Hi everyone – Thanks for this great list! But I am stymied by a weird Cruise Control problem on a 2001 F150 Lariat SuperCrew with 5.4L V8 engine that I just purchased.
Long story short, the cruise control does not work. That is, when I push the “ON” button at any time while the engine is running (even when traveling at highway speed), the dashboard CRUISE light does not come on.

Thanks to all the previous postings, I ran the cruise control “self check” procedure. The first time I ran it, we failed with 3 flashes. So I checked the cutout switch on the brake master cylinder, and it was indeed leaking brake fluid. So I purchased a new switch and cable (Motorcraft SW-6350 Speed Sensor Switch Repair Kit) and installed them.

With the new cutout switch, we seem to pass the self test. That is, after pressing all the buttons in order , I see all the quick flashes of the CRUISE light (1. On (flash), 2. Resume
(flash) 3. Coast (flash), 4. Set/ accel (flash)). Then the accelerator pedal is pulled away from my foot.

However, unfortunately, the cruise control still does not work. That is, when I push the “ON” button at any time while the engine is running (even when traveling at highway speed), the dashboard CRUISE light does not come on.

Any suggestions on what the problem could be and what to look at next? I note that horn works, in case that’s useful info. Thanks!

 

I think by what you posted you know all fuses are good .Clock spring is OK . Do you have any codes ? Speed sensor , tps. ect. ? Some problems will disable cruse . You replaced switch and installed fused harness . You did ck fuses ?

 

Good point. I'll check all the fuses carefully and get back to the list. By "codes" do you mean the "check engine light codes" that can be accessed by turning the car ON/OFF/ON/OFF, etc.? I can try that, but the CHECK ENGINE light is not illuminated.

 

Check Fuses in Central Junction Box-- Fuse #5-15amp; #13-20amp; #15-5amp. Check Fuse #7-20amp in Battery Junction Box.

 

It may be a coinicedence but the brake pedal switch is included in a 'dual' knock-off action, as a safety precaution.
It may be out of adjustment, sluggesh or defective in some way.
The master cylinder pressure switch cuts power to the CC, where the brake pedal switch applies power, for a dual fail safety action.
Good luck.

 

Hi Bluegrass 7 - Can you please point me to the location of the brake pedal switch, and I'll check? Thanks!

 

Well yah it's under the dash up on the pedal arm.
You will see it.
It's an important switch because it signals for many different funtions.
.
It even signals to the data aquasition storage area if there should ever be an accident investigation to look at what the driver did just before and during
an accident event.
Takes special hardware and software to enter and retreive this kind of data.
Just a hint of some other things being done that you are not awhere of.
Good luck.

 

At the risk of over looking the obvious, but the cruise light shouldn't light anytime you press the "ON" button. It should only illuminate when you push the "SET" button after pressing the "ON" button and the vehicle speed is above ~30mph.

 

Actually, i totally appreciate this point, because it is not at all obvious. For all i know, the cruise actually works and I'm just dumb. I'll road test it Wednesday and get back to everyone. Maybe changing out the leaking master cylinder switch did the trick.

While I have everyone on the line, I have a related question. The replacement switch came with a new cable (Motorcraft SW-6350 Speed Sensor Switch Repair Kit), and it doesn't seem obvious that it has an in-line fuse. Should I plug the new cable into the fused cable that was installed in the recall or should i throw the recall cable away and just plug into the wiring harness? I don't want my truck to catch fire! Thanks

 

The new cable is there for a reason . The ones I have installed have a fuse holder looking part in them . They also have a tag saying non repairable , or something like that . I think it may have a fuse link or diode . Heck ,IDK , but it is there for a reason ,LOL .

 

[Sheepish grin] I'd like to thank everyone for their useful posts and quick replies. After fixing the leaking switch on the master cylinder, my Cruise Control is working. I just didn't realize that the CRUISE light doesn't come on until after you press ON and then the SET button. THANKS

 

Glad you figured it out ! The only stupid question is the one left unasked .

 

I have a similiar issue in that my cruise control will only intermittently pass the test and will intermittently work. The recall has been done and I do know to operate the system. Where do I go from here? Brake switches under dash?

 

If your able to catch it when it fails, what is the trouble code when you do the diagnostics?

 

When it has failed it would not give a light for the on button. I thought ok I am not doing it right and after a couple of tries it would work and all buttons pass. The cruise would work as well. No problems at all. I do not use it everyday so after not using it for a week or so I would try to turn it on and no go. So when I stopped I would run the check it would pass after the 2nd or third attempt and then it would work. I thought about the on/off button as a problem. What do you think? Why would the on/off button be intermittent? Or could it be the clock spring?