 

same thing happened to me, had to order new complete mounts from dealer they don't sell the pieces you need separate

 

Just did mine about a month ago on my 05 crew. However I didn't take the front bumber off. I used the slots on the underside of the frame to disassemble. A small hook and needle nose with small channel locks to pull the old rubber out and put the new one in. The hook helped get the old off and new one on. For the bottom part of the sleeve. Agreed that removing the front bumper would have been easier due to the limited space and that section being a box frame. But isn't necessary if your willing to take a little extra time. The back seat is heavy. But made getting to the middle studs easier. I posted a finished pic in the what did you do to your truck. I also cleaned up the brackets and painted them. This wasn't an easy job. I did loosen the steering rod for when I raised the body at that point. I was able to do 4 lifts and change out 2 at a time per side. I did this in a weekend as I was no hurry.

 

I can save you much time and trouble with your 2008 thru 2010 body mounts!! Do Not Replace with Daystar mounts, they Are Not the same thickness and are too small of lowers for holes in frame. Upper pieces are too small as well and go roundy round in the holes!! I went the cheap route ($150) with Daystar mounts and now 30 days later, I'm installing Ford OEM mounts ($580) all 8, plus couple new bolts from bluespringsfordparts.com.

 

that's just what mine sounded like and felt like coming through the seats both of my back bottom mounts were totally gone change them and everything was fine

 

Do any of you guys who installed urethane bushings have any feedback now that it's been a few years? Are they holding up well? Any issues with squeaks? Has ride quality changed with time? Would you do it again or go back to stock?

 

The rubber deteriorating, my truck, a 2003 F250 has 180k miles, and all the rubber mounts are still in good shape (minor splits). It probably has to do with the weather conditions, kept in a garage, carport, or if you off road it often exposing the suspension to lots of dirt.
I once purchased a 97 Mustang, from Nebraska, only had 38k miles on it, and it was already showing deteriorating rubber, not only the suspension, but a lot of the other rubber molding on the car.

 

just noticed mine today
2015 45k miles texas truck

 

Dry and crispy. That is how you want your potato chips but not body bushings.

 

I just did my body mounts. Factory were totally shredded and gone. I replaced with SBS and could not be happier. Quality product and much better than stock bushings and will never need to be replaced again.