Hello - new to the forums and to the F100!

I will be picking up my "new" Ranger tomorrow (1970 F100, 360, C6, 2wd, LWB). There are two engine items that require immediate attention based on my inspection:

Exhaust leaking at pass side manifold (read a bunch of threads - apparently a common issue), so I'm not looking forward to removing those exhaust bolts!

Massive oil leak, appears to be from the intake manifold. Also apparently a common issue. The good news is that there's not even any surface rust on the front half of the frame.

Sooo, since I'm going to be pulling some things apart, naturally I want to do more work than necessary and throw more money away. This is obviously a slippery slope, as these light upgrades can easily turn into big upgrades. I need to draw a line somewhere....

I don't intend to go full tilt on a rebuild right now, the engine runs great and seems to be well maintained, so the 390 conversion will have to wait a while (pending results of leakdown/compression tests I plan to do soon).

This will be a weekend driver only. May be doing some light towing, but mostly a fun truck to cruise around town...so looking for some performance on 87 octane.

I don't like buying parts twice, so everything I do I want to be well suited for the 390 conversion later on if possible.

This leads me to several questions - please feel free to answer one or many or all!

1) are there any gaskets that are better than others for the intake manifold that will end the steady flow of oil these things seem to spew?

2) I am wanting to convert to a 4bbl. This means an intake (which - OE or aftermarket?)

3) .....and a carb (which brand and what cfm?) Seems like 650 is the right number and would work with the 390 too?

4) .....and is now the time to do a cam (knowing it won't work for the 390) and lifters etc...or is the gain not worth it until the 390?

5) since I'm pulling exhaust manifolds, I am going to go the headers route. I am aware of the starter heat issue, so I may try to find a heat shroud for the starter (and will probably replace the starter while I'm down there). Is there a type/brand of starter that's better than others?

6) .....and for the headers, I am going with shorties (for the starter clearance)...looking at Stan's Tri-Y or Sanderson's based on what I've seen on the FE forum...any recent feedback on either of those for our trucks, or other similar suggestions?

7) I will also be doing a dual exhaust system...is there any guide line on scavenging, X/H pipe location, mufflers, that will help sort out the exhaust layout? Oh I'm sure this will open a can of worms!

8 ) I will also do the Duraspark conversion. Does it matter if it's Duraspark or Duraspark II?

Lots of questions, I've spent a lot of time researching but it's a lot to sort out - thanks in advance!

 

#3: I really like Edelbrock carbs. They're pretty much idiot-proof. It's ridiculously easy to set idle a/f mixture. Easy adjustment for automatic choke and high idle. For just a cruiser, go with vacuum secondaries. I've got an Edelbrock 1406 (600 CFM) on my 460, and everyone tells me 600 CFM isn't big enough for my 460, but it pulls 0-60 in a little under 7 seconds (not bad for 5400lbs). You could probably run the same carb on your engine.

#6: Shorty headers will be good. You'll get about 60-80% of what long tube headers will give you, but long tube headers can be annoying with clearances. Plus, as you mentioned, heat around the starter can be an issue in some cases.

#7: Are you planning on running straight pipes, glass packs, or quiet mufflers?

#8: Don't think it really matters. Make sure you run 12 volts to your coil if you do the upgrade to an electronic duraspark system. Right now it should be running about 9 volts through a ballast resistor or resistor wire.

 

Thanks BBF!

3) You're convincing me on the Edelbrock carb....been leaning towards their intake as well.

6&8)

7) I was figuring glass packs or some type of "light" muffler to kill to droning, but allow some WOT growl

 

Congrats. Iv'e got the same rig but with an NP435.

1. It's all about technique.. throw the valley wall gaskets away and simply use Right-Stuff...

2. Intake.. a Performer 2105 saves 50 lbs off the front end than a stock 4V intake. A Performer RPM 7105 is a candidate too but FEs are not revvers.. they're torquers so I went with a 2105.

3. Eddys are fine and so are Holleys. Stay around 600 to 650 cfm with vacuum secondaries. Again, the operating RPM range and displacement dictates carb sizing. Also look into Summit's house-brand 600 cfm. It's a Holley clone and right now offered for about $235.

4. I'd wait until later for the cam. .. that is unless you have to tear it apart.

5 & 6. I went with Sanderson headers.. well-made with thick flanges. Didn't want to deal with long tubes on this 2WD since my rig is a 4-speed. Duals are easier to snake down each frame rail with an automatic.

7... no input needed. It's too subjective.

8. Either one is fine. My rig already had a Pertonix installed.

 

Thank you for the reply - lots of good info there! I responded below in red.

 

i have a holley 650 vac sec runs great not to easy to set but lots of power

 

I've never used an Edelbrock intake, but I've heard good things. I've got a Weiand intake on my 460 right now.

 

OK I'm now thinking:
Carb - Holley 650cfm 80783C
Intake - Edelbrock Performer 2105
Headers - if I go shorty I will get the Sanderson's, but I'm considering long tubes with a starter heat wrap

My buddy owns Flatout Group (high end gaskets, sold at Summit among other places) and used to be the motorsports guy at FelPro, so I'm getting his advice on sealing up the intake manifold and all that....will see what he says about the Permatex Right Stuff and advise.

 

Valley wall gaskets... I know of no links but here's a tip: Dimple the walls like pictured below so the RTV has some grip. Test fit the intake before applying the RTV and note how much (as in height) to apply. Remove the manifold. Clean off the surfaces with brake clean or other non-residual solvent. Now apply the RTV using a daub-backstroke-daub-backstroke method. Basically, you want the daubs of RTV to look like a tidy TIG weld. Let it outgas (partially dry) for about 15 minutes before installing the manifold squarely on the engine.

It's a 4150 pattern carb... square bore. .. yeah, that Holley will be fine for the 360 or 390.

Haven't installed the Sandersons yet... I'm stuck doing a house remodel. What I mean by fitment is with the exhaust tubing... it's easier to run the tubes down each frame rail with an auto trans than a manual trans. I've got linkages to deal with!!! Arghh! I am hoping not to have to run both down the right frame rail like I did with my 73 4x4. I am planning to modify the trans crossmember with section of 4-inch diameter pipe to the tubing can pass through rather than going up and over the crossmember.... very lil room and I want my system to be all mandrel-bent. I've saved up for a TKO five-speeds so everything needs to be done at one time. Oh, do you need a tubing kit? Visit Speedway Motors... they offer a 2.5-inch U-fit kit for a paltry $140.

 

Wow that is a great pic - thanks!

So in the research on the forums it seems the long tubes really don't fit well (Hooker, Hedman, or Flowtech)...seems like the shorties are the only viable option....Stan's or Sanderson's.

Had some prelim discussion with my buddy at Flatout Group - going to chat in the AM and get some advice - he's an ace at this stuff with sealing things up and hotrods. Will advise.

 

It seems that long tubes never fit in easily. You've got to have the right pair, and sometimes things need to be moved/trimmed around them. My long tubes fit okay, but I need to unbolt the engine and transmission and jack them up a little to get the headers on/off so themes more clearance between the engine and frame.

I plan on using shorty headers in the future. Much less fuss fitting them.

 

If I were you, if you want to do a cam swap, do it now. Since you will already have the intake, valve covers, rockers and pushrods out, save your self from having to tear it all apart again.

 

Yeah, that's a good point. Not a bad idea at all.

If I were you, I'd go for a high torque cam. That'll make it plenty of fun to drive around.

 

i would go with a high torqure cam to and the intake you said is the on to have i have that one too on my 390

 

I knew this was gonna snowball into something bigger!

OK that's a really good point - I'll be most of the way there, might as well do the cam and timing chain (never undertaken anything this in depth) since the timing chain/gears probably stock with the nylon. Hard to find much info but this Comp kit seems like it has everything I need with the 268H cam (supposedly like the RV cam), springs, seals, chain/gears, break in lube, and lifters. Looks like it would all still work for the 390 upgrade down the road too.
COMP Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kits K33-224-3 - SummitRacing.com

I just called Stan's and they want ~$300 to add ceramic coating to their p/n 222-Y $534 Tri-Y's!

Called a local place (near Summit in GA) that does lots of headers and they only want around $200, so I will go that route. Didn't plan on spending this much on headers....ack. But seems like the Stan's are really good and come with a ball/cup style collector for zero leaks.

I have a complete gasket set coming from Flatout Group - they recommended gaskets over Right Stuff or another make-a-gasket RTV, and promised a solid seal.