85- 87 bronco tinkering
#1
85- 87 bronco tinkering
Hi fellas. im kev and i just was given a 85 ford bronco with a 87 efi block. i have a lot of work to do to it but in trying to take care of the most obvious things first. this is my first project and first ford so any help or advise is well appriciated. i have an issue with the blender lever. i can see it moving under the dash chanving the flap but the vents never turn off and i dont have much for defrosters at all. leaving for work gets a little daring in the morning sesnce i leave at 6. the other issue i have is the idle. its an 87 block but its not efi. it has a motor craft carb and a new manual chocke. wether its warm or cold the idle seams to high. when i put her in gear and drive it and **** through the gears, every time i push the clutch in the idle kicks a little higher, and when i come to a stop sign the idle comes up a lot like its cold. and yes i have turned the chock off once warmed up. but it still dose it. if i crack the throtle fast and a little hard it will come down but the next stop its high again. i was thinking maby the carb needs a cleaning. hope some one can give me some advice. if needed i can do a video with my phone so u guys under stand what im talking about. thanks fellas.
#2
Welcome aboard!
The lever for temperature control just moves the temperature blend door. There are vacuum motors that open/close other doors to direct air flow to defroster, dash vents, floor outlet. For safety, the default no-vacuum position is DEFROST.
Do you get much airflow out of any outlet, or does the fan just seem to make a lot of noise but little airflow?
Does this truck have AC (whether its working or not, all airflow from the fan goes through the AC evaporator under the hood before going back through the firewall into the cabin into the plenum where the heater core and blend door are).
Idle speed problems - With a manual choke, the automatic choke parts are usually pulled off so the old automatic choke bimetallic doesn't try to set the fast idle cam up and interfere. Has it been removed or otherwise disabled so it doesn't grab the steps on the fast-idle cam? Usually the throttle linkage is on one side of the carb, and the automatic choke parts and the fast-idle cam are on the other side.
The lever for temperature control just moves the temperature blend door. There are vacuum motors that open/close other doors to direct air flow to defroster, dash vents, floor outlet. For safety, the default no-vacuum position is DEFROST.
Do you get much airflow out of any outlet, or does the fan just seem to make a lot of noise but little airflow?
Does this truck have AC (whether its working or not, all airflow from the fan goes through the AC evaporator under the hood before going back through the firewall into the cabin into the plenum where the heater core and blend door are).
Idle speed problems - With a manual choke, the automatic choke parts are usually pulled off so the old automatic choke bimetallic doesn't try to set the fast idle cam up and interfere. Has it been removed or otherwise disabled so it doesn't grab the steps on the fast-idle cam? Usually the throttle linkage is on one side of the carb, and the automatic choke parts and the fast-idle cam are on the other side.
#3
85-87 bronco tinkering
the odd thing is the vents never turn off but the vac motor for the blender i can see and it dose work all the time. it moves when the selector is moved. how ever the vents in the dash never shut off. for now i have the vents closed and that seam to help a bit for now. as faw as the air flow is fantastic it will blow u right out of your seat.
the idle issue has not changed. i need to wait for a break in the weather. i can barly reach any thing with out a lader. a guy at work says he think thye carb mayh need to rebuilt so im thinking of maby buying a new one and not fartin with some one elses troubls. but i was thinking of using a little carb cleaner to clean it but i an done that befor either. just on my lawn mower. thanks for responding. hope u can help
the idle issue has not changed. i need to wait for a break in the weather. i can barly reach any thing with out a lader. a guy at work says he think thye carb mayh need to rebuilt so im thinking of maby buying a new one and not fartin with some one elses troubls. but i was thinking of using a little carb cleaner to clean it but i an done that befor either. just on my lawn mower. thanks for responding. hope u can help
#4
Hi there, welcome to the forums! I don't know much about the air flow stuff you got going on, my 78 only has 2 heater channels for floor vent or defrost...
For the carb, is the motorcraft a 2 barrel or 4 barrel? And do you know if it came with an auto choke and was converted to manual or if it came with a manual choke when someone put it on the motor?
A trick for getting to the engine on these big trucks is just to stand on the bumper, sometimes you can swing s leg over into the engine bay *when the motor is off of course* and find a part of the frame to stand on so you can reach the carb better. Maybe you could snap a few pictures of the carb you have on the motor for us so we can see what you are dealing with. Try to get a few of both sides and the linkages.
Unfortunately I don't have hardly any experience with heater channels and stuff so I cannot help there.
For the carb, is the motorcraft a 2 barrel or 4 barrel? And do you know if it came with an auto choke and was converted to manual or if it came with a manual choke when someone put it on the motor?
A trick for getting to the engine on these big trucks is just to stand on the bumper, sometimes you can swing s leg over into the engine bay *when the motor is off of course* and find a part of the frame to stand on so you can reach the carb better. Maybe you could snap a few pictures of the carb you have on the motor for us so we can see what you are dealing with. Try to get a few of both sides and the linkages.
Unfortunately I don't have hardly any experience with heater channels and stuff so I cannot help there.
#7
web page wont let me upload the picks but email me and ill email them to u. mines littleE8324@aol.com. thanks guys
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#10
#11
Alright got the pics here.
Alrighty, so that last picture where the cable inside the spring is messed up, It's the throttle cable am I correct? And the spring around it looks like a return spring. If that breaks, you won't have throttle pretty much... I would look into replacing it.
I will go back through the thread and read up on the problem (I kinda forgot )
EDIT: Man that's a pretty gruesome looking carb... You might want to either look at a rebuild or a whole replacement. You can take some carb cleaner and just spray the whole thing to try cleaning it up a little. It won't hurt anything. For the rising throttle issue That is normally having to do with the high idle screw. It should be on the bottom of the throttle. When the idle kicks up like that, if you can, check the choke plate at the top of the carb. If it is not open all the way then push it open to see if it helps. If it is wide open at operating temp, then it isn't the choke.
Pretty much while it's running if it kicks the idle up try playing with that high idle screw to see what happens. Make due with what ya got.
Alrighty, so that last picture where the cable inside the spring is messed up, It's the throttle cable am I correct? And the spring around it looks like a return spring. If that breaks, you won't have throttle pretty much... I would look into replacing it.
I will go back through the thread and read up on the problem (I kinda forgot )
EDIT: Man that's a pretty gruesome looking carb... You might want to either look at a rebuild or a whole replacement. You can take some carb cleaner and just spray the whole thing to try cleaning it up a little. It won't hurt anything. For the rising throttle issue That is normally having to do with the high idle screw. It should be on the bottom of the throttle. When the idle kicks up like that, if you can, check the choke plate at the top of the carb. If it is not open all the way then push it open to see if it helps. If it is wide open at operating temp, then it isn't the choke.
Pretty much while it's running if it kicks the idle up try playing with that high idle screw to see what happens. Make due with what ya got.
#12
thanks bro. i was leaning on buying a new carb this spring any ways but ya i got to make due with what i got till then. i got plans on replacing all the breaks and drums roters hoses and what ever else i can think of in the brakesl the throtle linkage is gona make in on their when i do the carb. i realy appriciate all the advice. if u got any thing on that heater trouble let me know or if u find some kind of diagram on how the ventalation system look and run let me know.
#13
No problem, glad I could help. Sorry I don't have any idea on what is wrong with the heater. All I can think of is that the vacuum lines might be broken but you mentioned that you can see the door open and close. My other thought was that maybe something is obstructing the door so it cannot move all the way to where it needs to go.
#14
Oh man! A picture IS worth a thousand words! (thanks to GJ for posting the pics)
Don't bother with the carb, spend $35 - 40 for a new accelerator cable!
It's a disaster. Its got a sag in the middle of the spring area where its supposed to be straight, core wires have broken all over and caught up in the spring. No wonder the idle is all over the place!
Don't bother with the carb, spend $35 - 40 for a new accelerator cable!
It's a disaster. Its got a sag in the middle of the spring area where its supposed to be straight, core wires have broken all over and caught up in the spring. No wonder the idle is all over the place!
#15
Oh man! A picture IS worth a thousand words! (thanks to GJ for posting the pics)
Don't bother with the carb, spend $35 - 40 for a new accelerator cable!
It's a disaster. Its got a sag in the middle of the spring area where its supposed to be straight, core wires have broken all over and caught up in the spring. No wonder the idle is all over the place!
Don't bother with the carb, spend $35 - 40 for a new accelerator cable!
It's a disaster. Its got a sag in the middle of the spring area where its supposed to be straight, core wires have broken all over and caught up in the spring. No wonder the idle is all over the place!