Redline 5w20 is the subject oil here for a 10,250 mile OCI, following a different owner who had
her oil changes done at Valvoline lube shop.

Iron and copper levels may be explained by a few sessions of training someone to drive a stick
where the thing got some bad bucking action a few times. Also, I have done quite a few hard
runs up to 6000 rpm.

But the disturbing thing is TBN level. What could have caused it to go so low?

I think 5000 mile recommendation is too conservative, but definitely not going 10,000 again.
Also don't want to keep paying for these reports. Maybe 7500 miles?

 

Well the TBN says this oil certainly shouldn't be run longer in this engine, under the conditions you had during this OCI.

If this UOA was on the 2001 Ranger 2.3L DOHC engine, it looks from the 100 C viscosity reading, that you were using a 5W-30, instead of the specified 5W-20 viscosity, or the oil has thickened up????

If you note that their universal averages are from about 5400 miles & you went about double that, so divide your readings by 2 & the only one thats a little above average is iron.

So, since chrome & lead were low, then taking the copper & iron readings into consideration, to me, it might indicate that most of the wear may have been from the top end valve train???? Iron from the cam, copper from the valve guides?????

As to the base number depletion, what service grade was this oil, SL, SM, SN & what kind of drive cycle, over what period of time up in Metro Detroit????

Seeing as how the UOA doesn't show any water, or antifreeze, it suggests the PCV system is working well & the engine gaskets are tight.

The Redline Mg recipe number looks a little low at 15, when the average is 75 & we don't know what recipe moly & other ads are in this formula, so TBN retention may be a little wimpy for extended OCI's, with this recipe????

Yup, because of the low TBN #, I'd cut back on the mileage, maybe as Blackstone recommended, or not more than 7K under the same driving conditions & maybe consider trying the specified 5W-20 viscosity & see how wear goes.

Air, oil, & fuel filtration looks good from the insolubles % number, so it would be interesting to know what air, oil & fuel filters were you using during this OCI????

BTW, thanks for posting your UOA.

 

The average OCI recommendation these days is 7500miles, and the monitor on my 2010 Honda comes out close to that. Most GM cars with monitors also go off at similar mileage, so that is a good safe OCI for me. The BMW went longer, but not with a GF-rated oil, but API/ACEA gas/diesel "fleet" oils with a higher starting TBN. Also, how much oil does that engine hold, 4qt? The engines ive had that have been "easy" on oil held at least six.

 

Sorry about the imcomplete post. This is Redline 5w20 and Ford specifies 5w20.

K&N oil filter. Pretty sure I am running the Fram air filter with the oiled paper element.


Redline site says this oil is about 9 cst and the UOA is at 11!

So as I thought cut the numbers in half for a rough compare to doing two 5K OCIs.

Nothing terrible here. Just run too long. I will do another UOA on the fresh batch of Redline 5w20, when should I do it? 5K , 6K, 7K?

 

OK, good feedabck, so it began life as a 5w-20 & thickened up to a 30wt in 10K+ miles, with the TBN used up.

Since we don't know the TBN depletion slope on this recipe lube, nor what the drive cycle might be like on your next OCI, to be conservative stick with what Blackstone recommends & see how it goes on the next drive cycle.

On the other hand, while the TBN was used up & the 20wt oil had begun to thicken into 30wt range, wear wasn't out of sight, just that you didn't want to run this recipe any longer, so if the drive cycle doesn't get any more severe during the next cycle, dropping back to 7500 miles on the next OCI as you suggested, probably isn't out of reason, given the results of your posted UOA.

More thoughts for pondering, will be interesting to hear what you do & how it goes.

 

I'll get that next UOA sometime next March or April and post it here.

I think the most important consideration at this time is the cam chains. Want the best lube for them, whcih is one reason I ran Redline.

We'll see next UOA.

Oh, BTW, I think that maybe just go like I did with the F150 and switch totally to the mechanical gauge and ground the dummy to keep the gauge light off. Anything else is too much hassle and I have hassled with it enough.

Thanks

 

If you are going to do that you might as well just use a cheaper synthetic oil like Pennzoil Platinum or something similar and a regular Motorcraft filter and change at 5k miles. Spending the money on the Redline and K&N filter looks like a waste to me, especially when you factor in the UOA with TBN costs.

 

I agree with DKF. I have that engine in my wife's 2005 Escape. I run the Motorcraft syn blend 5W20 and Motorcraft filter and change between 3k and 5k miles depending on how she drives it and time of year. $25.00 buys the oil and filter and I just don't worry about it. When I look in oil fill hole it is spotlessly clean and cam lobes look like new.

Now on my 2011 Ranger with the 4.0V6 SOCH, I have settled on Valvoline Synpower 5W30 and Motorcraft filter at 5K changes. Oil is $25 and $4 for filter at walwart and I feel good about it. The fast lube places are over $30 with fees and use cheapest stuff they can buy.

 

This one ran pretty much spotless on Valvoline oil shop changes. Nonetheless I plan to continue using Redline for now. My objective is not to save money. We'll see how the next analysis looks at 6000 miles and take if from there. Nothing terrible happened here, metals were not that high, TBN is typically 1-2 points lower at Blackstone than other labs.

 

I just discovered my crankcase is pressurized when I pulled the oil fill cap with the engine running and the engine got louder and the air/gas mix coming out the oil fill hole was pretty substantial, about like you would feel if you put your hand in front of the tailpipe. It's a wonder I didn't blow out some seals. I would guess it is the PCV valve and am taking it into the shop Friday to get that replaced (don't laugh, the standard procedure to change this PCV valve is to pull the intake manifold). Anyway, could this have affected my oil, perhaps be responsible for the low TBN?

 

It sure could affect TBN, as the crankcase blow by, along with collected condensation moisture isn't being properly purged & all that gook can cause gum varnish & sludge build up!!!!!.

Any problems with gaskets weeping/leaking oil, or the oil dipstick unseating/lifting, or blowing out????

Ford schedules the PCV valve due for replacement around 100K miles & with the problems others have reported on the 4banger, while they're in there I'd also have its rubber connecting elbo replaced too, as they've been reported to develop cracks & leak, or get soft & kink.

EDIT: The Dealer should be able to put a gauge in place of the oil fill cap & measure crank case pressure & if he does, measure it before & after the PCV service is done, to get an indication of cyl blow-by from wear, or stuck piston rings & if a compression test is necessary to see which cyl may be the culprit.

If you have a vacuum gauge, you could hook it up & get a general idea how ring sealing goes.
Here is a link with moving vacuum gauge scenario graphics that might be helpful. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

 

No weeping gaskets that I am aware of, dipstick not blowing up in it's tube. Not going to drive it anymore until fixed though. Interesting thing, the analysis showed no fuel no water no antifreeze.

I tested for a head gasket leak by flame under a spoon with a couple drops of oil, no crackle so no water. Started it up and ran it for a couple minutes cold and the radiator hoses did not pressurize, so I can rule out head gasket. I don't think stuck rings again no fuel in oil and it is pretty powerful engine, though a compression test could tell more. Engine runs clean as oil blotters were spotless and no ring right up to 10,000 miles. But somehow that valve is stuck. I removed the intake resonator and can get my hands on the valve but can't remove it as there is a plastic clip holding it to the mount and I cannot lever that clip off. Maybe get it with the nippers and cut thru then pry off.

I don't know if my vacuum gauge will provide pressure readings, maybe a spare oil pressure gauge. Can put on dipstick tube.

Oh, on a hot rodder site, a guy had pressurized crank case and after he fixed it his oil pressure ran about 10 psi lower. I could see the connection as the oil circuit does end in the crankcase so back pressure could come into play, and on the relief valve too. May solve two problems in one as my pressure is rather too high.

Thanks

 

I was suggesting using the vacuum gauge connected to a vacuum line & viewing the various scenarios for hints.

My vacuum gauge will also read positive pressure, so if yours will, you could remove the dipstick, connect a piece of tubing between it & the vacuum gauge & have a look at crank case positive pressure.

 

Problem now is wife not happy that I work on truck on Thanksgiving day. May yet try vacuum hose and also if I can pull hose off then can twist valve and maybe pull it out, or break it--haha. Either way probably going to shop. Surprised I can get my hand on it, yet the google searches show either through wheel well or pull intake manifold.

 

Well, I can't find the vacuum gauge, but did find some neat stuff I forgot I had during the search. Anyways, I tested it with a balloon! Pulled the fresh air inlet line (intake to valve cover) off the intake and put a balloon over it. I got suction. Pulled the hose off at the valve cover and also got suction. Pulled the oil cap off and stretched the balloon over it. Nothing, neither suction nor pressure. I think there is nothing wrong. Here is my theory:

My oil cap is about 1.5 inches over the cam lobes. At idle they are whipping around at about 400 rpm and so will be throwing a lot of oil and making turbulent air which is huffing in and out the oil fill hole (and making a blow across a coke bottle noise) only because it is an extra space for it to go. Still would not hurt to check that PVC valve but it can wait for a regularly scheduled maintenance stop at the repair shop.

I wondered why the Mountaineer didn't make the noise or have the puffing out the fill hole. Well I looked at it and the filler neck is about 8 inches long and canted off the end of the valve cover, so away from the cam lobes and their air whipping action.

Additionally, looking down the hole where my fresh air hose connects to the valve cover, I saw a plate separating that from the camshaft, so no huffing.

Now I can have a happy thanksgiving and get that Ranger out to row it through the gears.