So I figured the oil cooler was leaking a little bit (littleoil in the coolant and some light blow by) so I figured I would take the truckto work and change the oil so that there would not be water sitting in thecrank case. The leak seemed to be very miner and slow at this time. Changed theoil and only a little water seemed to come out so no big deal. The truck wasrunning well and I replaced the ICP with a used one off of a 01 SD. On the wayhome which is a total of 20 miles the truck started to smoke a little at stoplights so as soon as I got home I checked the oil and guess what. The oil inthe crank case was white and way over filled. This is of course because about agallon of coolant had leaked into the crank case.


I dumped the coolant out last night and all the water/oilout of the crank case and put fresh oil into it. Today I flushed the oil againand filled it back up with fresh oil. There is no coolant in the truck and thedrain plug to the radiator is open right now. After 3 flushes the oil is mostlyclear but there is still a lot of white sludge inside of the valve covers.

 

Should have ran some seafoam in there while flushing it.

The water vapors will eventually burn off though, no worries.

As long as its not saturated.

There is always some water in the oil, its just natural in the winter time with condensation.

 

I added a can of seafoam and ran the motor for about 10 mins before dumping it the last time. There was a lot in there the first time. Just way to close of a call.

 

yeah, seafoam will break down the water.

it's a great product.

 

I am just worried that all that water may have hurt somthing in the high pressure oil system or damaged the bottom end.

 

I hate to be dense (no sense in changing now though) but did you fix the oil cooler leak? And why did you need to drain the coolant, just to be sure no more water got in while you were flushing things? Finally, how do we new guys monitor this in our own trucks to make sure it doesn't happen? Thanks.

 

you get the cooler core i sent you?

 

Yes i dumped the coolant to make sure no more water got into the crank case. I did not want water sitting inside of the crank case for even a few hours so i flushed the system.

And yes i got the oil cooler on friday and the O ring kid in the mail today. But now i have a showing on my house so i dont think it will be getting done this weekend.

 

Thanks, now I understand better. Any advice besides fixing a leaky cooler ASAP?

 

How many miles are on this cooler and why did you replace it for the rebuild.

If the oil cooler fails just prepare to suck. It has taken me 3 times to flush out most of the water from the crank case. (thats a lot of wasted money) I have been taking the oil cap off and letteing the truck run for about 5-10 mins at a time to help all the vapor vent as well. I think the hose that runs to the intake might be clogged up from all the blow by so i need to check that out too.

I need to take some time and try to find a good right up on how to replace the SOB with torque specs and any hints. Maybe if i can find some time to today i will get it changed out.

One big question. Does the oil pan need to be drained to change it?

 

i dont know miles.best i can tell the engine had been dusted on #4.
its a core i am building to someday replace my engine.it has 322000mi now and a fair amount of blowby.im trying to be prepared and not have to be inn a hurry someday when it truely needs attention.
no the crancase does not need empting.i pulled my cooler on mine to check my drainback valve. just drain coolant and be prepared to get wet.it will come out just hold your mouth right.

 

No need to drain the pan as long as the coolant is out.

Maybe I missed something but if the cooler fails you get oil in the water....The oil is under 40-80 PSI the water is 15 tops when its hot.

I think you have another problem somewhere.

Diesel Rod

 

BINGO!

Probably a hole in the front cover behind the water pump. That would be a near best-case scenario (even though it still requires the engine to be removed).
Worst case would be a crack/cavitation in a cylinder wall or a crack in the block or a head.

Good luck.

 

actually he is getting it both ways.oil in water and coolant in oil. I think coolant in oil when hot and shut down and oil in coolant when running. He has had a couple posts and its an ongoing issue. I hope he gets it fixed.He is fixing the truck up for his grandpa. Sucks when you try to do something nice for someone and you are blocked by stuff out of your hands.

 

Yeah this has to be it. With all the other issues i know have at least 30-40 hours into this SOB. We have fixed a lot of issue on the old girl and she has come a long way from stalling and not making it up hills but its getting out of hand. Time is my enemy and we are sitting at about $900 invested so far. This does not include 15/40 engine oil, gear oil, or antifreez cost.