1956 Ford F-250 Stake Bed Project. Purchased from long term storage.Upon fire up, one headlight not working, the other occassional flash but dim. Does this sound like a ground problem in the headlight housing? Just wondering where the best place to start is. Also, is generator to a GM one wire alternator swap considered unethical in the fat fender world?

 

Check your grounds. What are your plans in the long run with the truck's electrical? Is your wiring in good shape or ready for a new wiring harness? Personally, I swapped in a Delco/Remy 3 wire alternator (that can be tricked into a one wire) when I did my overhaul. Whether its "wrong or right", I do what is best for me. Having a few non-Ford components in my build doesn't make it any less of a Ford in my opinion. Now swapping in a complete drivetrain or frame swap from another company makes it questionable. My goal, as I am sure its your goal, is to drive the truck and have fun. A few parts here and there shouldn't make a difference unless you are doing a concours restoration. Have fun!

Links about using a 3 wire http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

http://www.ehow.com/how_5154693_wire...lternator.html

 

I would start by turning on the lights and start following and moving the wires. In wiring this old you may find breaks anywhere, most likely at or near a connector. Pull all plug connectors and clean. Could very well be a ground problem. Sometimes a good solid rap with a soft mallet or a fist will cause the problem to show up. Alligator clips and a length of wire can serve as a temp ground to prove or disprove a ground problem.
JMO, but a one wire GM alternator is a viable improvement to these old truck. On the other side, if you're restoring to original, stay away from anything but period correct Ford stuff.
Funny how we have no problems with Toyota steering mod, SOB front or rear end but just don't mention addition of a SBC.

 

Half the parts we buy are made out of the country now days anyway. My truck even has a SBC which many here hate. It was already in the truck when I bought it and it is a good engine, so I am leaving it. The truck is mine and I really don't care what others think it should be, and in my opinion is still a Ford. The one wire alternators are a nice addition and work well, and also easy to find if you need to replace it. So, build it how you want to build it unless you plan on using for show and want it 100% original.

 

Lots of good advise! I have two F-100 1/2 tons in restoration process. Came across this F-250 with a ton of dents and all broken glass, but complete drive train and engine and not a lot of rust. I wanted something different so I thought a F-250 long box flat bed would be a good project. One of my F-100's has the Heidt IFS the other Toyota Power Steering. I think this one will get the toybox steering as well. I have to reinstall a starter today on the F-250. I removed it thinking it was not engaging. Somehow missed the fact a starter turning over an engine without the spark plugs does not sould like a starter turning over an engine WITH spark plugs installed. Jumped the gun and removed the starter....UGH. That top bolt on a Y-Block is a monster.

 

Sounds like a ground problem. 90% of electrical problems where lites are dim/intermittent is a ground issue. Add new flat braided ground straps between frame and engine block, cab and frame, bed and frame, front sheet metal and frame.

 

When you say flat braided ground strap, is that maybe the one that originally went from the frame to the rear of the starter? If not, do you know the location of the braided strap in its stock location? I remember these ground straps were pretty common.

 

I ground mine from engine block to firewall via bellhousing bolt to one of the bolts holding the gas pedal bracket. Also the negative side of the battery to the frame. Not saying thats factory but thats how I do it.

FYI, I find a lot of chain auto parts stores don't carry good braided ground straps. I find the best ones at Tractor Supply or other tractor places.

 

FWIW, a ground strap does not have to be braided. A braided strap will flex a bit more but really all you need is a heavy ground strap with enough length to flex.

 

Honestly I don't know if there were ground straps originally installed or where, I just install them between the main structures that have electrical components attached to them to reduce the likelyhood of problems, it's cheap insurance. Chasing vehicle electrical problems was one of the specialties of the service station I worked at in Buffalo NY, the home of ice, snow, salt, and corrosion, and we did a lot of them. Most of the major components are rubber mounted to allow movement and reduce rattles and squeaks. Ford was able to depend on a bolt or two to provide the electrical continuity when new, but eventually the bolts, the holes they go through, the washers, etc, rust and corrode, especially when the vehicle sets for a long time and there is no movement to rub the metal clean and keep the electrical paths sound.

 

Missy Green had never been modified when I got her so far as I could tell. Her main grounding locations were:

Heavy battery cable size black insulated ground between the passenger side frame to the clutch housing.

A heavy braided ground strap from the battery to the frame of the truck.

A stranded cable of lesser size between the driver side intake manifold and the
cowl.

The important thing is the grounds are clean and tight. Edit: You can't have too many.

Holly cow, I almost spelled cowl wrong.

 

My truck which has never been modified has grounds from the positive post of the battery (I still have 6 volt pos. ground) to a bolt on the side of the battery box. The bolt goes through to the frame rail. There is a braided strap from the engine block to the firewall. There is also a ground from the starter to the frame.

To ensure my tail and brake lights and turns are bright I ran a ground wire from each light to the frame.

 

I may have missed it along the way here but have you tried a new bulb . Just a thought

 

You misspelled "Holy" tho!

What you describe is typical of what I've seen and it makes no sense. The only truly large current flow is to the starter, so the heaviest strap needs to go directly to the block or clutch. There is nothing drectly grounded to the frame, all the lights are grounded to body panels. Why they did the cables that way is baffling.

Personally I run a ground wire from each user to a central ground connected straight to the battery. It makes a big difference.

 

No I never tried changin the headlights cause none of the lights worked. I spent some time underneath the rear end and cut off a lot of nasty wiring. Should have been cut off before I ever turned the key. I noticed once the headlights were on bright, but seemed to be connected to working in vicinity of the headlight switch. I also found a heavy blue wire and a light blue wire, different guages, both dead ending. Will chase that in the next few days to see where the originate or end.