I'll have to keep this one in the ol' memory banks. What brand and part number Explorer springs did you use?

 

holy cow I recommend this conversion. 91 explorer MC with booster. after a bench bleed and bleeding the lines 3 timel. theyre the best brakes ive ever had. stops ona dime and in a straight line and doesn't lock up with a firm pedal that you can feather with your toe. love it

 

not too many updates worth wild. I had to drive her as a daily driver for a few days and though it was 90 plus degrees I enjoyed it non the less.
im making slow work on sanding and prepping the new 67 grille I plan to swop in. the present 67 grille as u can see in pics has a significant dent that for the life of me I cant take out.
im planning to lower the front another inch or two, as well as the rear via just shackles.
im sitting on an 88 roller 302 im again making slow work of building. im sitting on the cash that was planned for parts for the 302 but I have a built 351w im dyeing to buy but I just cant find the time to go and check it out all the while contemplating if I should buy it at all and just finish the 302. grrrrr 1st world problems. lol
next big project out of many that's needing done on my truck. is tackling the rust on the pass. door and dents in the bed.
the parts list Is never ending ofcourse.
ive contemplated selling the truck but I just cant do that till shes atleast more complete. ergo new engine, role pan, floor shifter, carpet and at best rebuilding a t5 ive got sitting in my garage.

 

 

 

A little write up I did on the MC/ booster setup I chose.

This is for those of you who wish to upgrade your braking power in your 57-72 f-series pickups. for under a $100. interested?
Good, this is a simple enough upgrade that does NOT require many modifications, if any.
(73-79 with an angled brake rod)



In this write up i will be using:
A early 90s explorer master cylinder(MC): $30

A new universal brake booster, single or dual diaphragm: $25-50


A NON angled or cantilever booster bracket:$20
Non cantilever type:

Cantilever type:

Last but not least a universal adjustable brake push rod: $20

For manual brake application:

And an OPTIONAL adjustable proportioning valve for those of u who are running front disc brakes on your orginal drum brake valve: $30

Just for estetic reasons here are 3 possible modifications that u might have to make to mate these 4 parts togeather.
1st: on the MC you might have to widen the bolt holes to fit over the brake boosters thicker bolts. this can be accomplished by a large drill bit or a large file. both tools are cheap and your local harbor freight or equivalant.
2nd: you mignt have to drill 2 extra wholes in your universal booster bracket to mount the brackets up using your original 4 fire wall bolts. (this is not needed if u have the oem original booster brackets)
3rd: this isnt a "modification" neccisarly. but there is a bolt and nut at the front of your booster (MC side). that will need loosening till its extended out. then tightened. i personily tool the bolt nd fround a longer rounded end bolt of the same thread and installed it. this is most likely needed because your MC may have a deeper reciever.
Some other possible but unlikly modifications:
*modify the adjustable brake push rod to fit snug
*drill another whole in your brake pedal so the brake rod is aligned right.
Now the optional proportioning valve. its purpose is to be spliced in the rear brake line, if u are running the block valve with front disc brakes. so u can reduce the pressure to your rear drum brakes if u see fit. as the rear drums have a tendancy to lock up sooner then the front disc. (not needed if u have all 4 wheel disc or all 4 wheel drums)
On each part comes all the nuts, fittings, and correct threads to bolt these up.
here are the links to the parts on ebay:
MC
https://www.ebay.com/itm/261873730837
booster
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301939900687
bracket
https://www.ebay.com/itm/391061427433
brake rod
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182129088608
valve
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321591870033

 

well I wont be working on anything big with the pickup any time soon. I broke my leg about 2 months ago and as u can imagine I havnt been able to work. ergo no truck budget. I should be back on my feet in a months time. scroll down if u wanna see what a shattered fibula looks like.

 

how did that happen?

 

hope its healing nicely,, always great pics too

 

Ouch those pics give me the hebegebies. hope you heal well.

 

3X. Heal well. Do what the Doc says.

 

ouch. hope you have a fast recovery

 

thx guys, so far I've had a surprisingly fast and pain free recovery. I guess if you gotta brake a bone in your leg its the bone to break. my foot and ankle feelts good in my cast, it feels strong. so here in a few days when I get the cast off, which I cant wait for lol. I'm going to start the physical therapy on the ankle. never thought id be so excited to walk again lol
thx for all the kind words fellas

 

hey guys, legs healed... ankle is still a little touchy... certain muscles in it are still not as strong as before.


truck is down for the count right now. im chasing a gremlin I guess. all of a sudden my distributor decided not to do its job. or so I thought, after testing 4 coils and im on my second distributor. theres still zero spark to my spark plugs.


but ill figure it out.


my 88 roller engine Is still incomplete. im about $400 in parts away from assembly.


ill post some pics maybe here soon.

 

Glad to see your back to better(almost). Those dang gremlins. I think your truck is upset at you for hurting your leg.