Upgrades and Mods
#1
Upgrades and Mods
Hey Guys
I've a friend who has a 1997 F250 7.3. He's interested in some mods to the air, fuel and oil systems. I have two 99 PSD and the only mods I have found are the CCV and the 6637 that would work on the "97"
What do you recommend and are there any write-ups?
Thanks
Jeff
I've a friend who has a 1997 F250 7.3. He's interested in some mods to the air, fuel and oil systems. I have two 99 PSD and the only mods I have found are the CCV and the 6637 that would work on the "97"
What do you recommend and are there any write-ups?
Thanks
Jeff
#2
Well depending on budget he can purchase kits for a lot of the upgrades. Or he can piece them together other ways to save some dough.
The 6637 is the best intake IMO. Good filtration, good airflow, and good price.
If he doesnt have an aftermarket exhaust system I would recommend he at LEAST gets a 3" downpipe, but the best is a 3" dp to 4" straight pipe. All depends on sound you want, your budget, and the smog requirements of the area you live in.
The stock oil system is fine (HPOP) if he plans on keeping his stock injectors.
If he plans on upgrading then get the T500 and you'll be just fine.
Also, unless he plans on upgrading injectors the stock mechanical fuel pump is fine...but has lots of leak potential and can be a PITA.
Overall if he just wants to 'wake up the truck' a bit and not go crazy on power.
The way I would do it is:
6637 intake
3" dp to 4" out the right rear
T500 HPOP
TS 6 position chip w/custom tunes
Stage 1s from Jim Rosewood
Electric Fuel system
Intercooler
That would give him more power in a safe and reliable way without having to get crazy with a new turbo etc.
There are other small mods that would help like the CCV to avoid blowby if he adds the intercooler.
Also hutch/harpoon mod for the fuel filler necks helps when filling up.
Lots of other little things. Just depends on what he wants.
The 6637 is the best intake IMO. Good filtration, good airflow, and good price.
If he doesnt have an aftermarket exhaust system I would recommend he at LEAST gets a 3" downpipe, but the best is a 3" dp to 4" straight pipe. All depends on sound you want, your budget, and the smog requirements of the area you live in.
The stock oil system is fine (HPOP) if he plans on keeping his stock injectors.
If he plans on upgrading then get the T500 and you'll be just fine.
Also, unless he plans on upgrading injectors the stock mechanical fuel pump is fine...but has lots of leak potential and can be a PITA.
Overall if he just wants to 'wake up the truck' a bit and not go crazy on power.
The way I would do it is:
6637 intake
3" dp to 4" out the right rear
T500 HPOP
TS 6 position chip w/custom tunes
Stage 1s from Jim Rosewood
Electric Fuel system
Intercooler
That would give him more power in a safe and reliable way without having to get crazy with a new turbo etc.
There are other small mods that would help like the CCV to avoid blowby if he adds the intercooler.
Also hutch/harpoon mod for the fuel filler necks helps when filling up.
Lots of other little things. Just depends on what he wants.
#4
#5
Thanks for the replies.
1. Alex: Is there a write-up on installing the Hutch/Harpoon mod? Is there any difference between the 99-2003 Hutch/Harpoon mod? His truck has the mechanical pump and dual tanks. Also tell me more about the electric fuel system.
2. Jcart: What is the Power Pedal Mod?
Thanks Guys
1. Alex: Is there a write-up on installing the Hutch/Harpoon mod? Is there any difference between the 99-2003 Hutch/Harpoon mod? His truck has the mechanical pump and dual tanks. Also tell me more about the electric fuel system.
2. Jcart: What is the Power Pedal Mod?
Thanks Guys
#6
Reliability stuff first...
If it's an auto, transmission temperature gage and an extra transmission cooler in-line after the in-radiator cooler.
Exhaust gas temperature gage, and an aftermarket round downpipe.
Gages tell when it's time to back off. Round downpipe will give your buddy's truck better off-idle throttle response even without any other mods, and help keep EGTs down. Transmission cooler helps the transmission live longer.
I would do these along with a 6637 filter first, will help the longevity of the truck.
If you're going to add more fuel (FPR shim, chip, injectors...), then add intercooler to keep EGTs down... but you still want the gage first.
After replacing the squashed factory downpipe, the exhaust system is rather free-flowing. The catalytic converter is VERY open, so I doubt you get much practical benefit from gutting or deleting it. If funds-limited and exhaust is in good shape, I would stay stock.
Another item to look at is a solenoid set for the headlights. LMC has one with plug-in connectors, or you can rig your own. Idea is that the headlight and high-beam switches then only switch small current to operate the solenoids instead of the high current to the headlights. Less chance of burning out the headlight switches, especially if you use higher-power bulbs.
I'm not sure what real benefit you get from the CCV mod; a diesel happily burns small amounts of oil in the intake charge.
My $0.02.
Exhaust gas temperature gage, and an aftermarket round downpipe.
Gages tell when it's time to back off. Round downpipe will give your buddy's truck better off-idle throttle response even without any other mods, and help keep EGTs down. Transmission cooler helps the transmission live longer.
I would do these along with a 6637 filter first, will help the longevity of the truck.
If you're going to add more fuel (FPR shim, chip, injectors...), then add intercooler to keep EGTs down... but you still want the gage first.
After replacing the squashed factory downpipe, the exhaust system is rather free-flowing. The catalytic converter is VERY open, so I doubt you get much practical benefit from gutting or deleting it. If funds-limited and exhaust is in good shape, I would stay stock.
Another item to look at is a solenoid set for the headlights. LMC has one with plug-in connectors, or you can rig your own. Idea is that the headlight and high-beam switches then only switch small current to operate the solenoids instead of the high current to the headlights. Less chance of burning out the headlight switches, especially if you use higher-power bulbs.
I'm not sure what real benefit you get from the CCV mod; a diesel happily burns small amounts of oil in the intake charge.
My $0.02.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks for the replies.
1. Alex: Is there a write-up on installing the Hutch/Harpoon mod? Is there any difference between the 99-2003 Hutch/Harpoon mod? His truck has the mechanical pump and dual tanks. Also tell me more about the electric fuel system.
2. Jcart: What is the Power Pedal Mod?
Thanks Guys
1. Alex: Is there a write-up on installing the Hutch/Harpoon mod? Is there any difference between the 99-2003 Hutch/Harpoon mod? His truck has the mechanical pump and dual tanks. Also tell me more about the electric fuel system.
2. Jcart: What is the Power Pedal Mod?
Thanks Guys
Here is the Guzzle write-up for the hutch mod.
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
I believe on his website there is a link for the Harpoon mod as well. Basically they just allow the air to escape/flow better on fillups allowing you to maximize your tank space.
If it isnt on Guzzle's site then check out. RosewoodDieselshop.com
Found the link! http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/DZ...k_vent_mod.htm
I think on his DZLJIM section he has the writeups as well. I may be wrong as he has changed his website a bit.
As for the electric fuel... I will be following Tims writeup when I do mine. As well as a few parts from other writeups. If you use the 'search forum' in our section for "e-fuel" or "electric fuel" you will find many threads relating to the topic.
Here is Tim's Intercooler/electric fuel writeup.
Tims I/C Page example
#9
I am unsure how our trucks hutch/harpoon would differ from the SDs. I cant imagine its too different..
Oh and TJ finally finished his writeup for E-fuel!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-compelte.html
And another popular E-fuel thread.
Kings!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...gs-e-fuel.html
Oh and TJ finally finished his writeup for E-fuel!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-compelte.html
And another popular E-fuel thread.
Kings!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...gs-e-fuel.html
#10
Oh and the "power pedal mod" or as I know it the "hotfoot mod"
Its basically just rearranging the two sensors on the accelerator pedal mount so they engage 'faster' or at a less depressed position.
Aka you dont have to push the pedal as far down for the truck to start fueling.
Ill see if I can find the writeup/threads discussing that.
If all else fails looking around on Jim Rosewood's website and on Guzzle's website you will find a lot of little things you can do.
Midnight mods is another (I believe that website is owned/operated or at least contributed to by a memeber of here Talyn)
Its basically just rearranging the two sensors on the accelerator pedal mount so they engage 'faster' or at a less depressed position.
Aka you dont have to push the pedal as far down for the truck to start fueling.
Ill see if I can find the writeup/threads discussing that.
If all else fails looking around on Jim Rosewood's website and on Guzzle's website you will find a lot of little things you can do.
Midnight mods is another (I believe that website is owned/operated or at least contributed to by a memeber of here Talyn)
#11
Oh and the "power pedal mod" or as I know it the "hotfoot mod"
Its basically just rearranging the two sensors on the accelerator pedal mount so they engage 'faster' or at a less depressed position.
Aka you dont have to push the pedal as far down for the truck to start fueling.
Ill see if I can find the writeup/threads discussing that.
If all else fails looking around on Jim Rosewood's website and on Guzzle's website you will find a lot of little things you can do.
Midnight mods is another (I believe that website is owned/operated or at least contributed to by a memeber of here Talyn)
Its basically just rearranging the two sensors on the accelerator pedal mount so they engage 'faster' or at a less depressed position.
Aka you dont have to push the pedal as far down for the truck to start fueling.
Ill see if I can find the writeup/threads discussing that.
If all else fails looking around on Jim Rosewood's website and on Guzzle's website you will find a lot of little things you can do.
Midnight mods is another (I believe that website is owned/operated or at least contributed to by a memeber of here Talyn)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-makomark.html
#12
What kind of power range is your buddy wanting? He can just do a chip, intake, exhaust, and gauges, but he will only be around 250hp at best. SDs are usually around 300hp w/ the same mods due to their larger capacity injectors, factory intercooler, and larger factory HPOP.
If he wants to get to 300-350hp, stage 1 injectors are good for 320-350hp w/ the stock turbo, but can get hot when towing heavy. Adding an intercooler is highly recommended with any injector upgrades, especially if the truck will be towing. The stock HPOP will not be able to provide enough oil to supply stage 1's at full power, so an upgrade there would be a good idea also. Stage 1's, stock SD intercooler, electric fuel system, chip, intake, exhaust, and T500 HPOP have proven capable of 350hp w/ the stock turbo if the turbo is in good shape and there are no boost or exhaust leaks.
To get much over 350hp, he will need to upgrade the turbo. At that point, we need to talk more about how he uses the truck, how much power he wants, and how he wants the truck to drive.
None of this takes into account transmission upgrades. If he has an auto, he needs to do some work to help the transmission live such as a better trans cooler, maybe a valve body upgrade, and torque convertor upgrade. For the most reliability, a fully built transmission from BTS, John Wood, Twisted Diesel, or RacerX would be awesome, but costly.
If he has a 5 speed transmission, a clutch upgrade will be needed depending on power level. A stock replacement clutch should be ok if no injector upgrades are done. Above that, he needs to look into a better clutch. A lot of us here use Valair clutches, including myself. There are other options, but none that I can recommend in good conscience. What clutch he uses will again depend on power level and how the truck will be used.
If he wants to get to 300-350hp, stage 1 injectors are good for 320-350hp w/ the stock turbo, but can get hot when towing heavy. Adding an intercooler is highly recommended with any injector upgrades, especially if the truck will be towing. The stock HPOP will not be able to provide enough oil to supply stage 1's at full power, so an upgrade there would be a good idea also. Stage 1's, stock SD intercooler, electric fuel system, chip, intake, exhaust, and T500 HPOP have proven capable of 350hp w/ the stock turbo if the turbo is in good shape and there are no boost or exhaust leaks.
To get much over 350hp, he will need to upgrade the turbo. At that point, we need to talk more about how he uses the truck, how much power he wants, and how he wants the truck to drive.
None of this takes into account transmission upgrades. If he has an auto, he needs to do some work to help the transmission live such as a better trans cooler, maybe a valve body upgrade, and torque convertor upgrade. For the most reliability, a fully built transmission from BTS, John Wood, Twisted Diesel, or RacerX would be awesome, but costly.
If he has a 5 speed transmission, a clutch upgrade will be needed depending on power level. A stock replacement clutch should be ok if no injector upgrades are done. Above that, he needs to look into a better clutch. A lot of us here use Valair clutches, including myself. There are other options, but none that I can recommend in good conscience. What clutch he uses will again depend on power level and how the truck will be used.
#13
WOW! you guys came thru.......Thanks for all the links. I'll get them printed out and then sit with my buddy to see what he and his pocket book want to accomplish first.
I think the 6637 air filter mod and the CCV mod will be first with a good cleaning of his engine bay. Thanks Again for the help with the 97 mods.
Jeff
I think the 6637 air filter mod and the CCV mod will be first with a good cleaning of his engine bay. Thanks Again for the help with the 97 mods.
Jeff
#14
There are lots of free/budget mods for the OBS trucks. For my grand fathers truck build we have done The 6637 filter kit, CCV mod, Down pipe/cat delete pipes, and DP tuner 40 hp tune. I am still waiting on the ECU from DP however just the supporting mods have made a huge change. The truck is way more responsive and builds power much lower in the power band. I have also noticed she does not down shift as often to pull hills.
I recomend the following in this order.
The 6637 filter. Better air flow and cleaner air gives you better response and more protection.
3 inch down pipe and cat delete. Lowers EGT's and improves turbo response.
Fuel shim/BB mod. This is basicly a free mod but you should check your fuel pressure before and after to make sure its needed.
CCV mod. Keeps all the blow by crap from entering the turbo and engine. (May leave small oil stains where you park your truck)
TUNE: (These trucks respond very well to tunes like most diesels) For 90 bucks you can have the ECU flashed and it will make one hell of a diffrence. (Will need EGT Gauge if you go over 40hp tune or tow heavy)
If you are doing the work your self all of the above mods can be done for $300 or less and will wake a stock truck up. You will also pick up some MPG as well.
I recomend the following in this order.
The 6637 filter. Better air flow and cleaner air gives you better response and more protection.
3 inch down pipe and cat delete. Lowers EGT's and improves turbo response.
Fuel shim/BB mod. This is basicly a free mod but you should check your fuel pressure before and after to make sure its needed.
CCV mod. Keeps all the blow by crap from entering the turbo and engine. (May leave small oil stains where you park your truck)
TUNE: (These trucks respond very well to tunes like most diesels) For 90 bucks you can have the ECU flashed and it will make one hell of a diffrence. (Will need EGT Gauge if you go over 40hp tune or tow heavy)
If you are doing the work your self all of the above mods can be done for $300 or less and will wake a stock truck up. You will also pick up some MPG as well.
#15