I may be in over my head because I've searched the internet and can not find how to remove a broken dashboard. I've removed all parts and pieces and every nut and bolt I can find. I want to restore my 1995 short bed ford and almost everything mechanical has been rebuilt now working on the cosmetics. As you can see below I have most of the trim pieces gone but I want to actually replace the entire dash cause its all broken along the top. Any tips or links? Thanks guys this is my first ford and my first restore.

 

Welcome to FTE. in order to post pics, you need a picture hosing site like Photo bucket or image shack

 

Assuming you mean the entire plastic dash assembly, and not just the padded panel, it's a real pain. There are several screws connecting it to the cast aluminum steering column support. One of them can only be accessed by dropping the column. There's a screw at each end, by the doors. Remove the kick panel trim to access those. The screws that you see in the defroster ducts by the windshield come out, and right next to each of those are screws going straight down that hold the defroster ductwork to the plastic dash. If you're taking the ductwork out with the dash, leave those in. The heater box in the cab is bolted to the blower box in the engine compartment, with the firewall in-between. There are 6 bolts to disconnect them, along with a lot of adhesive. 2 of those bolts are accessed behind a panel on the passenger side kick panel. The heater core has to be disconnected, as well as several vacuum lines and the blend door cable from the heater control. A lot of wiring supports have to be disconnected, and probably a bunch of other stuff I'm forgetting right now...

If you really want to leave the ductwork in place, then the other screws in the defroster ducts have to come out, and several screws behind the small padded dash panel. You can see those in the bottom of the recesses once the padded panel is off. In the bottom of one of the recesses you'll see the wrong end of a screw. That one connects the plastic dash assembly to the heater box from the inside. To get at that one, you need to take the blower box in the engine compartment off. Then you can get to it through the firewall...

 

wow that seems like a lot more than i though. any tips on how to repar the broken dash instead of going though that entire process?

 

Well, we can't see your pictures. You'd need to upload them to a photo hosting site then link to them here...
If the issues are structural, I've had good luck with epoxy, especially with some reinforcement across the broken area. If it's cosmetic, maybe a dash cover?

 

hope that works I uploaded to photobucket and changed the link address on here. let me know. like i said before the dashpad, glvoe compartment and a bunch of other things i've already removed

 

The picture links now work.
I'd be tempted to repair it in place with epoxy if I could get the cracks to close up, and then get a dash cover. If not, then replacement is about the only alternative.
I think it's easier to take it out with the ductwork attached. (It was for me, anyways. I had to swap out the whole dash assembly in my F-Superduty. It had dual controls in it, and the dash was butchered up pretty well for the right-hand steering column...)

 

ive seen alot of different ways to repair plastic but i dont know which method would be best and the strongest to hold the pieces together. also the main bracket that screws into the bottom under the kick quarter panel is broke causing the whole dash to move up and down on the right side. is there a repair for this as well? if so i can repair the movment, appoxy the holes and cap it off.

 

ok new problem. i disconnected the battery when doing all this dash work. this morning i reconnected it to drive to work and the truck wouldnt fire. All the lights and electronics came on when i reconnected the battery and would turn over just wouldnt start. could I of broke something white taking the dash apart?

 

Did you leave the dual tank switcher unplugged? Neither fuel pump will run without the switch plugged in.

You can remove just the dash skin and leave the ducting and all wiring in place, but most folks think its easier to remove the dash with ductwork attached.


Cruise through this album and read the captions for the steps I took to remove just the dash skin.
Dash Removal Photos by kawamatt2 | Photobucket

 

i only have 1 fuel tank so im not sure if that still applies

 

thanks ill look

 

thos pictures really helped thanks. How hard was it to remove the steering wheel and the whole instrument panel. is there any tips or anything i have to worry about when removing all those?

 

Even with one tank, I think there is still a block off plug you should have installed. Are you trying to start the truck with all the stuff removed as shown in your pictures?

To pull the dash, you have to remove the steering column. Its as simple as disconnecting the ujoint by the brake pedal and then unbolting the ignition plug and unbolting or unplugging the multi function switch. Then just 4 nuts and it drops down and can come out.

By instrument panel, you mean the gauge cluster? If so, remove the 4 gold colored screws holding it in the dash and then there are 2 or 3 electrical plugs on the back to unplug and you have to disconnect the little PRND21 needled. Very simple.

Also, if you want to remove the skin and ducting as one unit, the whole aluminum bracket that the steering column and e-brake bolt to will come out with the ducting. Just remove the 4 large bolts holding it to the firewall.

 

Excuse my ignorance but why would I have to remove the ducting? I just wanna replace the broken ugly dash