Okay after taking my bed apart last night I ordered a new bed today from Hot Rod's Classic Truck Parts. They knocked down the crating fee and found me a good rate on the freight to California. I just could not take messing around with my current bed and second guessing myself.... I did and now it's over. Plan to kiss my wife on the cheek and say please forgive me because I just could not help myself.... she will say "Whatever"

 

Congratulations! It is a long way off, but make sure you finish the wood on both sides before you install it. I suggest an oil finish, many coats. It won't flake or peel and will protect the wood. You can count on more coats in the future, especially on the top where it gets more sun and moisture.

 

Thanks for the tip. I was going to try some marine varnish also...

 

Hey Isaiah,
What bed did you get? The only thing I'd do different on our
bed wood kit is get the stainless steel strips - not powder coat.
Powder coat scratches way too easily.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Horizontal marine varnish and continuous UV do not make a good combination. If you are going to garage the truck or have a tonneau, you are ok with varnish. Otherwise varnish at least 2 coats/year. I play with boats with plenty of brightwork quite a bit. Thoroughly sealing all surfaces prior to installation is right on. Also, thin your first coat a lot. A minimum of 25%. On boats starting with unfinished wood I put on 10 coats and then 2 coats/year after that. This is for 6 months exposure per year. Living in Maine, they are covered 6 months of the year.
Best of luck with varnish if the truck is outside year round in sunny California!

 

I agree with Bill, no film type coating can expand and contract as much as wood does, so it will soon check, moisture will then penetrate and lift the finish. The only repair is to totally sand off the finish and refinish. Once the film coating has been used, there is no going back. I recommend using a good quality penetrating/polymerizing oil like pure tung oil or boiled linseed oil. Make sure it says 100% pure tung oil, NOT tung oil finish which is nothing more than diluted urethane varnish with a small amount of tung oil (~5% or less) added just so they can call it that. 100% tung oil is available from suppliers for fine woodworking like Woodcraft, Wood Workers Supply, or Rocklers. it's not cheap, but a small amount goes a long ways if the wood is well sanded first, a couple quarts should be enough. Sand the raw wood thoroughly with a palm sander with 100, then 220, then 400 grit sandpaper on all surfaces especially the end grain, before finishing. Thin the first coat 50% with mineral spirits and flood the surface using a 3M green scrub pad as applicator until the wood no longer soaks it in. Allow to sit for an hour then scrub off all the excess with microfiber cloths until the surface feels dry not sticky. Allow to dry for 24 hrs before applying a second coat at full strength using the green pad to scrub it in with the grain until it no longer soaks in. Again allow to sit for an hour and rub off any left on the surface with clean cloths until completely dry. Do NOT leave any on the surface, it will never dry, but will get gummy and attract dust and dirt. After 24 to 48 hrs apply a 3rd coat in the same manner, using a pad of 600 grit sandpaper as an applicator this time. If you find any sticky areas after 48 hrs, dampen a clean piece of 600 grit with the oil, and scrub the sticky area. Scrub off the excess very thoroughly after 15 minutes. The wood can be waxed with a good clear paste wax like Renaissance or Simonize paste wax in the yellow can. Apply a fresh coat of oil once a year or if the surface starts looking dry, no need to sand first. Oil finish will give the wood a rich soft glow, not a wet look. Don't use a stain on the wood! The color will naturally darken and richen with age. If you must color it, ask me how to do it right with the right products, but it is much better to use the right wood in the first place than to try to make a different wood look like something else.

 

Ben I bought the basic bed kit because I was not sure about the wood I wanted. I needed the box so I could keep the project moving forward. I am glad I posted because all this great info on the wood is what I needed to know. Bed is coming from Hot Rod's Classic Truck Parts for 1948 - 1956 Ford Trucks.... They reduced my crating fee and got me great freight out to California.

 

Info does not get any better than this. I am printing this out as my way forward. Thanks!!!

 

I have a masters degree with minor in wood design and am an avid woodworker.

 

Good decision buying from Rodney, great people to deal with. I bought my 51 bed from them 8 yrs. ago, bed, wood kit and stainless strips and more than satisfied, Garry

 

GT40,
Your profile says " Central California Coast". Where is that? I'm just east of Stockton and also working on a new bed and box for a '48 F-1. Have been for 8 years and owned it since '62. If possible I would like to keep in touch and see how you are doing with the same project.

Jim

 

I got my new bed from Rod this past weekend. I just got in on for a fit test and it is going to be great. I would up load some pictures but I trying to us photobucket and it is not working right.

 

You can use Accoya, a wood that will not move and will outlast most of us. It is guaranteed for 50 years of exterior use and is non toxic. It is acetylated wood modification, which is a process that was actually invented many years ago but was too expensive to make it practical. Now it is being made and is much more reasonable. It is hard to find, but in the northwest I have heard that Lowes sells a brand of acetylated wood (not called Accoya). I can get it here in Houston and have been using it on anything I make for outdoors and for a substrate that virtually will not expand or contract. I am going to use it when I do the next woodie, whether it is my truck or a clients. I will also use it for my bed. It really doesn't even need a finish, but I will oil it. Here is a picture of a Japanese soaking tub that I made for a client. It is made of 6/4 Accoya and he has filled it many times with hot water and soaked - sometimes with a girlfriend. No pics of her.

 

I am in Lompoc CA. I retired at Vandenberg AFB which is here. Always great to meet new people.

 

I've known a few people who lived in Lompoc. Not by choice and you probably wouldn't want to meet them!